yanmar 1gm10 dipstick and hand start!

Niander

Niander

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Hi is the oil level checked with dipstick pushed in or just resting in hole
also ive just rebuilt this engine [btw it was under water up to cam cover...wish me luck]...anyway ive been trying to start it with the hand crank but i cannot get it past compression[a good sign i know]but what is the technique to start the litle beast hopefully....
 
Pushed in.

Push up the decrompression lever and give the handle some turns till you have a bit of speed. Drop the lever and with any luck the momentum will be enough. Never managed it myself but others on here have!
 
Don't wrap your thumb around the starting handle when doing it as you can easily get a broken wrist when it fires and it can kick backwards - did this when an apprentice and don't want to do it again. Also make sure that the starting handle is not a tight fit in the tubing covering the fitting where it attaches.

Lift the lever and get it going round good and fast then drop the lever and it should start. Then sit down for an hour to recover as it's hard work. Make sure its well bled.
 
Hi .. We have a YANMAR Engine and it shows no oil if the dipstick is not pushed in fully .. Googling starting a YANMAR by hand seems to suggest that you use the decommpression lever and get the engine spinning then let one off then the other .. Mostly seem to use electric start .. Happy Cranking ..
 
if im starting either a 1gm or 2gm engine by hand assuming the battery is flat, make sure the batteries are isolated. then try starting with 3/4 to full throttle.
once started let the engine run until its warmed up. Then stop it.

you will then find that because the engine is warm it starts easily with the charging engaged.

the same for the 2gm except decompress the back cylinder whilst cranking, flip it back once running.


steve
 
Be careful hand starting, I used to do it all the time untill the lug on the crankshaft broke and a call to power marine suggested that it was generally only considered for use in emergency. New crankshaft required to continue hand starting. I thought about it until he gave me the cost and then thought no more.
 
I used to hand start mine often too, but since I replaced the engine battery I dont bother /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Niander, sounds like you're not using the de-compression lever, which is right on the top of the engine (there's only one!).

hold that back with your right hand, and swing on the crank handle with left until it's going as fast as you can, then flick it back down... there's a bit of a knack to it, you have to put it down at the right moment in the cycle.

another tip, put the handle in so the point of compression is about 11 o'clock - at least I find it easier that way (because there are two spiggots and two matching notches on the handle you can put it at 5 o'clock too) I think because that's when I am putting my weight into the stroke...

Oh and make aboslutely sure the handle is propperly engaged on the spiggot - I didn't once and almost knocked myself out and required several stitches less than an inch from my eye...

If at all possbile to get a battery to the engine, this will make your life easier...
 
I have found it works best to keep turning the engine over when you drop the decompressor off , keeping the momentum going as hard and fast as you can.
I can hand start my 1GM10 easily when warm but have not managed it cold IIRC.
 
[ QUOTE ]
if im starting either a 1gm or 2gm engine by hand assuming the battery is flat, make sure the batteries are isolated. then try starting with 3/4 to full throttle.
once started let the engine run until its warmed up. Then stop it.
you will then find that because the engine is warm it starts easily with the charging engaged.
the same for the 2gm except decompress the back cylinder whilst cranking, flip it back once running.
steve

[/ QUOTE ]

Dont isolate the battery, when it starts you could burn out the alternator.
 
When starting it by hand on my own I used to use a bit of string round the decompression lever to hold it open by having my foot on the string, when spinning well lift foot and off you go.
 
Lots of good advice there...thanx
am attempting repair to startermotor
no alternater fitted at mo
in fact test bed at home in my shed....:)
 
Just to confuse the unwary, the engine oil level should be read with the dipstick pushed in, as others have said, but the gearbox oil level should be read with the gearbox dipstick just resting on the hole ie not screwed in.
I think.
 
I used to start my Volvo MD1 by hand. This was only possible on a cold engine after I started to use fully synthetic Mobil1 engine oil. This has a viscosity rating on 0W40 the first 0 represnts the viscosity at low temperature and as you will see this is low (zero!). This low viscosity made it easier to hand crank over compression when cold.
You will no doubt be told by the forum that this high performance oil is "too good" buit it never gave me a problem on an older engine.
It is expensive oil but I regarded the ability to hand start the engine as a safety feature and thought it was well worthwhile.
Good luck
Martin
 
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