Yanmar 1GM questions

[cindersailor]

I have just purchased a second hand Yanmar 1GM (the old 7.5 Hp version, not the 1GM10) which is fitted with most of the necessary ancillaries but it needs an external voltage regulator for the 40A alternator. I am aware of the all singing/dancing ones available from Adverc, Sterling etc but I do not currently need such sophistication, and funds are running short in any case. However, I cannot find a source for anything else. Any suggestions for a bog standard 14.2 V ish regulator?

A suplementary question, does anyone know the car oil filter which corresponds to the extortionately priced Yanmar one for the 1GM? I assume it's the same as the 1GM10 as most other things seem to be.

Another one, I cannot find a zinc anode fitted anywhere for the cooling system, any ideas?

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[steve28]

mmm, i know where that engine came from.
the regulators are available made by a company called durite, it wont work with a sterling or adverc as you still need the basic reg.
the oil filter has a bypass valve inside to divert oil when it gets tired, you could get an adapter made up and unscrew the threaded piece you have at the moment. th
i was kind of doubtfull when i saw it wasnt on the engine.
the anode is above the starter motor help in by two bolts

steve



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[oilyrag]

I would take the alternator to a local auto electrician - a boat, car or lorry engine alternator are all the same to them.

Oil filter - this is often the subject of posts and I had the opportunity recently while in Holland to speak to the Yanmar European Service Manager so I asked him about this and also the most common problems associated with this engine -
He say: oil filters are made not only engine but type specific. i.e. a 1GM boat engine would have a different spec filter to a 1GM designed for a commercial application. Therefore if there are differences in relief pressures on the same basic engine, how on earth could you know that a car filter that 'fits' operates at the right pressure? Could be BS but logic dictates that £15 extra spent on filters does not add up to possible 5 years reduction in engine life!

Other advice based on engines that go through the Yanmar workshops was that you cannot change the fuel filters too often - fuel injection system wear and corrosion if you do not change them regularly.

Bore glazing - apparently the biggest problem. Again subject of debate on this forum but as far as the Yanmar engines are concerned, they are designed to operate at their rated output and running for long periods on light loads will result in bore glazing. Don't kill your engine with kindness!


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[Evadne]

The internal anode: Look for a nut and a small plate in the middle of the block, on the side somewhere below the injector/behind the alternator. From memory the plate is held on by four small set screws (8mm spanner) and the nut is on the back of the anode stud. You get a new plate gasket when you replace the anode, so don't destroy the old one if you haven't got a new one and are just taking it off for a look. Anode usually lasts 3 years plus, so I replace every 2-3 years.
Another thing to check if the engine has been laid up on a boat with water in it for a few months is that zinc salts haven't built up in the flexible pipe or its connectors between the water pump and the point where it goes into the engine block, i.e. immediately upstream of the anode.
Hope this helps

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[Peter_the_Grate]

The oil filter question came up a couple of years ago. I did a quick search of the forum and found:-
"yanmar oil filter is: Fleetguard: LF3462, Crossland 672, or Coopers Z819. Here is a useful website to get a non-OEM part number, with which you can contact any other filter manufacturer and they will give you their equivalent:
http://www.fleetguard.com/en/catalog/index.jhtml"
AND
"I don't use the yanmar filters, having found long ago that the Mazda 323 fits, is more easily available and costs 30-50% of the proprietary ones. "

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