weaver_fish
Well-Known Member
Any tips on how to remove the retaining ring from the fuel filter. Mine is jammed solid and I can't shift it even if I swear at it loudly!!!
Yanmar 1GM10 Fuel Filter Stuck
- Thread starter weaver_fish
- Start date
Superstrath
Well-Known Member
I don't think that there's room to get even a strap wrench round the ring, but you can usually get a drift of some sort onto one of the stepped parts and give it a few gentle belts, this is what we had to do. Access was, of course, poor, but a very long, old, blunt screwdiver served as a drift that allowed the end to be given a reasonable tap with a hammer, and off it came.
Don't forget to maintain a constant high level of swearing, especially when you trap or twat your fingers.
Don't forget to maintain a constant high level of swearing, especially when you trap or twat your fingers.
smeaks
Well-Known Member
as superstrath suggets a long screw driver and a controlled tap - but be carefull. Also I have been able to get plumbers pliers (crocodile?- you know the ones with adjustable hinge on jaws at 90 degree at the end?) you have to be a gynaecologist mind to get in from the front!
have fun
have fun
mortehoe
Well-Known Member
According to the workshop manual that ([--word removed--]) ring that supposedly mates a neoprene 'O' ring should only be done up hand tight. Mine leaked like a sieve till it was attacked with a large driver and a lump hammer. All I wanted to do was to replace the inline fuel filter as desired by the 'Owner's Manual' ... The filter was fine - squeaky clean. So, new one was installed and it took 2 years and tighten it sufficiently to stop it leaking!!!!!
If you fuel is clean at the first filter then, IMO, I would not even bother to attempt to even try to launch a very long driver at that dreaded ring .... but if you really want to then disconnect the pipe from the lift pump; disconnect the pipe to the high pressure pump; undo the 2 retaining bolts that hold the filter enclosure to the head and then remove the filter unit intact. (Don't tip it up as fuel will spill everywhere)
You can now devise a method on how to hit the un_designed thing to release the bowl ... and it still won't be easy.
I'm stuck with a blasted Yanmar 1GM10 - I don't know whether I love it or hate it. It's done 1800 recorded hours and was told by a certain famous boatyard engineers east of Ireland, north of Cowes, and not too far west of Liverpool that the engine was 'totally knackered' and that a new Yanmar 1GM10 was the only solution ... and happily as they were the only appointed Yanmar Agents east of the Menai Strait, they could install one ex-stock for a £££ransom tomorrow + + + +
So I rebuilt it from scratch: Total cost: Less than £568 inc vat by using the internet and USA suppliers ~ 1/4 UK cost including postage. The best was the fuel injector pump - £82 for an overhaul including a new element. [The Workshop Manual says it's unservicable .... and that's not true: It's only another tractor part! Find a diesel engineer who works on tractor engines /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ]
So, IMO, unless you REALLY REALLY have a need to undo and replace the inline filter, then don't even bother. If you do manage to undo it, you'll have even more bother trying to stop it leaking after you've re-installed it!
If you fuel is clean at the first filter then, IMO, I would not even bother to attempt to even try to launch a very long driver at that dreaded ring .... but if you really want to then disconnect the pipe from the lift pump; disconnect the pipe to the high pressure pump; undo the 2 retaining bolts that hold the filter enclosure to the head and then remove the filter unit intact. (Don't tip it up as fuel will spill everywhere)
You can now devise a method on how to hit the un_designed thing to release the bowl ... and it still won't be easy.
I'm stuck with a blasted Yanmar 1GM10 - I don't know whether I love it or hate it. It's done 1800 recorded hours and was told by a certain famous boatyard engineers east of Ireland, north of Cowes, and not too far west of Liverpool that the engine was 'totally knackered' and that a new Yanmar 1GM10 was the only solution ... and happily as they were the only appointed Yanmar Agents east of the Menai Strait, they could install one ex-stock for a £££ransom tomorrow + + + +
So I rebuilt it from scratch: Total cost: Less than £568 inc vat by using the internet and USA suppliers ~ 1/4 UK cost including postage. The best was the fuel injector pump - £82 for an overhaul including a new element. [The Workshop Manual says it's unservicable .... and that's not true: It's only another tractor part! Find a diesel engineer who works on tractor engines /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ]
So, IMO, unless you REALLY REALLY have a need to undo and replace the inline filter, then don't even bother. If you do manage to undo it, you'll have even more bother trying to stop it leaking after you've re-installed it!
smth448
Well-Known Member
I managed to remove mine last week with a strap wrench from Halfords. It was too tight to be undone by hand. Last year I removed it with a hammer and drift. Worried about breaking something this year. I bought the strap wrnch for removing the oil filter but it worked fine on the fuel one too.
The difficulty comes after you've taken off the ring. The throttle linkage or soemthing stops the bowl from being removed and you have nothing to grip the diesel soaked filter with.
I think the 1GM10 was designed for tiny Japanese fingers not my pudgy European ones
The difficulty comes after you've taken off the ring. The throttle linkage or soemthing stops the bowl from being removed and you have nothing to grip the diesel soaked filter with.
I think the 1GM10 was designed for tiny Japanese fingers not my pudgy European ones
weaver_fish
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Don't forget to maintain a constant high level of swearing, especially when you trap or twat your fingers.
[/ QUOTE ]
I type this message in pain owing to a small screw-driver shaped entry wound on the knuckle of my index finger.
Suffice to say, the filter ring is still intact and in place.
Don't forget to maintain a constant high level of swearing, especially when you trap or twat your fingers.
[/ QUOTE ]
I type this message in pain owing to a small screw-driver shaped entry wound on the knuckle of my index finger.
Suffice to say, the filter ring is still intact and in place.
Evadne
Well-Known Member
I have successfully used the long-screwdriver-and-a-hammer method for some years now. Swearing helps, forget strap wrenches.
I found a spare filter unit for a 1GM in the 2nd hand chandlery barge near here, several years ago that is in the shed, somewhere. If you get really desperate, or break it, then PM me and I'll see if I can find it.
I found a spare filter unit for a 1GM in the 2nd hand chandlery barge near here, several years ago that is in the shed, somewhere. If you get really desperate, or break it, then PM me and I'll see if I can find it.
KenMcCulloch
Well-Known Member
I have replaced mine twice, using a strap wrench to shift the ring. The o-ring seal means that it does not need to be done up more than hand tight but it seems like a good idea to renew the o-ring on a fairly regular basis. If it leaks like Morthoe's I would suspect that there's some foreign matter in the seal, or damage to the o-ring, or damage to the filter assembly itself in the seal area.
Slinky Spring
Well-Known Member
Just a thought. It may be easier to remove the whole unit. Its only two bolts and the banjo bolts. You can then remove it to a vice and do the job a bit more easily. Dont forget to re aneal the copper washers before putting them back on.
Heat them up to cherry red on the stove or blow torch, then dunk them in cold water. Saves buying new ones every time.
Heat them up to cherry red on the stove or blow torch, then dunk them in cold water. Saves buying new ones every time.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
This thread reminds me that I must look at mine sometime. Last time I changed it was when I had it on the bench at home and had no problem with the strap wrench method. Seem to recall it was clean as a whistle after 10 years running so I just put a new one in. Just bought a new first aid kit so should be OK. By the way with my old Stuart Turner I used to recite the Nunc Dimitus rather than swear as STs are educated beasties. But guess a Yanmar would not understand in the same way as swearing!
Burnham_Bob
Well-Known Member
the easy way to do it is to slacken off the banjo and get an oil filter metal strap wrench around the knurled top...that's how i do mine.........you can't get the wrench strap round unless you slacken the banjo bolt but as you have to bleed everything afterwards it's no problem.
much less risky than hitting it.....i tighten the knurled nut which tightens the strap wrench with a pair of mole grips so it can't slip and then just push with a steady, firm pressure and it usually moves okay
much less risky than hitting it.....i tighten the knurled nut which tightens the strap wrench with a pair of mole grips so it can't slip and then just push with a steady, firm pressure and it usually moves okay
bluebosunsmate
New Member
Didn't do mine up tight enough and the filter bowl undid itself and dropped off which managed to empty my fuel tank into my bilge.
Problem 1, Engine stopped, auto bilge pump running. Uhm a problem...
Problem 2, Stink of diesel above and below. OK bigger problem.
Problem 3, Fuel all over stbd side of engine space... narrowing down the problem.....
Problem 4, It's a pitch black night, so everything is really being done by touch as you can't get a torch in AND see anything anyway...Problem....
Problem 5, There's absolutely no wind - which was why I was using the noise generator anyway. No worries.
Problem 6, 1/2 miles NW of the Manacles with the tide pushing me quite hard. Problem....
Problem 7, I CAN'T find the filter or filter bowl anywhere.....Very deep bilge in a long keel.... It's not gone down there has it ?? 'cause if it has I'm in deep doo doo.....
Plot position...........
Where's the bloody filter bowl..............
Plot position again, how long would it take the inshore life boat to get here? 15-20 mins. How long til I drift onto the rocks about 30 - 35 ......
Start the stop watch.....
Found the filter bowl hanging on the end of a tie-wrap on the engine mount rail. Have I got enough time to refit it and and bleed the system, hand lift fuel until filter bowl's full, nip off bleed screw, pump more until the pump bleed screw starts to bubble. Ensure the engine battery is isolated, I really don't want to risk draining that.
Engine starts after a few goes. Set course on autopilot to clear Manacles and nip off bleed screw and check for any new leaks.
Plot position and check safety course. Engine's running sweet and there should be enough fuel to get to my mooring. Work out a route to get into shallow (anchorable depth) water as soon as.....just in case a fuel line gets blocked by sludge.....
Most of the lessons are in the story.......
Only other thing to do is to fit a retainer to the filter bowl so it can't go into the bilge if the same ever happens again. Though a spare filter bowl would be useful. (More beer for my pet marine engineer...........)
Oh, by the way clean the gunge out of the bottom of your tank from time to time. I drain the diesel out of mine, remove the bottom tank union and then blast it through with a jet wash, it works for my tank layout, it probably wouldn't with yours!!
Problem 1, Engine stopped, auto bilge pump running. Uhm a problem...
Problem 2, Stink of diesel above and below. OK bigger problem.
Problem 3, Fuel all over stbd side of engine space... narrowing down the problem.....
Problem 4, It's a pitch black night, so everything is really being done by touch as you can't get a torch in AND see anything anyway...Problem....
Problem 5, There's absolutely no wind - which was why I was using the noise generator anyway. No worries.
Problem 6, 1/2 miles NW of the Manacles with the tide pushing me quite hard. Problem....
Problem 7, I CAN'T find the filter or filter bowl anywhere.....Very deep bilge in a long keel.... It's not gone down there has it ?? 'cause if it has I'm in deep doo doo.....
Plot position...........
Where's the bloody filter bowl..............
Plot position again, how long would it take the inshore life boat to get here? 15-20 mins. How long til I drift onto the rocks about 30 - 35 ......
Start the stop watch.....
Found the filter bowl hanging on the end of a tie-wrap on the engine mount rail. Have I got enough time to refit it and and bleed the system, hand lift fuel until filter bowl's full, nip off bleed screw, pump more until the pump bleed screw starts to bubble. Ensure the engine battery is isolated, I really don't want to risk draining that.
Engine starts after a few goes. Set course on autopilot to clear Manacles and nip off bleed screw and check for any new leaks.
Plot position and check safety course. Engine's running sweet and there should be enough fuel to get to my mooring. Work out a route to get into shallow (anchorable depth) water as soon as.....just in case a fuel line gets blocked by sludge.....
Most of the lessons are in the story.......
Only other thing to do is to fit a retainer to the filter bowl so it can't go into the bilge if the same ever happens again. Though a spare filter bowl would be useful. (More beer for my pet marine engineer...........)
Oh, by the way clean the gunge out of the bottom of your tank from time to time. I drain the diesel out of mine, remove the bottom tank union and then blast it through with a jet wash, it works for my tank layout, it probably wouldn't with yours!!
cliffordpope
Well-Known Member
Doesn't anybody know what a C-spanner is for nowadays?
bluebosunsmate
New Member
Yep! Just made one. Had to build an access hatch into the side of my quarter berth into the engine space to use it though!!
alan_d
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Doesn't anybody know what a C-spanner is for nowadays?
[/ QUOTE ]
Is it something to do with the swearing referred to previously?
Doesn't anybody know what a C-spanner is for nowadays?
[/ QUOTE ]
Is it something to do with the swearing referred to previously?
