Yanmar starter motor

[loa]

I had problems with my starting the Yanmar 3GM30 when it was needed and finished up damaging the starter motor. The starting problem was resolved by rebuilding the head, repairing the damage to the head and block faces, changing the head gasket, regrinding the valves, changing the valve seals, changing the braided fuel pip , the secondary fuel filter strainer assembly and using some Isuzu washers instead of the copper ones, servicing the injectors and retiming the fuel injection
The starter motor has proved a little more problematic. It turns the motor over, under decompression, but once the levers are pushed back the compression is just too much. However by starting one cylinder at a time the Yanmar runs wonderfully well. A real joy to listen to. Anyway, back to the starter motor: Initially an electro marine engineer remade the damaged solder joints and yes he used a high temperature solder, but the motor appeared weak. So the next move was to take it to a rewind specialist. They gave it a through inspection/clean and felt there was nothing wrong with it, although they didn't have a rig to test the torque. No change to it's power, so I next bought a high quality Chinese starter (1.2 kw) from a company in the USA. The Yanmar turned over well, started easily and then after three or four starts, broke the casting at the Bendix end. The Company replaced the starter and the same thing happened in the same place. To me the Bendix casting looks as if it was "flash" casted rather than "die". In my opinion it looks a little bubbly. I feel they might be OK for a 1 or 2GM but not for a 3.

I ordered a new (original spec) Hitachi starter(1.0 kw) from an agricultural mechanic enterprise in Blaye ( I live in France) and another Chinese model turned up and at 450 E I felt it was too much so refused it. Well I'd had two already..

The cables on the boat are fine. I've done the relay modification on the starter system .

My thinking is that if the coils had burnt out there would be some visible sign or at least a burning smell and as the field wouldn't be generated, the thing wouldn't turn. I obviously don't want to buy another "original" starter if it's not going to do the biz.

So the questions are:

Has anyone else had these problems and what did you do ? any other ideas ?

Yours
Chris E

 

[steve28]

the only thing that comes to mind is if the head has been skimmed to much causing to much compression, we are talking very close to the limits.
The fact that you blew the bendix on the hi-torque ones plus the orginal hitachi failure is too much of a coincidence.

A good compression test is the next step, use a good tester or a diesel mechanic.

steve

 

[rotrax]

the only thing that comes to mind is if the head has been skimmed to much causing to much compression, we are talking very close to the limits.
The fact that you blew the bendix on the hi-torque ones plus the orginal hitachi failure is too much of a coincidence.

A good compression test is the next step, use a good tester or a diesel mechanic.

steve

+1!

 

[loa]

Hey Buddies
I think the original failure was caused by me having to get the engine started smartish and ran the starter for long. In my defence the Gironde flows at 4-5 knots , so there are times when you can't hang around to much.
The head wasn't skimmed. There was very shallow pitting so that was filled with a 3m metal filler. The pitting hadn't got to the cylinder liner so I wasn't sure why the gasket had blown. The head might not have been torqued down correctly by the previous owner. I've blued the head and checked it on a surface plate. It's flat.


Ellaway

 

[steve28]

i still stand by the compression check, then go for the new genuine starter

 

[savageseadog]

Is the timing right? might be injecting early?

 

[loa]

The timing is fine now. Initially it was early by about 7degrees. A new shim set from marine-power sorted it out. Their advice was a line either side of the injection mark was close enough. Not a difficult job just a bit of messing aboutand taking care,
Apart from the starter the damm thing runs better now than it ever has. The Chinese ones turned the engine over quickly but just didn't last. The original one appears to have nothing wrong with it.

Strange but true

Ellaway

 

[westernman]

I have just changed the starter motor on my Yanmar 4JH2 DTE yet again. The local repair company (who I trust) put in a Delco part - 310 euros + VAT for the thing. A real Yanmar one is more than double.

 

[misterg]

I suggest taking the original one to a different auto electrical rewind place - one which can test the torque of the motor & check that it meets spec / rectify it if it doesn't.

Has anyone checked the contacts in the solenoid of the original motor?

0.02p

Andy

 

[loa]

Yes I agree but I haven't been able to find a torque tester in the Charante Maritime The solenoid had been replaced as part of the starter relay modification about a year ago.

I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new original from either the "Alternator Starter Company" or " Marine Power"

Ellaway

 

[steve28]

one in the for sale section today

 

[loa]

Cheers Steve.

I seem to remember that some of the early 1GM's had a 600 watt starter but hopefully it will be the 1kw type. At the moment I'm trying to track down a comparable make Lucas or Bosch will do but as yet no luck

yours Chris E

 

[Chris_Robb]

I had problems with my starting the Yanmar 3GM30 when it was needed and finished up damaging the starter motor. The starting problem was resolved by rebuilding the head, repairing the damage to the head and block faces, changing the head gasket, regrinding the valves, changing the valve seals, changing the braided fuel pip , the secondary fuel filter strainer assembly and using some Isuzu washers instead of the copper ones, servicing the injectors and retiming the fuel injection
The starter motor has proved a little more problematic. It turns the motor over, under decompression, but once the levers are pushed back the compression is just too much. However by starting one cylinder at a time the Yanmar runs wonderfully well. A real joy to listen to. Anyway, back to the starter motor: Initially an electro marine engineer remade the damaged solder joints and yes he used a high temperature solder, but the motor appeared weak. So the next move was to take it to a rewind specialist. They gave it a through inspection/clean and felt there was nothing wrong with it, although they didn't have a rig to test the torque. No change to it's power, so I next bought a high quality Chinese starter (1.2 kw) from a company in the USA. The Yanmar turned over well, started easily and then after three or four starts, broke the casting at the Bendix end. The Company replaced the starter and the same thing happened in the same place. To me the Bendix casting looks as if it was "flash" casted rather than "die". In my opinion it looks a little bubbly. I feel they might be OK for a 1 or 2GM but not for a 3.

I ordered a new (original spec) Hitachi starter(1.0 kw) from an agricultural mechanic enterprise in Blaye ( I live in France) and another Chinese model turned up and at 450 E I felt it was too much so refused it. Well I'd had two already..

The cables on the boat are fine. I've done the relay modification on the starter system .

My thinking is that if the coils had burnt out there would be some visible sign or at least a burning smell and as the field wouldn't be generated, the thing wouldn't turn. I obviously don't want to buy another "original" starter if it's not going to do the biz.

So the questions are:

Has anyone else had these problems and what did you do ? any other ideas ?

Yours
Chris E

I have just bought a replacement Volvo starter motor from Super Start in Chichester. Cost £110 plus VAT. (Volvo genuine £700!)
They can deliver next day overseas (well almost) - for instance Greece is £80.
http://www.superstart.co.uk/

At that price, its really not worth repairing your old one.