Yanmar gm stop cable

I’d go for the Yanmar one for £37, however the other one would do fine as the engine fitting is a screw clamp onto the wire (IIRC). The ferrule is to look pretty and stop you from scratching yourself.

If you use the Amazon one, let me know what it is like and if it does the job.
 
Last edited:
Yes I saw your previous post Pete but wasn't sure what you did about the engine end. I'll have a look at the existing one and see what I can work out
 
Yes I saw your previous post Pete but wasn't sure what you did about the engine end. I'll have a look at the existing one and see what I can work out

We replace ours on the 3GM30 with an "Ebay tractor engine stop cable" Under £12, about 1.5m long. solid wire core. Read handle . Easy job. Our original broke at Sanda on the way back from Rathlin. I had to go down and pull the lever manually a few times. Crude but effective. The Jeanneau / Yanmar price was silly.
 
We replace ours on the 3GM30 with an "Ebay tractor engine stop cable" Under £12, about 1.5m long. solid wire core. Read handle . Easy job. Our original broke at Sanda on the way back from Rathlin. I had to go down and pull the lever manually a few times. Crude but effective. The Jeanneau / Yanmar price was silly.
:encouragement::encouragement:
 
I'd get the cheaper one. One other point - I'd add some lubrication before fitting. £10 or £37 the manufacturers might not have been too generous with it.
 
I'd get the cheaper one. One other point - I'd add some lubrication before fitting. £10 or £37 the manufacturers might not have been too generous with it.

If I release the engine end attachment can the old internal wire be pulled right out for lubrication? maybe that's all mine needs as it's just very stiff, not broken.
 
If I release the engine end attachment can the old internal wire be pulled right out for lubrication? maybe that's all mine needs as it's just very stiff, not broken.

The inner can be pulled out, the problem might be getting it back! If the inner cable is at all frayed it will catch on the outer. Twist the inner as you insert it - in the direction that tightens the strands, that will help.

Motorcyclists should all know about "cable oilers", a screw-down syringe that fits onto the end of the cable to force oil through.

Or, without spending any money - hang the whole cable vertically. Make a little funnel round the outer cable with blutack or plasticine, easier to do this at the free end (engine end). Fill the funnel with oil and let gravity do the rest, occasionally working the inner cable to help the oil flow through.



blu tack
 
Or, without spending any money - hang the whole cable vertically. Make a little funnel round the outer cable with blutack or plasticine, easier to do this at the free end (engine end). Fill the funnel with oil and let gravity do the rest, occasionally working the inner cable to help the oil flow through.



blu tack

I like that idea :encouragement:
 
I like that idea :encouragement:

That won't be happening now as the threaded section at the end with the T handle disintgrtated while trying to undo the retaining nuts. A new cable has now been ordered. ( One for a tractor not one for a Yanmar) Worth a try at a tenner. I'll bodge something out of it
 
The inner can be pulled out, the problem might be getting it back! If the inner cable is at all frayed it will catch on the outer. Twist the inner as you insert it - in the direction that tightens the strands, that will help.

I don't know about the OPs, but on my Yanmar cable, and it's much cheaper replacement, the inner cable wasn't stranded - just a single filament.
 
I don't know about the OPs, but on my Yanmar cable, and it's much cheaper replacement, the inner cable wasn't stranded - just a single filament.

The cheapo version I bought was a solid rod core. No Strands. Like old motorcycle valve lifters....
Stranded for this purpose isn't the way to go!
 
I don't know about the OPs, but on my Yanmar cable, and it's much cheaper replacement, the inner cable wasn't stranded - just a single filament.

Single very stiff filament on mine too. I discovered tonight that it was on about 6 inches at the stop handle end that was causing the stiffness so I managed to remove the ferrule cut a foot off the cable. Cut a new thread in the ferrule to replace the bit that broke off. And put it all back together. I hope I can find the T Handle that I took off today at the boat. I was too late to stop the new one I had ordered as it had already been dispatched. Oh well, no harm to have a spare in case my handywork doesn't work.stop cable1.jpg
 
Top