Yanmar 4JH3TE Turbo blower wash

Irish Rover

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Sorry for posting another thread asking numpty questions. I’ve been nosing around my engines to get more familiar with them with a view to doing most of my own routine maintenance. I opened the turbo blowers today to check the air intake filters. Both had some oil on them and there was a small amount of oil present in the housings. I washed the filters with diesel. I see in the manual it recommends a procedure for washing the turbo blades. It looks straightforward enough apart from locating the Yanmar wash. Do I need to use theYanmar stuff or can I use any everyday liquid detergent?
 
'Turbo wash' is a bit of a misleading term; it's not a detergent-type process, so don't use everyday liquid detergent. The Yanmar liquid is difficult to obtain, Yanmar sells it in a large wholesale size aimed at service agents; if you bought it yourself at huge expense you would have enough to last you a couple of hundred years. My Yanmar agent doesn't have it and doesn't do the turbo wash procedure even when the service schedule calls for it. I suspect that they aren't alone. Halfords does/did a similar product in a single-use size.
 
'Turbo wash' is a bit of a misleading term; it's not a detergent-type process, so don't use everyday liquid detergent. The Yanmar liquid is difficult to obtain, Yanmar sells it in a large wholesale size aimed at service agents; if you bought it yourself at huge expense you would have enough to last you a couple of hundred years. My Yanmar agent doesn't have it and doesn't do the turbo wash procedure even when the service schedule calls for it. I suspect that they aren't alone. Halfords does/did a similar product in a single-use size.
Thanks. Looks like Halfords have this stuff and as luck would have it I’m going to Ireland this week and will be in NI at the weekend.
 
As far as I know , oil on the turbo blades is not bad unless it is particularly grimey with sludge. Infact my boat turbo has a tube that leads to the engine top to ensure the the blades are oiled from there.
 
Be careful with Halfords - they sell Wynn's Diesel Turbo Cleaner in the usual Wynn's odd-shaped bottle, which is added to the fuel tank, and Wynn's Turbo Cleaner aerosol, which is sprayed into the running turbocharger in a similar way to the Yanmar stuff. I have used the latter Wynn's product but it's difficult to prove a negative, in that I can't say whether it has been effective, except that Yanmar must specify a turbo wash for a reason (I hope other than to sell their own product). I see that Lucas does a similar aerosol.
 
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As far as I know , oil on the turbo blades is not bad unless it is particularly grimey with sludge. Infact my boat turbo has a tube that leads to the engine top to ensure the the blades are oiled from there.

That “ tube “ is most likely the crank or / and rocker box case breather .
It’s recirculating toxic fumes to be reburnt in a lowering emissions type of way .
It’s not lubricating in any way .
Ideally you don,t want any aggregations on the turbo blades ,either crank fumes or soot.
A nice clean shiney smoth bladed turbo will give a greater boost .

Arh soot or agglomerations that’s what the service guide is attempting to deal with by the turbo wash .
As said in a similar recent thread by the OP the aim of the game is run em at the correct EGT / cylinder temps .
Do that as much as you can then the blades will clean themselves or the soot is insignificant.
Having said that we all need to do marina manoeuvres etc .
The MAN manual specifically says “ don,t allow idle for more than 5 mins “ The suggestion is switch off for that very reason .

You manual will have recommended running rpm too :encouragement:
 
That “ tube “ is most likely the crank or / and rocker box case breather .
It’s recirculating toxic fumes to be reburnt in a lowering emissions type of way .
It’s not lubricating in any way .
Ideally you don,t want any aggregations on the turbo blades ,either crank fumes or soot.
A nice clean shiney smoth bladed turbo will give a greater boost .

Arh soot or agglomerations that’s what the service guide is attempting to deal with by the turbo wash .
:
there's a similar tube on each of my engines and as I said in my OP there was some oil on the filter mesh and inside the filter housing on both.
It seems really daft that washing the blower is listed as a routine [DIY] service procedure but it's bloody impossible to locate the Yanmar detergent.
 
I understood all the words individually but I have no idea what you mean?

As the engine gains hours and becomes more worn out, the crankcase will start to breath more heavily. 'Blowby' from piston rings and less so from valve gear will pressurise the crankcase, this needs to be vented, sometimes overboard and sometimes into the turbo inlet.

When vented into the turbo inlet, the hot oily air from the crankcase can combust in the cylinders, so the engine starts to run on its own oil, often leading to a total failure.
 

Hi,

I am "washed" turbo rotor out of the black carbon. The usual water and spray bottle such as the flower treatment and the like.

Drive motor in a normal temperature of about 85 ° C, remove the air filter and put RMP without gears about 2500 and spray the coarse spray or thin jet of water the air filter casing is about 3-5 dl and the nozzle is loose and the turbo is cleaner.

Maybe Yanmar wash licuid is beter, bat normal water works fine.

NBs
 
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I e mailed Yanmar today about availability of their detergent and below is the reply I got - I don't think there is much point in contacting Yanmar service agents in Turkey. I'll be in Ireland this weekend and I might try to contact one there.
Dear ,
part 974500-00400 is superseded by XNN19N87N00 (ABLUENT,BLOWER 4KG). Please contact one of our Yanmar-dealers, they will help you.
This is a link for the Yanmar dealer locator:
https://www.yanmar.com/global/dealerlocator/?cat1=20&country=nl&dealer=nl/101946
With best regards,
Reamon van den Hoff
Sales Assistant
Spare Part Department
Yanmar Europe B.V
Brugplein 11, 1332 BS Almere NL
Tel: +31 (0) 36 549 3525
KvK/CoC : 39064873
reamon_vandenhoff@yanmar.com
Skype: reamon_yanmar
www.yanmar.eu
 
Hi,

I am "washed" turbo rotor out of the black carbon. The usual water and spray bottle such as the flower treatment and the like.

Drive motor in a normal temperature of about 85 ° C, remove the air filter and put RMP without gears about 2500 and spray the coarse spray or thin jet of water the air filter casing is about 3-5 dl and the nozzle is loose and the turbo is cleaner.

Maybe Yanmar wash licuid is beter, bat normal water works fine.

NBs
Thanks. I'm not sure I fully undersood. Are you saying just use clean water with no detergent?
 
Thanks. I'm not sure I fully undersood. Are you saying just use clean water with no detergent?

Hi, yes, just water. The temperature difference between turbo / water - water vapor removes carbon etc.

Another way if your turbo is not too dirty is to drive a longer time around 1/2 to 1 hour for your max cruise RMP what Yanmar says you can use for a continuous driving.

NBs
 
As the engine gains hours and becomes more worn out, the crankcase will start to breath more heavily. 'Blowby' from piston rings and less so from valve gear will pressurise the crankcase, this needs to be vented, sometimes overboard and sometimes into the turbo inlet.

When vented into the turbo inlet, the hot oily air from the crankcase can combust in the cylinders, so the engine starts to run on its own oil, often leading to a total failure.
Yup, had that. Brought an oldish diesel Vauxhall onto the MOT ramp. Would not switch off, engine revs started to rise, put into gear and stalled the engine PDQ. Pushed out into the carpark and customer advised NOT to start it. Ofcause we were not believed, customer jumps into car starts engine to drive away and engine revs go through the roof until there was a big bang and all went quiet. "What had WE done to his car" Ohh the joys of owning a garage, glad I'm out of it.

Not sure how you could "stall" a runaway boat engine.
 
'Not sure how you could "stall" a runaway boat engine.'
Fortunately I've never had to try it but one way might be to cover the air intake, another is to squirt the contents of a CO2 extinguisher into the intake. Either way, keep well clear of the possible path of a con rod etc coming out of the side of the engine at great speed.
 
Yup, had that. Brought an oldish diesel Vauxhall onto the MOT ramp. Would not switch off, engine revs started to rise, put into gear and stalled the engine PDQ. Pushed out into the carpark and customer advised NOT to start it. Ofcause we were not believed, customer jumps into car starts engine to drive away and engine revs go through the roof until there was a big bang and all went quiet. "What had WE done to his car" Ohh the joys of owning a garage, glad I'm out of it.

Not sure how you could "stall" a runaway boat engine.

We sold software. "It was all running fine until you ruined our network" . I could stand no more and bought cheap servers off dell that were pile floor to ceiling in the office and gave them away with the system.

Then we went web based :-)

Customers - who would have them!
 
Guys forget the blower wash statement, If you conduct any type of cleaning on a turbo charger please take it to a specialist.
You need to understand that spraying water at a spinning turbine can cause serous damage to the turbine blade, think of the unregulated mass of water can cause blade stress.
 
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