Yank's cruise from Ramsgate to Isle of Wight

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alavarre

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Hello all. We're taking a boat from Ramsgate to the Isle of Wight and would deeply appreciate some "local knowledge". Is this the proper place to request such assistance?

I have many many questions of course, never having sailed these waters, but I'll hold off the questions until I am properly "on topic". Mostly looking for special "gotchas", recommended berthing, special pubs to visit, etc. I've got all the charts, GRIB files, seamanship pretty much in hand.

Would especially appreciate commentary on the Cowes/Beaulieu area as I plan to leave the boat there for the winter.

Thanks in advance,

Kind regards,

Andy Lavarre
M/V Pilgrim
Steel Dutch trawler
46' LOA, 4' draught
 
Hi, thanks for the lead...

I've uploaded a pic, thanks. We've been with her from Boston MA to the Marquesas FL, then shipped her to Mallorca and then all the coast of Spain, southern France, up the Rhone thence to NL, BE, and now UK. Looking to get to Isle of Wight / Southampton and then decide whether to continue to the west coast of France/Gironde, and back into the Med, or ship her back to America...

Decisions, decisions.

Thanks for the reply, Andy
 
With a boat like that I'd turn left from Ramsgate and spend the summer on the East Coast. Medway and Swale and then London for a while - you could get a fair way up the Thames with that air draft I'd have thought (though I have absolutely no knowledge of Thames bridge heights beyond looking at them).

The Crouch, Blackwater, Roach and Colne are glorious rivers that actually are as beautiful and wild as Dylan's films. Burnham (as you probably know is one of the biggest yachting towns in the UK outside the Solent). If you have time you could carry on to the Orwell and Deben and then even up to the Norfolk Broads. The wildlife, especially the birds are fantastic Away from Burnham it would probably be a lot cheaper to leave her there over winter too.

If you want to turn right then going along the South Coast most places with a 4' draught are regarded as being a little isolated until you get Chichester. The coastline is quite attractive but a little samey after a while and you don't that close in mostly plus you're in the busiest part of the English Channel for some of the journey so your eyes are everywhere except the coast.

First stop would be Dover - Dover castle is very well worth seeing, couple of thousand years old, none of your modern rubbish thank you, and developed and built on ever since right up to WWII. From Dover you can also nip across to France for a day on the train (from Folkestone, which is about 5 mile away) or by ferry. Leeds Castle, which is nowhere near Leeds, but about 30 miles or so from Dover is beautiful and worth making the effort if you like that sort of thing. You'll probably recognise it from films straight away if you see it. Bizarrely, they do (rather expensive) guided Segway tours if you're feeling lazy. From Dover you could (and really should) also do the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch Railway railway. It's a 13 1/2" (OK I googled that) steam railway but it is a fully working railway line with stations, steam locomotives and open and covered rolling stock that runs through the marshes and along the coast to Dungeness.

Dover to Chichester is a long day's run - I'd guess near 100 miles - and the entrance can be fun in the wrong circumstances. The wind is likely to be on the nose as well. It would be my next stop personally though, with Brighton and Eastbourne as alternatives if Chichester is looking a bit doubtful. Of the two Brighton is by far the better choice in terms of where to stay. Eastbourne is famous for people retiring to it in their old age whereas Brighton is famous for it's gay population and the Royal Pavillion. It's a lively place with a bit of buzz to it, especially at night, and yet mostly Victorian and Edwardian architecture and a very British seaside. There are plenty of other places to stop along the way between Dover and Chichester but, from memory, you'd be taking the ground at all of them.

OK - that's my starter. People can now leap in and correct everything I've got wrong (or just everything) and inform you more in the process.

Who wants to talk about Chichester? That's a book in itself. Actually I would recommend a good pilot book - I use The Channel Cruising Companion (which oddly enough starts at Ramsgate and covers both sides of the Channel westwards) but there are others too.
 
I have just done the same trip in a rather smaller boat. I would endorse most of GOG's comments, especially regarding Brighton as a stop-over, but then as a Londoner I regard Brighton as my own bespoke seaside town. I needed to leave the boat in the Solent for a week or two and found a cheap and secure berth at Wicor Marine at the top of Portsmouth Harbour. Only downside as far as I can see is its a bit isolated. I don't know what the options might be further up the Medina, but the marinas in Cowes are horribly bumpy and noisy and bloody expensive!
 
As an aside, motorboats can get under the bridges at the top of the Hamble, where there are a couple of mobo-specific boat yards. No idea of costs, but might be worth considering for overwintering. Close to Bursledon rail station too. Also, for overwintering, maybe yards towards the top of the Itchen at Southampton.

No idea about the size restrictions and whether your boat might succeed but an inland trip worth considering might be from Littlehampton up the R. Arun to Arundel (Castle, cricket, more antique shops than average)
 
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I would turn left

I would go left towards the East

definately - the Medway is a great river

don't miss the Thames - it passes through some glorious slices of countryside

then there is the Blackwater, the Crouch, the Colne

my guess is you culd get into some bits of the Broads - then ship it back from there

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/category/2009-season/

Blimey what am I saying

you have a mobo -although it looks like a displacement one

D
 
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Rye, Dover

dylanwinter said:
you might find a few bits of enlightenment here

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/category/2008-season/
Click to expand...

Dylan hello, thanks for this. Have spent this AM exploring these, shall follow the rest of your voyage.

Gunfire 300 days a year, guess I'll steer well clear of Dungeness! Agree that Dover is not a place for a quiet night's rest, but Rye looks promising if they have room - have emailed the Harbourmaster.

Quite brave to do this in 19 feet!

Cheers, Andy
 
prv said:
It's the proper place - and welcome :). Not sure exactly what to say that will be helpful though...

Pete
Click to expand...

Pete thanks for the welcome :-)

Well, I'm walking waypoint by waypoint along the route, googling and watching Dylan's voyage. He used a mud berth upriver at Rye, I'm looking at the page for Rye Harbour, the photo looks like just the place to be. I've been to Dover and don't think I want to go back... So have asked the Rye Harbourmaster if there will be room, but someone who has moored at Rye Harbour might comment on that, perhaps recommended dining and pub?

:-)

Cheers, Andy
 
You really shouldn't miss out on the Thames - I am guessing an air draft of around 3.4 metres or less if you came up the French canals from the Med? That takes you right up to Oxford. A few days in St Katherines, in the shadow of London Bridge and the tower is a tremendous experience.
 
going east mud adventurous coward

alavarre said:
Dylan hello, thanks for this. Have spent this AM exploring these, shall follow the rest of your voyage.

Gunfire 300 days a year, guess I'll steer well clear of Dungeness! Agree that Dover is not a place for a quiet night's rest, but Rye looks promising if they have room - have emailed the Harbourmaster.

Quite brave to do this in 19 feet!

Cheers, Andy
Click to expand...


Turn up the Thames - go up to Oxford. It is one of the Worlds great Rivers passing through on the World's great capitals.

You will understand the importance of tide when it comes to creating trade

On up to Oxford - one of britains most beautiful cities.

......... sorry guys but it beats Dover

With apologies to those who love the Solent to Foreland - the east coast has so much more to offer - especially if you are happy to take the mud.

Rye is, I will grant,
a classic - but the East Coast has Maldon, Orford, Woodbridge, Pin Mill

It has taken me two years to explore the East Coast and there are still nooks and corners I could have seen

so I am saving those for when I come back.

Can I suggest you watch the films from Ramsgate on round


http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/category/2008-season/

and then have a look at the East Coast

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/category/2009-season/

If you have the bandwidth I will PM you code so that you can access the films at full screen

As for being brave --

the brave blokes are hte RORC sailors who leave the Solent on a friday start knowing that they face a night time beat down the English Channel against a force six or worse headwind.

I have the advantage of not having a schedule - so I never have to face the shuld I/shan't I time

only once flipped over to the moderately frightened side of aprehensive once so far


film 100

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/category/2011-video-logs/

Dylan
 
Wow! A book! Thanks

grumpy_o_g said:
With a boat like that I'd turn left from Ramsgate and spend the summer on the East Coast. Medway and Swale and then London for a while - you could get a fair way up the Thames with that air draft I'd have thought (though I have absolutely no knowledge of Thames bridge heights beyond looking at them).
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll be coming *from* London. Yes there is no problem with headway below Chelsea...

grumpy_o_g said:
The Crouch, Blackwater, Roach and Colne are glorious rivers that actually are as beautiful and wild as Dylan's films. Burnham (as you probably know is one of the biggest yachting towns in the UK outside the Solent). If you have time you could carry on to the Orwell and Deben and then even up to the Norfolk Broads. The wildlife, especially the birds are fantastic Away from Burnham it would probably be a lot cheaper to leave her there over winter too.
Click to expand...

Thanks, tempting, but I'm looking further south, so will have to pass on that. I wish I were 30 years younger... :-(

grumpy_o_g said:
If you want to turn right then going along the South Coast most places with a 4' draught are regarded as being a little isolated until you get Chichester. The coastline is quite attractive but a little samey after a

First stop would be Dover - Dover castle is very well worth seeing, couple of thousand years old, none of

ferry. Leeds Castle, which is nowhere near Leeds, but about 30 miles or so from Dover is beautiful and
Click to expand...
Thanks for all that, shall investigate.

grumpy_o_g said:
Dover to Chichester is a long day's run - I'd guess near 100 miles - and the entrance can be fun in the
Click to expand...
I'm thinking Ramsgate to Rye. rye to somewhere in between. Chichester sounds fascinating.

Super reply thanks, let me digest and get back.

Cheers, Andy
 
blueglass said:
You really shouldn't miss out on the Thames - I am guessing an air draft of around 3.4 metres or less if you came up the French canals from the Med? That takes you right up to Oxford. A few days in St Katherines, in the shadow of London Bridge and the tower is a tremendous experience.
Click to expand...

sorry slight thread drift but how much water is there up river , what draft could you get that far?

Ta
 
Conachair said:
sorry slight thread drift but how much water is there up river , what draft could you get that far?

Ta
Click to expand...

As an aside, unless your talking about the headwaters, I believe the shallowest parts of the Thames River are at the top of the tideway at LWS. I've been aground just downstream of Richmond in a PLA launch - and those guys know the riverbed like the palm of their hands.
 
Conachair said:
sorry slight thread drift but how much water is there up river , what draft could you get that far?

Ta
Click to expand...

not sure exactly - fine in a mobo - we only draw 1.3 but even then you need care approaching the banks to moor on the upper (non tidal Thames). We ran aground several times and I wouldn't like to attempt it in a yacht. The Thames forum would get you more accurate info
 
Never sailed up to Rye harbour, but know it well , just over a mile fron the town quay. Mooring at R H would be near the harbourmaster's office against piles, across the river from Rye Harbour Village, you would need a fender board, I think and be prepared to take the mud, mabe you could moor up on the West side.
 
blueglass said:
You really shouldn't miss out on the Thames - I am guessing an air draft of around 3.4 metres or less if you came up the French canals from the Med? That takes you right up to Oxford. A few days in St Katherines, in the shadow of London Bridge and the tower is a tremendous experience.
Click to expand...

Yes thank you. We did get up to Marlow and then by train to Oxford. I brought all three grandchildren and their parents over. One lot rode up river, the other down... :-)

I had a picture of me at the Eagle and Child on my Facebook page until someone asked why I'd have a pic of me in a bar. I guess I didn't explain how special a pub(not bar) it is. But too hard to explain these things to some people, so I've just put up a pretty sunset. At sea on boat, of course.

:-)

http://genietvanhetleven.blogspot.com/

I've wintered at St. Kat's now for two winters and need to get on with the journey...

Cheers, Andy
 
Conachair said:
sorry slight thread drift but how much water is there up river , what draft could you get that far?

Ta
Click to expand...

I'm at 4 feet and got up to Marlow with no problem except one little patch. Perusing my log I think it was "The Cut" below Bray lock. I was headed downstream and there was a herd of boats coming upstream out of the lock. I tried to move over to let them pass and touched ground. The guy behind me became belligerent that I wouldn't proceed, to I turned round and asked him if he'd like to pass, that I was aground. Of course with the herd of boats coming up he couldn't do that either. I told the lock master when we entered, he said don't worry about it, the guy is a known grumpy local...

But other than that the trip was delightful. Wanted to show the children where "Wind in the Willows" took place...
 
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