would you use this isolator?

[symondo]

im curious if this type of isolator would be aceptable on a boat. as it fits the battery terminal, leaves minimal fitting/footprint while fitting and is also highly rated in terms of current as its a solid unit. potentially im curious as to wethe this would be a suitable option to isolate the battery im looking at using for a windlass.

 

[2Tizwoz]

The pattern you show may be ok but I have no experience. Silicone grease should keep it right.

This type is robust and compact and long lasting perhaps more fiddly.

 

[William_H]

The pattern you show may be ok but I have no experience. Silicone grease should keep it right.

This type is robust and compact and long lasting perhaps more fiddly.

As far as I can make out these connectors are for removal of the terminal and possibly battery. Are they a bit like bicycle wheel quick removal bolts?

The OP picture shows a fairly common type of battery switch. As far as I know they are quite OK . Certainly very good for multiple batteries ina parallel bank as it is easy to isolate each battery. Probably OK for normal "leave the boat isolation" if the batteries are reasonably accessible.
The gap when the switch is open is not very great so corrosion products could cause some leakage. The contact susface is simply brass on brass screwed down together.
good luck olewill

 

[VicS]

im curious if this type of isolator would be aceptable on a boat. as it fits the battery terminal, leaves minimal fitting/footprint while fitting and is also highly rated in terms of current as its a solid unit. potentially im curious as to wethe this would be a suitable option to isolate the battery im looking at using for a windlass.

I am not aware of any reasons why it would not be acceptable. There is also a version which has a fuse bridging it to maintain power to essential circuits but which will blow if any attempts is made to start the engine.

 

[symondo]

Ok seems like we may have a winner!

I'm debating using this to isolate the windlass power supply from the unit itself and have a breaker fitted down the line.

 

[2Tizwoz]

The type in the picture have a cam action making it easy to take the lead off the battery. Same effect as the pattern the OP showed but more compact and a bit fiddly. The disconnection is obvious and certain.

 

[symondo]

Well i ordered 1 lol, if its no good ive not lost a small fortune, shall report back once fitted on said circuit.

 

[colind3782]

The pattern you show may be ok but I have no experience. Silicone grease should keep it right.

This type is robust and compact and long lasting perhaps more fiddly.

Used lots of these over the years and I've found that they get brittle and break after a while. Cheap enough so I just keep replacing them. I don't use them on the boat though.

 

[Neil_Y]

The switch is OK but being on the battery do you have access to it easily and quickly? that would be my only concern. If there is ever an electrical short/fire where would you like to have a master isolator for easy access?

 

[testmonkey]

im curious if this type of isolator would be aceptable on a boat. as it fits the battery terminal, leaves minimal fitting/footprint while fitting and is also highly rated in terms of current as its a solid unit. potentially im curious as to wethe this would be a suitable option to isolate the battery im looking at using for a windlass.

as seen on the pic this isolator works for the negative battery pole but maybe won't fit on the positive side. Will you be happy to keep + side connected and only disconnect the minus side and what, if any are the consequences of doing that.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

as seen on the pic this isolator works for the negative battery pole but maybe won't fit on the positive side. Will you be happy to keep + side connected and only disconnect the minus side and what, if any are the consequences of doing that.

It doesn't really matter whether you disconnect the +ve or -ve. The effect is the same.

 

[VicS]

It doesn't really matter whether you disconnect the +ve or -ve. The effect is the same.

Not quite so handy if a BM1, or similar, battery monitor is fitted perhaps.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

Not quite so handy if a BM1, or similar, battery monitor is fitted perhaps.

Would people normally have one fitted to a windlass battery? I don't know.

For that matter I'm not sure why OP wants a separate isolator for his windlass battery. Perhaps it's just because the battery is located somewhere well forward of the main batteries?

 

[Como]

It doesn't really matter whether you disconnect the +ve or -ve. The effect is the same.

Looks to me to be on the +ve pole anyway.

 

[sailorman]

as seen on the pic this isolator works for the negative battery pole but maybe won't fit on the positive side. Will you be happy to keep + side connected and only disconnect the minus side and what, if any are the consequences of doing that.

it makes no difference which is disconnected

 

[VicS]

Looks to me to be on the +ve pole anyway.

No its the negative. If you take the image into Photoshop and play with the lighting you will clearly see the - sign on the battery top

 

[sailorman]

No its the negative. If you take the image into Photoshop and play with the lighting you will clearly see the - sign on the battery top

i can see it with out photoshop :encouragement:

 

[testmonkey]

So before the forum declares this as a great budget alternative to conventional battery isolators probably worth adding that this type of isolator is great for agricultural or automotive use cases where equipment is not used for long times. Drawback in boat related use is that it's not ignition protected at all. I have one of these (not in a boat), and it takes a couple of turns to to connect the battery. When connecting/disconnecting I can see blue sparks flying. Up to the individual to consider if that matters, noting that in closed battery compartments hydrogen gases may be present. If battery ventilation is properly done this should not be the case but DIY practical boat applications may sometimes be lacking in this aspect.

 

[symondo]

So before the forum declares this as a great budget alternative to conventional battery isolators probably worth adding that this type of isolator is great for agricultural or automotive use cases where equipment is not used for long times. Drawback in boat related use is that it's not ignition protected at all. I have one of these (not in a boat), and it takes a couple of turns to to connect the battery. When connecting/disconnecting I can see blue sparks flying. Up to the individual to consider if that matters, noting that in closed battery compartments hydrogen gases may be present. If battery ventilation is properly done this should not be the case but DIY practical boat applications may sometimes be lacking in this aspect.

ive not fitted the item yet but once i had recieved it - it wasnt quite as id expected due to the way you have to turn it - i dont know why i epxected it to turn a 1/2 turn and be done. but for the sake of a few quid I'll give it a go.

We have all our battery boxes vented from previous fitment but have recently installed sealed batteries. However althought you'd expect some form of charge upon connection - bigger sparks would generally indicate constant current draw which to me would indicate something is wrong. for example when you hook up battery terminals you usually get a minimal spark for anything thats on a constant live but most switched circuits should not give a spark if the circuit is 'off'

 

[VicS]

So before the forum declares this as a great budget alternative to conventional battery isolators probably worth adding that this type of isolator is great for agricultural or automotive use cases where equipment is not used for long times. Drawback in boat related use is that it's not ignition protected at all. I have one of these (not in a boat), and it takes a couple of turns to to connect the battery. When connecting/disconnecting I can see blue sparks flying. Up to the individual to consider if that matters, noting that in closed battery compartments hydrogen gases may be present. If battery ventilation is properly done this should not be the case but DIY practical boat applications may sometimes be lacking in this aspect.

ive not fitted the item yet but once i had recieved it - it wasnt quite as id expected due to the way you have to turn it - i dont know why i epxected it to turn a 1/2 turn and be done. but for the sake of a few quid I'll give it a go.

We have all our battery boxes vented from previous fitment but have recently installed sealed batteries. However althought you'd expect some form of charge upon connection - bigger sparks would generally indicate constant current draw which to me would indicate something is wrong. for example when you hook up battery terminals you usually get a minimal spark for anything thats on a constant live but most switched circuits should not give a spark if the circuit is 'off'

I cansee that some sparking may occur if one of these is used on a modern , or even not so modern, vehicle where there are various circuits that normally remain powered up. Clock, remote locking, alarm, radio memory etc. However in the boat if everything is switched off there should be no sparking.
In a vehicle the sparking could be avoided if the switch is fitted with the optional small bypass fuse. Perhaps less attractive in the boat but the same could nevertheless be done