Yanmar 1gm10 Oil Change

Tim Good

Tim Good

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Hello all. I know there are various threads on oil changes but could I just clarify a couple of things.

Engine in question is about 15 years old

Question 1:
In terms of oil does anyone know if 15/40 Castrol GTX High Mileage Mineral Oil would be suitable. Like this stuff:

http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=446887

I know that most people happen to recommend using cheap stuff and changing every year but I'm lucky enough to have a trade account where I can get Castrol from so it works out cheaper.

Question 2:
Also does anyone know how much a 1GM10 is likely to hold? Just over a litre perhaps?

Question 3
Can I also use 15/40 in the gearbox?
 
Hi,

Yes, cheap (Tesco) oil is ok, but I think any mineral oil will be good. Do NOT use synthetic oil though.

Capacity is 1.3 litres.

Gearbox oil is usually engine oil, but can be straight SAE 30 like lawnmower oil.

Geoff
 
The point about cheap oil isn't to save money, but because expensive oils are the wrong thing for basic old-fashioned engines like a 1GM. You're not doing it any favours by buying a "better" oil.

I can't see anything on that link about the API rating, which is what you need. API CD is what Yanmar specify; it's generally reckoned to be OK to go up to API CF if you can't find CD. Halfords own-brand oil for older diesels is CF and what I buy.

EDIT: According to the manual, transmission oil for KM-series boxes is engine oil 10W30 API CC. I guess the tolerances may be wide enough to just use the same oil as in the engine. For KBW boxes, it's Dexron automatic transmission fluid. Specified change interval is 250 hours.

Pete
 
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Cheers guys. Appreciated.

Finally you see loads of people using the Pela Oil pump. Are they really worth the £30? I've alrways been used to crawling under a car engine and getting the sump valve off so pumping it out seems a bit alien but I'm happy to go with the consensus if someone says it is worth every penny.

Thoughts?
 
northcave said:
Cheers guys. Appreciated.

Finally you see loads of people using the Pela Oil pump. Are they really worth the £30? I've alrways been used to crawling under a car engine and getting the sump valve off so pumping it out seems a bit alien but I'm happy to go with the consensus if someone says it is worth every penny.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I've recently bought one on eBay, but not used it yet. Owners of 1 gm's seem to agree changing the oil is a messy business, and the smaller hand pumps seem a bit iffey. I've let other boat owners in my club know I have one, so I'm quite willing to let them use it. Otherwise it is rather an expense for one use per year.

Geoff
 
northcave said:
I've alrways been used to crawling under a car engine and getting the sump valve off so pumping it out seems a bit alien
Click to expand...

Ah, so this is the first time you've changed the oil? Crawl underneath if you like, you won't find a sump plug there :D

Because most boats fit the engine very close to the bottom of the hull, there isn't usually any space to put a drain pan underneath or to unscrew a plug. So they didn't bother fitting one. As it happens, our boat has a long keel and plenty of space under the engine, so when we had the engine out I looked at getting one added. Marine Power said the sump wasn't thick enough to tap for a plug, and they weren't aware of any special kit for it. No doubt something could have been done if necessary, but it didn't seem worth it so we've stuck to sucking it out.

Pete
 
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northcave said:
Cheers guys. Appreciated.

Finally you see loads of people using the Pela Oil pump. Are they really worth the £30? I've alrways been used to crawling under a car engine and getting the sump valve off so pumping it out seems a bit alien but I'm happy to go with the consensus if someone says it is worth every penny.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

I bought one at a Boat Jumble last winter - don't regret a single penny of what I paid for it. Oil changes will now be a very regular occurrence on my VP 2001.:)
 
northcave said:
Cheers guys. Appreciated.

Finally you see loads of people using the Pela Oil pump. Are they really worth the £30? I've alrways been used to crawling under a car engine and getting the sump valve off so pumping it out seems a bit alien but I'm happy to go with the consensus if someone says it is worth every penny.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Worth it's weight in gold even when full! I've had one for years and it makes a messy job simple. Stick the tube in, pump it up a few times, go for a coffee. Remove the tube, walk to oil waste tank and dump.
 
prv said:
Ah, so this is the first time you've changed the oil? Crawl underneath if you like, you won't find a sump plug there :D

Pete
Click to expand...

So what's that plug that sits at the front of my 1GM sump, and which releases oil when removed, for? Admittedly I can only access it easily when the engine's out!
 
Horatio said:
So what's that plug that sits at the front of my 1GM sump, and which releases oil when removed, for? Admittedly I can only access it easily when the engine's out!
Click to expand...

Have a look below, you need to drain the sump with item no 2 !!
Looks like a drain plug to me!! Or at least it is on my engine!!
 
IIRC the SEAGO pump got the Best Buy when PBO tested them. I bought one for changing gearbox oil on my boat, but I did have a 1GM10 on the old boat and wish I had had the SEAGO pump then rather than the little brass bodied job which worked but wasn't ideal.
 
Another vote for the Pela. And you can use it to suck out rubbish from the bottom of the fuel tank, and to help you bleed the fuel system single-handed. Comes in handy for the lawnmower oil as well, so mine gets plenty of use to justify the purchase price.

I use Tesco 'oil for older diesel engines' which is a CF grade, 1.3 litres for the 1gm10 engine. Same oil for the gearbox, but only needs 0.3 litres. Overfilling is not good for either.

Have plenty of rag available when changing the oil filter, and I usually use a Fram or Coopers equivalent filter as it's 1/3 the price of the Yanmar one. Some people recommend using a ziplock poly bag when unscrewing the filter, which seems like a very good idea.
 
Appledore said:
Look here:

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39248

Posting No 8 gives a warning why not to do it, unless, of course, the engine sumps have been altered recently.
Click to expand...

Official Yanmar Workshop Manual says you can use the dipstick extractor type method OR by draining the oil via the sump plug ( see Chapter 14-14 section 4.2.2) Otherwise, why have a drain plug facility on the engine?
I always change the oil via drain plug and have NEVER had issues with oil pressure as I can get a low level plastic drain can under the engine. In fact, using this method is a good idea as you can examine the mesh filter for any particles (something you cant do using an extractor) and clean the filter as required.
 
mickywillis said:
Have a look below, you need to drain the sump with item no 2 !!
Looks like a drain plug to me!! Or at least it is on my engine!!
Click to expand...

Thanks; My comment was intended to be ironic. :) Exactly as shown in your drawing, there is an oil filter behind it. The main problem with using the drain plug lies in placing a container in such a position so that the oil can be collected
 
Doh!

I bought a pela pump last year, used it once, then noticed the drain plug. A baking tray fits under the engine a treat and catches every drop. 1GM10.
Pump proved useful for cleaning fuel tank though, so not a total waste of money!
 
I improvised a pump using one of the wee brass pumps duct taped to the side of an empty oil container. A cheap solution but bits kept working loose and spurting oil all over. So I gave up and bought a Pela - entirely trouble free if the oil is warm.
I also stocked up on cheap disposable nappies for draping about the engine just in case. Even more useful for putting under the filter when changing it.
 
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