Wooden restoration

If I remember rightly, the Honeybee was the winner in a Glasgow Herald design competition. Depending on who built her, the seams may be splined rather than caulked above the waterline.

As has been said before, epoxy and polyurethane must be used with caution on older boats. They may not have the flexibility to cope with the natural expansion and movement that will take place, and they may seal the wood and prevent the necessary expansion taking place, or encourage rot
 
Thanks Wight, the honeybee came second in the £1000 Glasgow herald competition in 1958. The only reason the design did not win was that the judges felt that it would not be possible to complete her for less than the £1000 limit. The winner was a buccanan design. I will have a good look at the seams when I get all the paint off and get her into the shed out of the rain for a good rub down. Do you know if it would be wise to use a treatment of some sort anywhere a small amount of rot has been hoked out? I was just thinking that when I redid my sash windows at home I took the worst of the rot out then treated with wood hardener and then used filler. I was also considering where there is a small thread of rot in the middle of a plank can I cut it out and scarf in a fresh piece? It may be better removing the whole plank but this could be quite a big job? I have just started a google site up and I intend to post the project on their. I will link from here when I get some stuff on it.
 
Ah yes, second. I wonder if the Lorne class won? I was still at school at that time and had not yet taken up sailing. I was more into rowing.

As to the repair, I have sceptical views on wood hardeners. although I have used them in places where nearly all the soft wood had been removed and the remainder was going to be impossible to replace (by me anyway.) I do use a preservative however and have found that Aerodux (resorcinol glue) and epoxy seem to stick well to treated wood. The idea of graving in a piece of new wood into a plank is often used and gives a good repair. I used it to good effect on decks, holding the graving piece in place with brass panel pins. N.B. these are solid brass, not plated steel and are sometimes called marine pins. They are set with a nail punch and I found that they did not knacker the tungsten blade of my planer as I leveled off the graving piece to the surrounding wood.
 
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