Yamaha 5hp gear change difficult

ianc1200

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I have a 2 stroke 5hp Yamaha, new in 2005. Towards the end of last season, the gear change become stiffer, and I tried it out this weekend after a service by the boatyard, and it is noticeably stiffer again. Having done a thread search, somebody had the same problem on a much older 4hp, suspected lack of oil or c*@p in the gearbox. Is this the likely cause on such a newer model which has been serviced each year?

IanC
 
A problem down below with the gear box is probably not the trouble especially if it has been properly serviced. If in any doubt check the oil level and also the condition of the oil. If it is milky looking then it has water in it and the cause should be identified and rectified.

Most likely cause is that the shift lever shaft is becoming stiff in it's hole through the top of the drive shaft casing due to lack of lubrication.
You should be able to tell if the shift lever is free and the problem is lower down though. Can you waggle the lever a bit or not.

If that is the trouble it needs sorting before it seizes up totally or becomes so stiff that you break the lever.

I cannot find any info on a model as late as 2005 but it should have a grease nipple to lubricate that shaft .

If it is the same as earlier ones it will be a power head off job to sort it properly but it might be worth trying some release oil (Plus Gas or similar much better than WD40 ) and then some thin oil if you can work it free.
Shoot some extra grease in through the grease nipple too
 
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nipples

Thanks for the reply Vic, will have a good look at the points you suggest this weekend.

IanC
just to confirm what ee said .. I had a 5 yam that got a bit stiff one year while on hols circ's meant I didnt get chance to look at. Guess what, the lever snapped it was plastic. When I put a new one in that was when I noticed the grease nipple dohh!
 
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Just had a good look; the grease nipple is under the base plate so hopefully when I find my grease gun, or more likely buy another, I'll see if that resolves the problem.

IanC
 
I suspect you will need to do more than just grease it. Free it up with some release oil then grease it.

A bit of cautious warming with hot air gun might help

Should have been greased every year as part of its servicing.
Inspect it carefully if its not been greased ... no signs of fresh grease around and about .... go kick boat yard!
 
Supplementary question; should i be able to change gear when the engine's not running? Last week it was stiff to change, now seems solid, but is there some mechanism to stop changing gear when not running (like not being able to start when the gear is engaged). If not, I am in trouble!
 
I posted about the same problem around a month ago with my much older Yamaha 5, and around a year previously also, I had the O/B serviced at a price. This time, I kept moving the lever at first with a tubular spanner and have frequently kept moving it, without its aid (without the engine running). At present it is quite free. The connections were still well greased.
 
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Supplementary question; should i be able to change gear when the engine's not running?
You may not be able to engage gear when the engine is not running because the dog clutch that engages the gears may not be aligned so that one or both gears can engage (My owners manual specifically says do not attempt to engage gear when the engine is not running)
Turning the prop while operating the shift lever will solve that particular problem though.

You should be able to tell if the lever is rock solid or if it is moving freely by a small amount and then the clutch not engaging.

As an aside when engaging gear on a outboard it should be done with one snap action. If you do it gently it will knock the corners off the dogs and eventually it'll not stay engaged.
 
A happy ending!

Took the Yamaha to the boatyard today, put in their testing tank, used their powerful grease gun, and now it's as I remember it being when new. There certainly is a lock which prevents you changing the gear when not turning over (my 15hp Yamaha 2 stroke of virtually the same year does change gear when not running) .

Thanks for all the help & suggestions.

IanC
 
I was told that corrosion crushes the plastic sleeves that guide the shifting rod... have remove the top block and clean out sleeve guides?
 
I was told that corrosion crushes the plastic sleeves that guide the shifting rod
That is exactly the problem. The aluminium oxidises, expands and crushes the gear lever and bushes. Removal and clean is really the only solution. Oil or grease will not remove the expanded aluminium. Have fixed gear shift lever on a few small outboards. The single cylinder 3.5hp 2t and smaller are fairly easy as often there is an access plate to get in there to disconnect the gear shift lever and beat/lever it out. Larger engines seem to need the powerhead removing to get to the lever.
I bought a new lever and bushes for a suzuki 6. It was around £15. Little finger silky smooth gear change once done.
 
Amazed to this resurrected but by coincidence that Yamaha 5hp hasn't been started in at least ten years, probally longer. I recently got a large wheelie bin, put a timber pad on and have been playing with Seagull outboards in it. About two weeks ago thought I'd see if the Yamaha would start, and after about three pulls, using the petrol left over from when last used, it went, and the gear lever was fine too. Now have a service kit and it's going to have some love and attention.
 
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