Yammer 1GM10 inspection

DoubleEnder

DoubleEnder

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I am going to look at a boat for sale with a 1GM10, that has not been run for a year. The boat’s ashore so I can’t run the engine. What useful pointers can I look out for? I believe the engine is approximately 7 years old. So, condition of belt, look at the oil, is there something I should look at around the water pump?
Any ideas gratefully received. Thank you
 
There is an oil pipe under the water pump that you need to check. After a while the water pump leaks and drips on to the oil pipe which then corrodes, and can let oil escape at an inopportune moment. If there is sign of dripping but the oil pipe is OK it is an easy fix. There are several options for replacing the oil pipe - again simple.
 
I would want to see the engine start and run from a charged battery. Easily done by taking the intake hose off the strainer and in to a bucket of water. Owner or broker should arrange this.

Hard to check much without undoing things...anode, thermostat, impellor etc.
 
The engine is an old design and, from a friend's experience, makes a fair bit of noise and vibration, though probably not more than some other singles of its day. If smooth running and quiet operation are high priorities, you might want to look elsewhere.

Of course, it's always possible that the problems are because of the particular installation on my friend's boat, but I'd want to hear the engine running. As Ridgy says, it isn't hard to arrange. If the seller won't do it, I'd have to wonder what they were hiding.
 
For running engine whilst ashore or just flushing with fresh whilst afloat I find it easier to just undo the strainer lid & use a hose:

Fill the strainer then kink the hose to stem flow. Start engine, allow water into strainer as the level drops, it's quite easy to regulate the amount by kinking/unkinking the hose...
 
DoubleEnder said:
I am going to look at a boat for sale with a 1GM10, that has not been run for a year. The boat’s ashore so I can’t run the engine. What useful pointers can I look out for? I believe the engine is approximately 7 years old. So, condition of belt, look at the oil, is there something I should look at around the water pump?
Any ideas gratefully received. Thank you
Click to expand...
At 7 years old and if it is in a modern non leaking boat it should look pristine externally. It is a very simple engine with few weak spots. As already mentioned the water pump is not a good design and can drip causing corrosion around it. The water feed pipes up to the block and thermostat can get blocked with deposits. The anode is cunningly hidden behind the alternator and often forgotten. The exhaust elbow can suffer from internal corrosion leading to water getting back into the cylinder, but is easily checked and replaced if necessary.

As it does not have glow a plug you need a strong battery and clean electrical connections to start it, particularly in cold weather. However it does have a decompressor so useful to turn it over for a few seconds with it up to get oil circulating before starting. Although noisy and bouncy compared with a multi cylinder engine a well installed engine with good mounts and an insulated engine box makes a difference and you get used to its sound!
 
Stemar said:
The engine is an old design and, from a friend's experience, makes a fair bit of noise and vibration, though probably not more than some other singles of its day. If smooth running and quiet operation are high priorities, you might want to look elsewhere.

Of course, it's always possible that the problems are because of the particular installation on my friend's boat, but I'd want to hear the engine running. As Ridgy says, it isn't hard to arrange. If the seller won't do it, I'd have to wonder what they were hiding.
Click to expand...
Maybe the storage facility bans running engines ashore for one of several sound reasons
 
As well as the exhaust elbow, might be worth investing in a stainless version, and the oil pipe I'd also check the engine mounts, the rubber portion does not like WD40, they become slightly liquid on the surface. Generally a good engine, reliable but not quiet. The on line fuel filter is also a bit awkward to remove, there's insufficient clear space below to drop the bowl and remove the element separately. Not a show stopper just a bit of a pain until you work out to remove bowl and filter together.
 
Tranona said:
. The exhaust elbow can suffer from internal corrosion leading to water getting back into the cylinder, but is easily checked and replaced if necessary.
Click to expand...
If this happens and is undetected for a while, it can result in corrosion in the head and water getting into a nearby oil way. Thats is what happened to me and the only cure was a new head. Not wildly expensive and an easy DIY.

Its a common issue according to the dealer.
 
Birdseye said:
If this happens and is undetected for a while, it can result in corrosion in the head and water getting into a nearby oil way. Thats is what happened to me and the only cure was a new head. Not wildly expensive and an easy DIY.

Its a common issue according to the dealer.
Click to expand...
it is indeed common. however easy to check by removing the elbow, turning upside down, blocking off the injection pipe an filling the space between the inner and outer tube with water. The failure is either the weld of the inner to the flange or perforation of the inner. The aftermarket SS elbows seem to resist this more than the factory ones, although they are also stainless but maybe a different grade.
 
LittleSister said:
What are those reasons, out of curiosity?
Click to expand...
Safety
Badly supported boats on legs falling over
Inconvenient for other stored boats
Dirty exhaust etc
Are some of the most quoted reasons for not allowing plus it’s their property so what they say goes like it or not
The water management for cooling required makes it a hassle
I am not on either side of the argument but suggesting answers to the question
 
scottie said:
Safety
Badly supported boats on legs falling over
Inconvenient for other stored boats
Dirty exhaust etc
Are some of the most quoted reasons for not allowing plus it’s their property so what they say goes like it or not
The water management for cooling required makes it a hassle
I am not on either side of the argument but suggesting answers to the question
Click to expand...

I get that what boatyard says goes, and that you don't have any skin in the game, but I don't understand the logic of any of those.

Safety - In what way is it more unsafe than any of the other things you (and the boatyard) might be doing on a boat while in storage?
Badly supported boats on legs falling over - If the propping can't stand the vibration from an engine it ain't gonna stand the boat, mast etc. vibrating in the the wind for months on end, boat and props expanding and contracting with temperature change, the owners or others moving about, etc. Are bilge keelers and other boats which can't fall over exempt from the ban?
Inconvenient for other stored boats - In what way?
Dirty exhaust etc - Then ban excessively smoky exhausts, not all engines.

The water management for cooling required makes it a hassle - True, in poorly equipped yards, but that's the owner's problem, not a reason to ban it.

(Of course, always be mindful of of any nuisance to neighbours from fumes, dirt, noise, etc., but running an engine in a boatyard for a few minutes is rarely likely to be problematic.)

I'd say unless the boatyard has explicitly stated you can't run the engine, then assume you can. If they do ban it, then ask them to explain why, and politely explore whether their concerns can be overcome.
 
Yes, all those reasons are often given but none really stand up to scrutiny. Many old wives tales take on the trappings of truth if repeated often enough and then get written into terms and conditions.
 
I've never heard of that restriction in any yard that I've been in and I would ignore it anyway. If the engine needs to run for 5 mins to winterise it then is getting run.
As if anyone is going to notice or care.
 
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