Yanmar 1gm10 Reconditioning

chinita

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Mulling over whether to have my 1992 engine reconditioned. No problems (tough wood) and has been regularly serviced by myself.

Anybody been through this process?

What is involved in a recon and what are the ball park figures?

Or should it be 'if it aint broke........'

TIA
 
I did YSM 2 years ago myself, in situ, after much similar soul searching. Cylinder head reconditioned professionally, new cylinder liner and piston rings and big end shells. In all it cost me around £500. Gaskets are amazingly expensive. The work was relatively easy with a workshop manual.

The result has been phenomenal - no smoke, reliable, no oil consumed, confidence restored. For me it was less hassle and much less money than a new engine installation. But it is still a 40 year old engine. For a recent engine I would think it well worth the effort.
 
Mulling over whether to have my 1992 engine reconditioned. No problems (tough wood) and has been regularly serviced by myself.

Anybody been through this process?

What is involved in a recon and what are the ball park figures?

Or should it be 'if it aint broke........'

TIA

My power was well down on a similar vintage 1GM 10 and was a bit smoky into the bargain. Over the winter I took the head off, cleaned the gunge out, ground the valve seats. The cylinders looked in good nick so I didn't tinker with those.

I was struggling to get over 3 knots with any sea, now she'll comfortably do 6. A simple job and all for the price of a couple of gaskets (head & rocker cover).
 
Unlikely to be any issues with the bottom end. As suggested there is some value in taking the head off as it is valves and corrosion that are the biggest problems. However, if it is running well and the exhaust and water passages/pipes are clear, leave it be.

If it does come to a full overhaul it is light enough to lift out easily and work on in the warmth and comfort of your garage (if you have one, otherwise kitchen table like an old British bike!)
 
(if you have one, otherwise kitchen table like an old British bike!)

Don't have a garage or a kitchen table unfortunately :mad:

Georgian mahogany dining table is full of Taylors cooker bits, Taylors heater bits, a varnished whisker pole and half constructed washboards.

Mrs C would throw a track if I appeared with our inboard engine. You should have seen her face when I returned from a car boot sale with a knackered Seagull :eek::)
 
'if it aint broke...save your money
yanmar spares ....expensive!
if its running ok whats the problem?
however check the anode!
and watch out for salt water dripping onto oil pipes!
 
'if it aint broke...save your money
yanmar spares ....expensive!
if its running ok whats the problem?
however check the anode!
and watch out for salt water dripping onto oil pipes!

If nothing else, do check the exhaust elbow. These corrode inside and allow water to run back into the cylinder head. I thought mine looked fine, but after reading about failures (in PBO I think), I removed it one day. The weld at the base looked fine, but when I put a finger over the cooling water outlet connection, and filled the gap between the inner and outer tubes, it was obvious there was a leak between the two.

Also, check your thermostat. Mine was corroded in the open position but, of course, this was not obvious. A new one is easily fitted.
 
Did this two seasons ago on a 1GM10.New head assembly,exhaust elbow,waterpump shaft seals,bores light hone,internal waterways scraped out,injector cleaned and refitted with new seals,all new gaskets to top end,bottom end checked and all good,new fuel and oil filters and water pump impeller.DIY cost for parts just over £700.Probably about ten hours of my time so maybe £1500-£1800 if a professional doing it.
 
If you're going to replace the exhaust elbow, I can recommend the following (which I bought after seeing another post on this forum)

http://www.exhaustelbow.com/

Mine arrived quickly in a stress-free transaction and was well made and finished. All centres lined up perfectly and it took about 10 minutes to fit.

As usual, no commercial interest, just a satisfied customer.
 
Did this two seasons ago on a 1GM10.New head assembly,exhaust elbow,waterpump shaft seals,bores light hone,internal waterways scraped out,injector cleaned and refitted with new seals,all new gaskets to top end,bottom end checked and all good,new fuel and oil filters and water pump impeller.DIY cost for parts just over £700.Probably about ten hours of my time so maybe £1500-£1800 if a professional doing it.

Tricky one to call as new ones are around 3K :confused: I'm looking at 1990-95 models that may need attention so this is a handy thread - as always it's the labour that whacks the price up. It's got to be right though, for another 1K I think I would put a new engine in if it needed it - peace of mind. I've heard of the conrods need replacing if you bugger up the engine...
 
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I took my engine out a couple of years ago. It was running OK but I"d got two mountings that had failed and it was easier to remove the engine than replace the mountings in situ. The mounts cost more than the rest of the work put together. I did the top end overhaul myself and got the pump and injector done by Panda in Fareham. Removing the injector was a swine and in the end I took the head to Bursledon where Marine Power were kind enough to press it out and supply the necessary spares to replace the damaged pre-combustion chamber.

It's as good as new now. I'd advise a top end overhaul, get the injectors cleaned and the pump and injector set sorted by a specialist. Panda were good for me. I've used them before and am a satisfied customer with no financial interest in the company, but I'd advise you used someone local to you if you can. It's easier to take stuff back and moan if you're close. Unless you have low oil pressure or other lub related problems, I"d leave the Mains/big ends alone. They are remarkably robust little engines.

BTW I thought Yanmar had discontinued this engine. Are that really still available new for as lttle as £3k?
 
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