Would you buy this ball valve?

coopec

coopec

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QUALITY POINTS OF DIFFERENCE

Unlike most Chinese and Taiwanese flanged floating ball valves, APV flanged and buttweld ball valves are manufactured in accordance with ASME/ANSI, API608 and API6D requirements for standards such as wall thickness, flange thickness, and bolting. Most Taiwanese and Chinese ball valves (particularly in Stainless Steel body) are light pattern and despite documentation showing applicable standards, the joining body flange and/or end flange thickness often does not conform to ASME/ANSI B16. Also, the wall thickness of the body itself often does not conform to ASME B16 wall.

http://www.australianpipelinevalve.com.au/Products/Fire_Safe_Ball_Valve.aspx
 
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Well I was the successful bidder for the ball valve at $13.50 (plus postage of $17). I just hope it fits my through hull fitting.

Before I increased my bid I checked around for the best price from some of the chandlers. I could have got a bronze valve for about $45 but being a metal dissimilar to stainless the guy said it would require "bonding". Wilson Marines SS ball valves are $67 (but not the same as the 3 piece I bought). Process Systems sell and identical valve to mine for $113

The important point the guy at Wilson's made is that insurance companies won't insure the boat if there are nylon ball valves below the water-line. He said they have only cracked down over the last few years.
 
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If I wanted a 1¼" stainless steel ballvalve to use below the waterline I would buy one from a reputable Uk supplier.

It would look like this
405756_3.jpg

I would know that it had a 1¼" BSP thread. It would cost around the equivalent of AU $100

In reality I would probably buy a corrosion resistant / DZR brass valve and skin fitting or, as I have a GRP boat, possibly a reinforced polymer valve and skin fitting such as Marelon or Trudesign
 
coopec said:
But in regard to the ball valve what is the internal diameter measurement of the female thread...?

The important point the guy at Wilson's made is that insurance companies won't insure the boat if there are nylon ball valves below the water-line. He said they have only cracked down over the last few years.
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BSP dimensions in the table here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe

Things may be different in Oz, but I've never heard the faintest suggestion in Europe of insurers rejecting composite plastic valves/skin fittings such as Forespar or TruDesign. If your man from Wilsons meant these when dismissing them as mere 'nylon', I'd suggest he didn't know what he was talking about. Since both are certified by ABYC (and others), I doubt any insurer could legitimately forbid their use.
 
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That ball valve pictured is identical to the type of valve they sell at Whitworths Marine. The Brass ball valve is only around $45.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_searchresults.asp

View attachment 57440

Well the composite valves look solid but the guy at Wilsons Marine said that it had to be brass or SS'. He said I won't be able to insure the yacht unless it has brass or SS.

I'm just doing some research on survey requirements and came across this.

"Just saved my old little yacht from sinking! Got a call on Friday and a text pic of my old girl going down! Got my emergancy response team onto the job to pump her out! Booked a flight and got to the location Within 2 hours. when I got there she had a gut full of water again. (battery was under water and waterline level at the top of bunks. Found the leak at the 1/2 inch bronze elbow broken off where the raw water s/s sea cock WAS attached. Shipwrights where paid to fit new skinfittings and seacocks 8 years ago. We where discraced they fitted 2 different disfamiluer metals! plugged the hole with a timber plug! (now I understand why you should have them aboard!)


 
Macd

We were discussing different types of ball valve construction: he didn't specifically exclude composite Maybe they don't sell them anyway so it wasn't an option?

I have already downloaded that pipe thread size chart and intend to have it laminated

Thanks

Clive

PS I just found many advertisements for composite ball valves and they all say "to Survey Standard"I
 
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coopec said:
Well the composite valves look solid but the guy at Wilsons Marine said that it had to be brass or SS'. He said I won't be able to insure the yacht unless it has brass or SS.[/I]
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Rather than take the word of the guy at Wilsons Marine*, I suggest you ask your insurers, and specifically about Marelon or glass-reinforced nylon valves and fittings rather than mere nylon. The image you posted is a TruDesign valve, made in NZ of the latter. It's certifications are listed here: http://www.trudesignplastics.com/marine/certifications

Incidentally, brass is not a particularly good material for seacock assemblies, whether bonded or not, although it is widely used. In the UK those in the know prefer DZR (dezincification-resistant) brass. This isn't generally available outside the UK, but may be sold in Oz (where I think I've read it's marked 'DR', as opposed to 'CR' here). Good info here: https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/BrassandBronze.aspx
While you're there you might also have a look at the page on crevice corrosion in stainless steels.

P.S. It seems that I was still typing post #8 after you'd done #7, which I've only just seen. Good luck.

* If he is right, he should take a bow. I can't recall the last time I met anyone working in a chandlery who had more than the faintest clue about the yellow metals he sold.
 
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Hi Clive

The first ball valve you posted I would use for internal shutoff. I would not use it as a seacock.

The 3 part (bolt together) I have used then for all my seacock fittings all are stamped 316.

As far a glass reinforced ball valves having a steel boat I consider that they are a week link as if I had a fire the valves would melt and sink my boat. On a GRP boat this is not an issue as fire would destroy the hull anyway.

I would use PVC valves for internal shutoffs as they are not a critical safety item .
 
Yes, Roger I am more than happy to stick with the 316 Stainless Steel valve I bought on eBay.

I'm going to get the full bore hose barb even if I have to go to the crowd you referred to but that would mean a 60 km round trip. But there will be a number of resellers North of Perth who will have them I'm sure.

I've decided to use PVC valves on my freshwater inlet hose so that I can direct water into my three main tanks as required so the PVC valve I have won't go astray.

Clive
 
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