Yanmar engine - good source for parts?

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West Coast

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New (to me) boat has yanmar engine. Getting used to looking at a big silver thing, rather than green VP. Used to use volspec for Volvo parts, but now looking for good supplier for Yanmar.

Recommendations? Any in the Clyde area? Thanks!
 
I've a 4JH 2BE. I checked with one auto factor who had a book of equivalents that included Yanmar. Apparently most, but not all, Yanmars use the same filters as Honda, but you obviously need to know which ones. Once I'd used the ones I got from the autofactors I bought a whole load of filters cheaply from www.inlinefilters.co.uk (mainly equivalents with the Baldwin brand). You just need the part numbers for any equivalent to get a start.

I got oil type and gear box oil type from a manual I found online - site has since gone but I downloaded the PDFs. If you search on your engine type you might find one.

Seascrew seem to have the equivalents for the impellors (so far I've got away with spare impellors on board when I bought the boat).
 
If you want yanmar parts. Kip chandlers are dealers also westcoast marine in Troon.
I'd look for equivelent parts for filters, belts, impellors etc. For anodes ebay is good. Can't beat free delivery to your door.
 
Worth adding..........

My 3JHE engine uses high grade mineral oil which is eye wateringly expensive with a Yanmar label. I bought 50 litres from a Truck Service Parts Factor.

If your saildrive uses QuickSilver high performance liquid gold you’ll find that this, too is expensive when buying by the litre. Splash Marine will sell you 10l which is still outrageously expensive but a lot less than 10 x 1l.
 
scottie said:
Check out which drive you have if SD50 do google on it
Click to expand...

Don’t get me started!

1. The ridiculous 5 year recommended change interval for the hull seals. Seems pretty baseless as there’s nothing of fact in the public domain to justify the period.

2. Virtually an engine removal with associated risk of cosmetic damage to boat to change the hull seals.

3. Bottom leg seal predisposed to early life failure.

4. Poor access to sea water channels to clean-out growth which can cause reduced flow.

5. Bad reputation of the cooling water sea cock.

6. Fragile, easily damaged, between hull seal moisture sensor. It should be removed and tested annually but it’s a pig to get out.

7. Cone clutch durability. Low life service interval to check /relap the cones.

8. Mandatory use of very expensive oil laden with additives to try to prevent cone clutch failure.

9. Sensitivity to oil level, risk of blowing out main shaft oil seal if slightly overfilled.

10. Predisposition to oil gallery air lock when refilling after draining from the bottom leg.


Other than these issues I’m sure it’s a fine piece of engineering. I understand that at least one fleet on the south coast has changed many for the new and much improved SD60.
 
Saildrives have always looked marginal to me (fair do-s, never had one)
They're basically an ally outboard leg exiting through a fairly vulnerable below the waterline hole in the hull.
My shaft drive and string stuffing box is antedeluvian but simple.
(Just noticed my accidental pun... antedeluvian... geddit?)

davidjackson said:
Don’t get me started!

1. The ridiculous 5 year recommended change interval for the hull seals. Seems pretty baseless as there’s nothing of fact in the public domain to justify the period.

2. Virtually an engine removal with associated risk of cosmetic damage to boat to change the hull seals.

3. Bottom leg seal predisposed to early life failure.

4. Poor access to sea water channels to clean-out growth which can cause reduced flow.

5. Bad reputation of the cooling water sea cock.

6. Fragile, easily damaged, between hull seal moisture sensor. It should be removed and tested annually but it’s a pig to get out.

7. Cone clutch durability. Low life service interval to check /relap the cones.

8. Mandatory use of very expensive oil laden with additives to try to prevent cone clutch failure.

9. Sensitivity to oil level, risk of blowing out main shaft oil seal if slightly overfilled.

10. Predisposition to oil gallery air lock when refilling after draining from the bottom leg.


Other than these issues I’m sure it’s a fine piece of engineering. I understand that at least one fleet on the south coast has changed many for the new and much improved SD60.
Click to expand...
 
davidjackson said:
Don’t get me started!

1. The ridiculous 5 year recommended change interval for the hull seals. Seems pretty baseless as there’s nothing of fact in the public domain to justify the period.

2. Virtually an engine removal with associated risk of cosmetic damage to boat to change the hull seals.

3. Bottom leg seal predisposed to early life failure.

4. Poor access to sea water channels to clean-out growth which can cause reduced flow.

5. Bad reputation of the cooling water sea cock.

6. Fragile, easily damaged, between hull seal moisture sensor. It should be removed and tested annually but it’s a pig to get out.

7. Cone clutch durability. Low life service interval to check /relap the cones.

8. Mandatory use of very expensive oil laden with additives to try to prevent cone clutch failure.

9. Sensitivity to oil level, risk of blowing out main shaft oil seal if slightly overfilled.

10. Predisposition to oil gallery air lock when refilling after draining from the bottom leg.
Click to expand...

Yes Happy New Year to you also. But back to OP.

Most filters and mineral oil you can get from motor factors my local auto shop supplies them. Sail drive oil OEP 80-90 from auto shop. Chandlery at Inverkip has good stock at reasonable prices also DDZ at Largs. Other chandleries around Glasgow do not touch Yanmar.
 
Sneaky Pete said:
Most filters and mineral oil you can get from motor factors my local auto shop supplies them. Sail drive oil OEP 80-90 from auto shop. Chandlery at Inverkip has good stock at reasonable prices also DDZ at Largs. Other chandleries around Glasgow do not touch Yanmar.
Click to expand...

What 'e said. I found Kip good both for stock parts and for getting stuff in. For larger things, like a new cylinder head, I bought in the US and had the stuff shipped to my sister who lives there and brought it across for me. A bit of a faff, but Yanmar parts are typically 50% cheaper there and US dealers aren't allowed to ship to Europe.
 
I get some of my filters etc from the Dive Shop/Engineers next door to the Chandlers at Largs Marina. Owner is an experienced engineer so knows the alternatives.
 
Martin&Rene said:
I get some of my filters etc from the Dive Shop/Engineers next door to the Chandlers at Largs Marina. Owner is an experienced engineer so knows the alternatives.
Click to expand...

They are helpful, but I think they have given up on stationary engines and so it's mostly old stock now. Their Seagull spares box used to be well worth a rummage, too.
 
So, I have a SD 50 saildrive. Read up on this issue online, so seems the cone issue is one to watch?

Switching the focus, any recommendations of yanmar marine engineers in the Ardrossan area?
 
Last edited:
West Coast said:
So, I have a SD 50 saildrive. Read up on this issue online, so seems the cone issue is one to watch?

Switching the focus, any recommendations of yanmar marine engineers in the Ardrossan area?
Click to expand...

West coast troon maybe nearest
I am not shure how you get round the cone maintainance easily we ended up upgrading to sd60
How old is the installation?
 
Water ingress complete right off as cones needed replacing
New leg
New adapter kit
New drive plate
But It did include both diaphragms which were due to be replaced
 
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