Wood treatment

What should be used to treat new wood

  • Sadolin

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Two pack varnish

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Other - please specify

    Votes: 6 60.0%
  • Total voters
    10
  • Poll closed .
Athene V30

Athene V30

Well-Known Member
Joined
20 Sep 2001
Messages
5,451
Location
Playa del Ingles, Gran Canaria in Winter, the boat
Visit site
I have had a main hatch 'garage' made out of wood (iroko and marine ply)

Before fitting it to boat what does the panel suggest I use on it?

I had been considering using Sadolin as I like the easy style to maintain the finish (low sheen etc) but it has been suggested I should use a two pack varnish.
 
Karouise said:
I have had a main hatch 'garage' made out of wood (iroko and marine ply)

Before fitting it to boat what does the panel suggest I use on it?

I had been considering using Sadolin as I like the easy style to maintain the finish (low sheen etc) but it has been suggested I should use a two pack varnish.
Click to expand...

sikkens Cetol is well recommended & easy to re-coat
suggest light colours as not to stain the wood dark
my mate Bob uses it & hes fussy :eek:
 
Our local builder for new wood exposed to the elements, (he made me some lovely locker lids), coats with epoxy then 2 pot varnish to give sheen and UV protective finish.
 
Well sorry to disagree. Two pot varnish doesn't seem to me to have much UV protection. My coachroof sides are bleaching quite quickly compared to the gunn'les where I used Blakes Classic. I think the 2 pot gloss is not a patch on the one pot stuff put on nicely. In fact its the most uninspiring stuff to put on. If the hatch is liable to any movement (of the timber I mean) then two pot is not the stuff to use. BUt I have to admit for sheer toughness two pot is the business and it lasts much longer than the one pot. If it fails though it peels off in strips. I intend never ever to touch the stuff again. Oh and I tried the epoxy first idea once - never again. Hempel Woodseal is not a bad primer coat for bare timber. It's a bit wasteful though as once the air gets at it, it sets and this tends to gum up the lid. Best advice from Blakes was to punch two holes in the bottom, take out what you need and use tape to seal the two holes until needing another go. Yes all a bit bizarre.

Sorry to swim against the tide.
 
Novatech

I'm a Sikkens Cetol Novatech convert.

It doesn't have "marine" in the title and is therefore cheap
It goes on really easily - sponge on two coats - de-nib - brush on top coat
According to Classic Boat it last 5 years - certainly is holding up well for me
... and it's dead easy to patch repair each year where abraded

I've done the whole boat. I was going to do the internal work next year with traditional varnish as this doesn't get the UV etc. but actually - you know what - I prefer the semi sheen of the woodstain and like to feel the wood so it's going on the inside too!
 
tillergirl said:
What do I know about varnishing anyway? I've done it every year for 27 years and its still not right.
Click to expand...

I'm with you. I hate two pot stuff. Hard as nails, chips, difficult to touch up, a bugger to sand. I use single pot alkyd everytime. Tried the epoxy the UV over coat, wasn't any better than just using varnish.

If you want your varnish to last put on lots of coats from scratch and then 2-3 coats every year. It's the dents and scratches that kill varnish, not generally the UV, in England any way. I doubled the above when varnishing in Oz and would do the same if I was in the med, but I've only been doing it for 23 years.
:)
 
I saw the chap who was making it while I popped into Morgans the other day. I was very impressed with the workmanship, and it looked really good.

I went over to introduce myself thinking it was you, but it was the chippie! :o


regards

Ian

p.s. I like to see varnish, but......:eek:
 
Last edited:
I'd go for one coat of Sikken HLS Plus (which is the basecoat), and two coats of Sikkens Filter 7, using in both cases the lightest stain, pine or deal.

IanC
 
tillergirl said:
What do I know about varnishing anyway? I've done it every year for 27 years and its still not right.
Click to expand...

One thing that I have noticed is that the wood species introduces another variable with varnish and stains.

I renewed a mahogany toe rail but did the stern with a bit of iroko. All lovely new wood to start with. Used posh varnish with quite a few coats that barely lasted a season.

Scrapped it all off and used Sickens Cetol which I have used in other places/woods with great success. It now looks diabolical after a year but the Iroko bit is pretty good.

Do you think I should start with Blakes Woodseal first ?
 
I am a fan of Woodseal so would say yes, but I have no experience of putting Sikkens over it. Isn't Sikkens one of those absorbent coatings that needs to go on bare wood like Deks Ole. In which case no.

Oh dear that wasn't very helpful was it?
 
tillergirl said:
I am a fan of Woodseal so would say yes, but I have no experience of putting Sikkens over it. Isn't Sikkens one of those absorbent coatings that needs to go on bare wood like Deks Ole. In which case no.

Oh dear that wasn't very helpful was it?
Click to expand...

No . That's very helpful. Have heard good reports about Woodseal and will certainly give it a go now.

Pretty sure that Sikkens can only go on bare wood.

Regards,
 
Many thnaks for all the comments and advice particularly from those who have been caring for wooden boats for many years!

Speaking with the chippie yesterday he agreed that the 2 pack varnish was not a good option for maintaining the finish and in view of this and the variety of 'other' suggestions I have gone down the sadolin route.

The only regret I have having applied 'teak' is that I should have chosen a much lighter colour - it is very dark but once the rest of the wood (toerail cap and grab rails) is done to match it'll look fine!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top