Yanmar Fresh water cooling conversion.

[dflan]

Yanmar 1GM10

Anybody carried out converion of this motor to indirect fresh water cooling? Any information on exchangers, pumps , parts ,sources , availability etc.

 

[steve28]

martec make the kits, aquafax are the distribute them.
They incorporate an 12 volt electric pump for the freshwater side,the kit is complete with everything except the antifreeze/coolant.

After having one for several years i would say that its really only a benefit if you are going to use a calorifier.


steve

 

[snowleopard]

There is a standard kit from Yanmar. Instructions are in the workshop manual (available on line but I don't have the URL as I've got a paper copy).

I vaguely recall a price around £1400.

I would definitely question the benefits. The raw water version is smaller, lighter and has a hand start option. It's also possible to run a calorifier off it.

 

[steve28]

the kit you mean is for the 2gm20 upwards, not the 1gm10.

the kit 1 bought was 350.00 ish

 

[snowleopard]

Doh, I'm not paying attention again!

 

[richardabeattie]

I had an old horizontal cylinder Yanmar that somebody had converted using an electric motor to pump the fresh water. The electric motor ran fine on the bench but overheated under load and kept seizing. So in the end after several blown water hoses and eventually a head gasket I got the message and re-engined with a twin Yanmar, still raw water cooled. One of the benefits of diesel is that once running they don't need electricity. Making the cooling system depend on a 12v pump is adding compexity.

 

[pete]

Hi
I carried out a diy conversion on my 1GM10 around 4 years ago, it comprises of a old worcester combi central heating boiler water heat exchanger (same size to a large flask) but some other makes would do the same job
( I remove these quite often at work) and a home made housing with a ford fiesta water pump fitted into it for the fresh water (as per an old PBO article on converting a petter mini twin by Mike Parker ) the heat exchanger is fitted above the engine just below the header tank, (the system is not sealed), and the pump drives off the existing belt and is fitted below the alternator, I also changed the temp alarm sender to a fresh water one.
I have done this not to heat water but to preserve my engine and it has proved very reliable, I don't like the idea of an electric pump as i think this would be a weak link in the system.

Pete

 

[corncob]

David, you have to remember that the 1GM10 was not designed to run at the hotter temperatures that a Martec kit runs at. If memory serves, the kits jumps the running temp up from approx 60C to something like 90C! I have heard of horror stories of 2 & 3GM's seizing due to Martec kits? Unless you what a calorifier, I would stick with the raw water system. If looked after (anodes,descale) the engine will last for many years.

 

[dflan]

Yes Thanks for your info. Sounds like it is viable. The F.W. Circulating pump could be the hardest practical problem. Since Sending in this question I,ve got hold of a 2nd hand Bowman Heat Exchanger about 10"X 2" , (marine alloys)Needs to be pressure tested yet. Any way thanks again for the info.

 

[dflan]

Yes thanks for your Comments. however didn't you see any benefits apart from being able to use a califorier?Was the increased complexity a problem?

 

[Coppershield]

Re: rinsing attachment(engine)

Hi David,
If You decide not to convert to freshwater cooling , consider putting a freshwater rinsing attachment.
I have this with my freshwater cooled engine, last time I cleaned my oil cooler . once in 15 years it did not need to be cleaned(oil cooler is salt water cooled) .
another advantage of this extra connection . it can be used as extra bilge pump as well as you can make provisions to connect freshwater pump to be used in case of emergency(if the salt water pump fails) .
good luck . .
Muzaffer