Yanmar 1GM10 Cylinder Head Removal...

JumbleDuck

Well-known member
Joined
8 Aug 2013
Messages
24,165
Location
SW Scotland
Visit site

That could have been mine.

found this on another forum , first thing I thought

" It is possible to get the head bored out into the exhaust port and then a sleeve inserted. The last person i told this method got a machine shop to do the work for 150 pounds. the sleeve was steel and they used liquid nitrogen to cool it before inserting it."

Interesting, but it's a lot to spend if the head isn't otherwise perfect.
 

Venomgrass

New member
Joined
27 Aug 2015
Messages
54
Visit site
Damn :( i really hope that if I buy. New one it cures my problems...
Could this hole be the cause of underpowered engine which runs for 1-5 min then cuts out

Any links where to buy a cheap head?
I haven't checked the condition of my injector and pre combustion?

Cheers for the input everyone!
 

RichardS

N/A
Joined
5 Nov 2009
Messages
29,236
Location
Home UK Midlands / Boat Croatia
Visit site
Damn :( i really hope that if I buy. New one it cures my problems...
Could this hole be the cause of underpowered engine which runs for 1-5 min then cuts out

Any links where to buy a cheap head?
I haven't checked the condition of my injector and pre combustion?

Cheers for the input everyone!

It looks as if the exhaust will be venting into the oilway between the cylinder head and the sump so the exhaust will be pressurising the crankcase and presumably be coming out of the breather or into the air intake if there is a balance pipe. Certainly will cause uneven running and reduction in power but an engine stoppage after a few minutes seems unlikely with a diesel engine as it would tend to burn off any oil vapour being forced into the combustion chamber.

Richard
 

JumbleDuck

Well-known member
Joined
8 Aug 2013
Messages
24,165
Location
SW Scotland
Visit site
Any links where to buy a cheap head?

Do you have anyone who could bring one in from the US for you? If so, find a Yanmar dealer covering their state and order it there. I have just checked, and when I bought one it cost $505 (£310), as opposed to £451 in the UK. It came across in hold luggage with no problems or questions and was in any case under the duty free limit for gifts.

The complete list for that order was


728170-11700 complete cylinder head $505.00
105582-49200 raw water thermostat $26.75
128171-01911 cylinder head gasket $37.25
128275-91340 temperature alarm switch $21.50
128170-13201 exhaust elbow gasket $5.25
128170-11310 rocker cover gasket $4.50
104211-49160 thermostat / anode gasket (2) $1.50 each
27210-200200 zinc anode $3.90

to which was added

105311-11420 Front Chamber $113.50
128275-11490 Insulator $7.00
128275-11500 Cover $4.00​
 

JumbleDuck

Well-known member
Joined
8 Aug 2013
Messages
24,165
Location
SW Scotland
Visit site
Do you have anyone who could bring one in from the US for you? If so, find a Yanmar dealer covering their state and order it there. I have just checked, and when I bought one it cost $505 (£310), as opposed to £451 in the UK. It came across in hold luggage with no problems or questions and was in any case under the duty free limit for gifts.

The complete list for that order was


728170-11700 complete cylinder head $505.00
105582-49200 raw water thermostat $26.75
128171-01911 cylinder head gasket $37.25
128275-91340 temperature alarm switch $21.50
128170-13201 exhaust elbow gasket $5.25
128170-11310 rocker cover gasket $4.50
104211-49160 thermostat / anode gasket (2) $1.50 each
27210-200200 zinc anode $3.90

to which was added

105311-11420 Front Chamber $113.50
128275-11490 Insulator $7.00
128275-11500 Cover $4.00​

The most painful bit was "front chamber" ... that's the tiny pepper-pot lid precombustion doo-dad.

Edit: I've just found the parts list from which the order was made:

1GM10%20Cylinder%20Head.jpg


The katakana above "cylinder head" transcribes as "shirinda heddo".
 
Last edited:

Paul06

Member
Joined
19 Jan 2013
Messages
51
Location
Boat: On The Clyde
Visit site
I assume that's the type of sleeve repair mentioned in post #20? It looks sound. Perhaps you could advise the OP where you had this done?

Richard

Yes,
The same repair as in post 20. I have a Couple of machines and did it myself. I've done a couple before but this was the worst one for corrosion. The sleeve is made from stainless, but unfortunately I couldn't achieve a press fit because most of the original metal has been removed, so my first idea was to press it onto soft copper wire to form a seal.
In the end I used a lead washer, the type electricians use when joining conduit to boxes, under the bottom face nothing under the top-hat portion and I left the sleeve 0.5mm proud of the casting face, so that when the exhaust is bolted on, it will compress it into the lead washer.
 

RichardS

N/A
Joined
5 Nov 2009
Messages
29,236
Location
Home UK Midlands / Boat Croatia
Visit site
Yes,
The same repair as in post 20. I have a Couple of machines and did it myself. I've done a couple before but this was the worst one for corrosion. The sleeve is made from stainless, but unfortunately I couldn't achieve a press fit because most of the original metal has been removed, so my first idea was to press it onto soft copper wire to form a seal.
In the end I used a lead washer, the type electricians use when joining conduit to boxes, under the bottom face nothing under the top-hat portion and I left the sleeve 0.5mm proud of the casting face, so that when the exhaust is bolted on, it will compress it into the lead washer.

Very impressive work! Did you turn the sleeve yourself or purchase it ready made? Just it case the OP can benefit from your experience.

Richard
 

Birdseye

Well-known member
Joined
9 Mar 2003
Messages
28,500
Location
s e wales
Visit site
There's nothing there that you shouldn't be able to clean / scrape and refurbish. The blocked seawater inlet into the elbow would have tended to cause overheating but I doubt that would have stopped the engine in just a few minutes. The exhaust flow is somewhat restricted which would have affected power output but it's not serious enough to have stopped the engine.

I suspect that you have a problem with fuel flow caused by air leakage into the fuel system or a blocked fuel filter or air filter or tank vent. It might be difficult to pin this down until you clean and re-assemble the engine and get it running again.

Richard

I agree with this. The head corrosion issue you refer to doesnt in my experience stop the engine, it just dumps water into the oil and the exhaust.
 

nemodreams

New member
Joined
4 May 2002
Messages
294
Location
Bristol UK
Visit site
Before you do anything I would strip and check the head to see whether its worth fixing.
It all comes apart easily. Valves , springs seals are all cheap enough - grinding seats costs nothing.

On that parts list shown above - the 128275 - 11500 'Cover' - is the added copper shim under the injector. Nice price at $4 - Yanmar UK 2 years back £ 8 !

As I may have said - I think the 1gm head is the same part no - the head gasket is not, as I think the bore is larger on the 1gm10, The head is flat so does not make a difference.

The piston on these goes halfway through the head gasket at TDC .
Top clearance is just 0.6 - 0.8mm I seem to remember.

While the head is off - check the crank. The piston at TDC needs to be above slightly the cleaned up face of the crankcase. Its not unknown, with water damage for the crank to get squashed - if water has got into the bore while running. Easy to check - very expensive to fix !
 

Venomgrass

New member
Joined
27 Aug 2015
Messages
54
Visit site
Thanks all. A new cylinder head with valves delivered is £520.

What to do... I'm concerned that I replace head and it doesn't work because the engines sat for 2 years wil raw water able to penetrate the cylinder head possibly getting into the engine block/oil and corroding inside? Any thoughts please?

I'm beginning to give up on this boat due to all the problems I'm having :(
 

RichardS

N/A
Joined
5 Nov 2009
Messages
29,236
Location
Home UK Midlands / Boat Croatia
Visit site
Thanks all. A new cylinder head with valves delivered is £520.

What to do... I'm concerned that I replace head and it doesn't work because the engines sat for 2 years wil raw water able to penetrate the cylinder head possibly getting into the engine block/oil and corroding inside? Any thoughts please?

I'm beginning to give up on this boat due to all the problems I'm having :(

It's a tricky one. There is something else wrong with the engine apart from the head. I suspect possibly quite a minor air leak in the fuel line which is stopping the engine and which you will be able to sort out once it's running.

In my view, if the engine started easily when you first tried it and you could not hear the bearings banging around and if the bore looks in good condition when you wind the piston down and if the valve springs, pushrods, rockers, valve stems etc and the other top-end internals are not rusted and if the engine generally is not rusted - alernator, water pump etc - then I definitely think it's worth buying the new head.

If the top end or the engine generally is rusted, particularly the top end gear, the I would not spend the £520 without pulling off the cylinder barrel. You will then be able to inspect the bottom end internals unless you can do this with a remote camera down the oilways from the head. At least if you remove the barrel you can not only check for rust in the cranckcase but can check the main, big end and small end bearings and check the piston face and the rings. If there is rust in the crankcase and/or the bearings are gone then the engine will have to come out and I would consider selling it on eBay for spares and, whilst it's out, replacing it with a new engine.

However, I think you'll find that the bearings are sound and the rust is surface only. You can test the bearings by holding the piston down at BDC with a wooden block and then you or someone else jiggling the crank pulley nut both ways with a spanner. If you can feel any play and certainly if you can hear any chinking, then the bearings are shot.

Richard
 

Venomgrass

New member
Joined
27 Aug 2015
Messages
54
Visit site
Thank you for that Richard I will have to check, as for the condition of the engine I've got some photos. It's slightly rusted but I was going to wire brush and paint with hammerite.

image.jpg



image.jpg
 
Last edited:

MagicalArmchair

Well-known member
Joined
11 Jan 2013
Messages
1,482
Location
Kings Hill, Chatham Marina
Visit site
...I'm beginning to give up on this boat due to all the problems I'm having :(

The more challenging the problem, the more satisfying it is when you get it solved. My old head of faculty at university used to call that moment the "Dark night of the innovator" - that's where you are. You'll get it fixed and know more about your engine that most other 1GM owners ever will, and to top it off, you'll have that eureka moment when the engine starts and you are on your way (okay, you might be bankrupt by then, but that's what boat ownership is all about :)).

Inspirational-Typography-Picture-Quote-Sailor.jpg


So in extension, Working engines don't make good engineers...?? Good luck!
 
Top