Wood treatment stuff that soaks in and sets and makes it waterproof.

[CaptainBob]

My first boat had in its locker a bottle of this "paint" that was very low viscosity and when painted on to even non-dry wood got soaked well in and set - making the wood very well sealed. It was a very very dark brown colour. A bit like creosote really.

My current boat has an unvarnished unpainted teak wooden sliding sunroof and it drips when it's been raining a while and I'm wondering if there's something similar I can just daub on that'll get soaked up and fill the cracks/gaps - but without changing the colour of the wood to dark brown. They're very small gaps/cracks.

Any suggestions? (other than replacing it)

 

[2Tizwoz]

Epoxy it

You could coat it with epoxy then varnish for UV protection.

These people sell the resin and I found them straightforward to deal with

The thin resin can penetrate best. Wetting the wood beforehand may give you an idea of whether it will stay looking light or turn dark when the resin is applied.

 

[prv]

Was the stuff in the locker perhaps teak oil? Seems to fit your description, and I don't know of any paint that could be called "very low viscosity".

Something like:

?

Pete

 

[Lakesailor]

But it's bound to change the colour.

Once the decayed wood has been removed
the surrounding areas should be strengthened
using Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener,
which is applied by brush until the fibres of the
wood are completely saturated, but do not
apply an excess of Ronseal Wet Rot Wood
Hardener so that it forms a surface film.
Additional in-depth reinforcement can be
effected by pouring the hardener into small
pre-drilled holes. This quick drying liquid is a
combination of deep penetrating solvents and
special resins. When applied to fibrous wood
it sets and binds it to form an excellent base
for further repair.
Allow to harden for at least 6 hours, preferably
overnight. Remove any surface deposit

I've used it on old window frames and it is remarkable.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Git Rot is an American Product that we found on a yacht (that was rotting) in abundance.

Some info from Wooden Boat: -

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?105824-smiths-penetrating-epoxy-and-git-rot

Hope this helps.

 

[neilf39]

Ronseal wet rot wood hardener. It soaks in and then sets rock hard. It is quite effective on softened wood. Not sure what it would do to a normal piece of hardwood as it would set before it soaked in much.

 

[machurley22]

Ronseal wet rot wood hardener

I've used this to good effect too but it's really for rotten wood and I'm not sure that this is the problem described in the OP. I'm not sure what a sunroof is either so I may be barking up the wrong tree altogether but I think we need more info about how the water is coming in - and pics too ideally.

 

[Lakesailor]

Ronseal wet rot wood hardener. It soaks in and then sets rock hard. It is quite effective on softened wood. Not sure what it would do to a normal piece of hardwood as it would set before it soaked in much.

Must be different from the one I posted about.

 

[Pasarell]

Almost certainly a moisture cured urethane. International used to have one called Universal Clear Primer but I think they've stopped it now. Ronseal wood hardener would be the same if it's single pack. Very good products but structural strength will always be suspect if the wood is rotten.
Teak oil will do nothing, not even waterproof the surface. Good Danish Oil does have a litt l e resin but not enough to be effective.

 

[Tranona]

Think you are referring to Capt Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. If your teak hatch has poorly fitted joints that are leaking then nothing will fix them permanently Capt Tolleys will seal fine cracks, but in reality you need to look at how the joints are made and if necessary strip and rebuild the hatch using a good adhesive for the joints. Bit vague, but it really depends on how it is made - painting "goop" of any sort will not solve the problem.

 

[Elessar]

My first boat had in its locker a bottle of this "paint" that was very low viscosity and when painted on to even non-dry wood got soaked well in and set - making the wood very well sealed. It was a very very dark brown colour. A bit like creosote really.

My current boat has an unvarnished unpainted teak wooden sliding sunroof and it drips when it's been raining a while and I'm wondering if there's something similar I can just daub on that'll get soaked up and fill the cracks/gaps - but without changing the colour of the wood to dark brown. They're very small gaps/cracks.

Any suggestions? (other than replacing it)

how about http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html

 

[CaptainBob]

Hi, thanks for the replies.

It's the sunroof on a Nauticat 38. It looks in really good condition and has not leaked before in my presence, but after the recent prolonged rains the wood inside in a couple of places started to darken and then eventually a couple of drips formed. I figured an easy fix would be possible using something a bit less messy than Tolley's, which I figured would be no good on wood anyway - especially damp (now) wood.

I have a feeling I still have the old bottle of 'stuff' in a locker somewhere so I'll dig it out and tell you what it was when I'm next on the boat. It was really good stuff but I can't remember the name.

Will look into some of the suggestions.

Thanks again,

 

[Tommyrot]

Varnol?

 

[Lakesailor]

Almost certainly a moisture cured urethane. International used to have one called Universal Clear Primer but I think they've stopped it now.

I think you are right. It was terrific stuff as it not only sealed the wood but actually left a pretty decent finish on it.

 

[FishyInverness]

Burgess Wood Sealer and/or Hydroclear?

Alternatively, I would have thought Deks Olje No.1

 

[PhillM]

Ronseal wet rot wood hardener. It soaks in and then sets rock hard. It is quite effective on softened wood. Not sure what it would do to a normal piece of hardwood as it would set before it soaked in much.

+ 1 for Ronseal. Works wonders on Mahogony.

 

[DanTribe]

I think you are right. It was terrific stuff as it not only sealed the wood but actually left a pretty decent finish on it.

I thought UCP was 'orrible stuff.
I used it on a bulkhead and some washboards. It was OK for a couple of years, but eventually the wood moved and the UCP didn't, so formed cracks along the grain.
Stripping it off was a nightmare, Nitromors had no effect and hot air gun just made it a bit dusty.
I finished up painting the bulkhead and making new washboards.

 

[Captain Coochie]

I have a feeling I still have the old bottle of 'stuff' in a locker somewhere so I'll dig it out and tell you what it was when I'm next on the boat. It was really good stuff but I can't remember the name.

Probably shellac or knotting .

 

[KAL]

I would have said Deks Olje D1. Your description sounds like exactly what it does.

 

[Tranona]

Hi, thanks for the replies.

It's the sunroof on a Nauticat 38. It looks in really good condition and has not leaked before in my presence, but after the recent prolonged rains the wood inside in a couple of places started to darken and then eventually a couple of drips formed. I figured an easy fix would be possible using something a bit less messy than Tolley's, which I figured would be no good on wood anyway - especially damp (now) wood.

I have a feeling I still have the old bottle of 'stuff' in a locker somewhere so I'll dig it out and tell you what it was when I'm next on the boat. It was really good stuff but I can't remember the name.

Will look into some of the suggestions.

Thanks again,

It seems that a joint has failed - you don't say how it is constructed. By their nature leaks can originate a long way from where they show themselves on the inside - one of the reasons why Capt Tolleys is attractive, it follows the path of the water. With teak, would not worry about rot in the short term and trying to seal it when damp is not a good idea as you are sealing in the moisture. Best to wait until July when the sun might shine and dry everything out, then you can track down the failed joint. There are many different ways of repairing it that depend on knowing where it is and the way it was constructed. Get it right, though and you only need to do the job once.