Worth sending waterproofs back to Musto?

At last my Grangers Performance Wash has arrived from Amazzzzzzzon.
Jacket and sallopettes in the tub now.

BUT,
I gather from folk here about that the garments should be sprayed with the Xtreme Repel when damp then tumble-dried. Yet the ticket on the garments say not to TD.

Any thoughts? Fan heater, hair dryer/hot-air-gun (laborious!), airing cupboard, whatever??
Or tumble-dry in any case?

Ta.
 
Robert Wilson said:
At last my Grangers Performance Wash has arrived from Amazzzzzzzon.
Jacket and sallopettes in the tub now.

BUT,
I gather from folk here about that the garments should be sprayed with the Xtreme Repel when damp then tumble-dried. Yet the ticket on the garments say not to TD.

Any thoughts? Fan heater, hair dryer/hot-air-gun (laborious!), airing cupboard, whatever??
Or tumble-dry in any case?

Ta.
Click to expand...

Allow to dry outside if you can, then iron using a peice of a4 under the iron to prevent it sticking.
 
Robert Wilson said:
At last my Grangers Performance Wash has arrived from Amazzzzzzzon.
Jacket and sallopettes in the tub now.

BUT,
I gather from folk here about that the garments should be sprayed with the Xtreme Repel when damp then tumble-dried. Yet the ticket on the garments say not to TD.

Any thoughts? Fan heater, hair dryer/hot-air-gun (laborious!), airing cupboard, whatever??
Or tumble-dry in any case?

Ta.
Click to expand...

The water repellent is simply to bead the water and stop the clothes becoming heavy (as I am sure you know).

Even if no water repellent was used, the Goretex membrane should stop you getting wet.

If the garment states not to tumble dry, I would be afraid of damaging the membrane.

I know applying heat activates many of the spray on treatments, but I would be wary of doing it by any method at the expense of damaging the Goretex. People have stated that Musto have good customer service so maybe a phone call to ask them if heat application is ok would be useful?

Would be interested to know the outcome and good luck.
 
Sailingsaves said:
The water repellent is simply to bead the water and stop the clothes becoming heavy (as I am sure you know).

Even if no water repellent was used, the Goretex membrane should stop you getting wet.

If the garment states not to tumble dry, I would be afraid of damaging the membrane.

I know applying heat activates many of the spray on treatments, but I would be wary of doing it by any method at the expense of damaging the Goretex. People have stated that Musto have good customer service so maybe a phone call to ask them if heat application is ok would be useful?

Would be interested to know the outcome and good luck.
Click to expand...

Thereby goes the fool of the year. I have already washed (in detergent) and tumble-dried the gear, so I assumed I had damaged the Goretex. Testing, (after spraying with Gill aerosol) by standing in the shower I quickly realised the garments were not repelling water.
So, I guess from your remark that I have indeed wrecked the Goretex, and no end of "re-proofing" by washing/spraying will have any beneficial effect?
Then posting earlier on this thread it was suggested I wash in ordinary soap, then re-proof.
 
Robert if you look on the Gore Tex web site there is information from the material manufacturer on how to clean, proof and decontaminate the material.
The Musto web site instructions should defer to W L Gore for care of the fabric.
The normal reason for not Tumble Drying is that the seal sealing tape can lift off, thus leaking at the seams.
 
Robert Wilson said:
Thereby goes the fool of the year. I have already washed (in detergent) and tumble-dried the gear, so I assumed I had damaged the Goretex. Testing, (after spraying with Gill aerosol) by standing in the shower I quickly realised the garments were not repelling water.
So, I guess from your remark that I have indeed wrecked the Goretex, and no end of "re-proofing" by washing/spraying will have any beneficial effect?
Then posting earlier on this thread it was suggested I wash in ordinary soap, then re-proof.
Click to expand...

To test the Goretex, this is what I do:

Place garment over an empty bowl and depress the garment to leave a place to dribble a cup of water. If nothing comes through, the goretex is ok. You can use a lot more water if you want to increase the weight (of the water puddle) and check that water still does not penetrate membrane and enter bowl. If the water wicks up the fabric, sure the beading is not working, but if nothing comes through, simply spray with a silicone based repellent.

I am a skinflint by necessity and buy all my gear second hand. Sometimes goretex has failed so I simply reproof it to bead the water off and then I have a lightweight garment that is ok. If goretex is ok but beading does not work, garment may become heavy with water but I will stay dry thanks to goretex (then I try the silicone spray - purchased from cheap shops such as Aldi in a spray can).

Try the bowl experiment and good luck.
 
Mister E said:
Robert if you look on the Gore Tex web site there is information from the material manufacturer on how to clean, proof and decontaminate the material.
The Musto web site instructions should defer to W L Gore for care of the fabric.
The normal reason for not Tumble Drying is that the seal sealing tape can lift off, thus leaking at the seams.
Click to expand...

I'll go to their site, thanks.

I have two other jackets (ski and walking) subjected to the same erroneous treatment so I am keen to try anything.
If only I'd properly understood the error of my uninformed desire to be clean and bright!!

Sailingsaves said:
To test the Goretex, this is what I do:

Place garment over an empty bowl and depress the garment to leave a place to dribble a cup of water. If nothing comes through, the goretex is ok. You can use a lot more water if you want to increase the weight (of the water puddle) and check that water still does not penetrate membrane and enter bowl. If the water wicks up the fabric, sure the beading is not working, but if nothing comes through, simply spray with a silicone based repellent.

I am a skinflint by necessity and buy all my gear second hand. Sometimes goretex has failed so I simply reproof it to bead the water off and then I have a lightweight garment that is ok. If goretex is ok but beading does not work, garment may become heavy with water but I will stay dry thanks to goretex (then I try the silicone spray - purchased from cheap shops such as Aldi in a spray can).

Try the bowl experiment and good luck.
Click to expand...

That sounds a good way to start to get to the bottom of the situation - much more enjoyable than standing in a shower - and feeling a twit!!

Thanks
 
A gentle tumble dry should not damage the GoreTex lining ........ see the drying instructions on the GoreTex site
http://www.gore-tex.co.uk/remote/Satellite/content/care/washing-instructions

I had a gentle tumble dry after a wash and reproof was a necessary thing - certainly my Musto GoreTex oilskins and GoreTex walking coat were treated this way in the spring and were much better than before
 
Hmm.

My Musto jacket is no longer waterproof. It's about 5 years old. I expected it to last longer and I had resigned myself to getting a new one from someone else but after reading this maybe I'll consult Musto.

I bought it at the shop at Kip Marina but I don't have the receipt any more.

PS I also have what was a very expensive Berghaus goretex jacket that has gone the same way; and a previous, cheaper, goretex jacket became useless after a year or so. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed.
 
Zen Zero said:
Hmm.

My Musto jacket is no longer waterproof. It's about 5 years old. I expected it to last longer and I had resigned myself to getting a new one from someone else but after reading this maybe I'll consult Musto.

I bought it at the shop at Kip Marina but I don't have the receipt any more.

PS I also have what was a very expensive Berghaus goretex jacket that has gone the same way; and a previous, cheaper, goretex jacket became useless after a year or so. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed.
Click to expand...

Good luck. I've just sent mine back to Musto (this morning). They're going to check the membrane and report.
I have all fingers and toes crossed !!

Musto are a good bunch to deal with.
 
Zen Zero said:
Hmm.

My Musto jacket is no longer waterproof. It's about 5 years old. I expected it to last longer and I had resigned myself to getting a new one from someone else but after reading this maybe I'll consult Musto.

I bought it at the shop at Kip Marina but I don't have the receipt any more.

PS I also have what was a very expensive Berghaus goretex jacket that has gone the same way; and a previous, cheaper, goretex jacket became useless after a year or so. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed.
Click to expand...

Wonder what you are doing wrong with your kit? My Musto Goretex oillies are older than that, and my Goretex walking coat well over 10 years old (used regularly), both still working fine, after one reproofing
 
dunedin said:
Wonder what you are doing wrong with your kit? My Musto Goretex oillies are older than that, and my Goretex walking coat well over 10 years old (used regularly), both still working fine, after one reproofing
Click to expand...

We don't know how much wear the kit has had. The poster may say 5 years of use but is that 5 years of use as a professional sailor or weekend sailor? Goretex is after all a very fragile membrane and in branded kit the layer is thin (as opposed to military kit where the membrane is thicker - yes I measured it - and military kit is better is better in so many other ways too. Hence why some manufacturers of branded kit state that garments should be rolled as opposed to folded. Military dry suits simply last 'forever' and neck seals and wrist seals fail before goretex membrane does.

I know a professional skipper that gets through one MPX suit a year.

Goretex is very over-rated in non-military kit. Other breathable materials are taking a slice of the market. Mountain kit is pretty good (Berghaus jackets I don't class as 'real' mountain kit)
 
Sailingsaves said:
We don't know how much wear the kit has had. The poster may say 5 years of use but is that 5 years of use as a professional sailor or weekend sailor? Goretex is after all a very fragile membrane and in branded kit the layer is thin (as opposed to military kit where the membrane is thicker - yes I measured it - and military kit is better is better in so many other ways too. Hence why some manufacturers of branded kit state that garments should be rolled as opposed to folded. Military dry suits simply last 'forever' and neck seals and wrist seals fail before goretex membrane does.

I know a professional skipper that gets through one MPX suit a year.

Goretex is very over-rated in non-military kit. Other breathable materials are taking a slice of the market. Mountain kit is pretty good (Berghaus jackets I don't class as 'real' mountain kit)
Click to expand...

That's 5 years of almost daily use throughout the winter.

Musto's legendary customer service have stepped in with a potential solution, I'll keep yousall posted.

Regarding the Berghaus coat - I'm about due a new one, what do you class "real" mountain kit, Sailingsaves?

Thanks, everyone, for the great advice!
 
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