cherod
N/A
they are not very expensive
Yanmar 1GM10
- Thread starter Charlandjaci
- Start date
John Molloy
New Member
Hi,
Just picked up this thread 're the Yanmar 1GM10 manual. Just picked up a boat fitted with this engine, would you mind sharing a copy off the manual with me too please?
Many thanks
John
cherod
N/A
i know a little about these if i can help
John Molloy
New Member
Hi, apologies for not getting back sooner. I was looking to see if there was a service manual available as I want to adjust the tick over speed.
Regards
Jm
Sniper
Well-Known Member
cherod
N/A
there is a wee adjustable nut on the throttle linkage on the engine , with locking nut , it is very easy .
John Molloy
New Member
Great stuff many thanks
Jm
Jm
PetiteFleur
Well-Known Member
I sourced knurled stainless Steel screws on ebay when speedseal went - not expensive, make sure you have the correct thread.
Mad64
New Member
I have a Yanmar 1gm10 (1989). While looking for an oil leak I noticed a threaded hole to the right of the oil fill cap. Initially I thought I had somehow lost it, but I searched online images and see that it has no bolt, What is purpose of this hole?
slawosz
Well-Known Member
How did you solved it? Was the pump ok afterwards?
Tomahawk
Well-Known Member
TBH, I can’t remember. I have has so many minor "issues" over the past ten years which I simply fixed.
The fuel pumps on all the GM series are driven by a cam. They can be removed and serviced without needing to take note of the timing.
The fuel pumps on all the GM series are driven by a cam. They can be removed and serviced without needing to take note of the timing.
slawosz
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply!
Oh, ok, so I believe that it wasn't something that require a mayor and expensive repair?
How did you noticed that this was pump fault - what where sympthoms (if you remember of course).
Sailing steve
Well-Known Member
It is worth investing in......
Non-Rusting oil pipes:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-N...t-Oil-Pipes-Upgrade-1Long-1Short/153417741284
Also the exhaust elbow in stainless:- ExhaustElbow.com
It is also worth keeping spare water pipes, especially the little short one. If they spring a leak you are in a whole world of trouble and mess.
I am not advertising for them, but I also source parts from French Marine Motors in Brightlingsea. I just had to re-condition my water pump and they had everything on my doorstep in 3 days. Nothing is cheap because it all has the magic 'Marine Grade' sticker, which assumes the buyer is rich....
Also, if you can get one, buy the workshop manual too. They are not complex just fiddley because they are normally crammed in so tight you can't get to anything properley or even see it.
Repower marine stock aftermarket Yanmar spares which are sometimes half the price.
I bought a 1GM10 stainless elbow from exhaustebow.com recently. The pipe is incorrectly positioned on the flange so doesn't fit over the lip on the head exhaust port. The vendor is ignoring mails so my options are either risk grinding some of the flange away, making a spacing plate and using two gaskets or lobbing it in the bin.
The shaft on the water pump wears where the lips on the seals run. You can get round buying a very expensive replacement shaft by replacing the seals and adding a 2-3mm packing piece behind them so the seal lips now run on an unworn section of the origional shaft.
Oil pipes can be made by any hydraulic hose company. Mine cost £16 for both. The hydraulic hoses have a greater diameter then the original steel pipes which makes them a tight fit so measure very carefully - too short and they obviously won't reach, but too long and they'll foul. The longer pipe of the two needs a supporting bracket to stop it flapping around when the engine is running.
Tomahawk
Well-Known Member
It jammed open at full throttle.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
there is an anode in the block. It's easier th first remove the alternator too gain better access. The impellers were suspect th the brass insert shearing away from the rubber blades
rowlock
Well-Known Member
Apologies for the rude response from the well known member, particular as they are not immune to a little thread drift themselves.
The symptoms you describe are often explained by a non seating/sealing exhaust valve along with a blocked or restricted exhaust port, water injection elbow or pipe work downstream of the elbow. A compression test will confirm.
Repair is often possible. There is plenty of meat allowing seat recuts and scale and corrosion removal within tolerances. The manual is your friend as has been said above and these simple engines are repair and maintainable but enthusiastic amteurs While a head gasket, valves and elbow are not inexpensive the end result can be many more years of service. These engine will run way below the minimum tolerances set out in the manual so when the refuse to start it is unlikely to get better without some tender loving care.
good luck.
Regards
oldbloke
Well-Known Member
My oil pipe was looking a little tired, I slathered it in grease and put a little shield over it(a bit of right angle wooden moulding) as a temporary fix. It was still fine 5yrs later when I sold the boat
Sailing steve
Well-Known Member
Edit. In fairness to exhaustelbow I must add they've now replied and advise to grind the surplus material off or return for a refund.