Wood rot

Graham_Wright

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I have found a sneak route for grey water from its tank into a floor which has caused some rot. The floor is actually one end of the engine bearer frame.

Fortunately, the affected area is above the critical strength region but, having cut out the rotten area, I would like to impregnate the surrounding with a penetrating sealer to kill off any fungus.

Any recommendations please?
 

coopec

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There is a lot of misinformation out their being spread by people with a little knowledge so be careful. I don't claim to be expert but may years ago I found some articles written by experts and I'll see if I can find them now

There is Polypropylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol. Ethylene Glycol is used as a coolant in your motor car and it is dangerous to health. Polypropylene Glycol is not dangerous and is in fact added to such things as toothpaste.

Jan 23, 2014 - Ethylene glycol ... Target Organ Effect, Harmful by ingestion., Teratogen ... Hazardous decomposition products formed under fire conditions.
NOTE Ingestion means swallowing or absorbing.

Borax can also be used. Now to find the article!

AND here is the article!

http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html



How to Apply Antifreeze to Dry Rot
By Nicole Fotheringham
eHow
Antifreeze, boric powder and boric acid can be effectively used to eradicate and prevent rot in wood. Boric acid and glycol are both toxic to a wide range of fungi, organisms and insects that perpetuate rot in wood. Antifreeze can have two active ingredients: either ethylene glycol or propylene glycol. Since ethylene glycol can cause damage to the heart, nervous system and kidneys through prolonged exposure, you should consider propylene glycol your only option.

https://www.ehow.com/how_8306812_apply-antifreeze-dry-rot.html
 
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rogerthebodger

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I have found a sneak route for grey water from its tank into a floor which has caused some rot. The floor is actually one end of the engine bearer frame.

Fortunately, the affected area is above the critical strength region but, having cut out the rotten area, I would like to impregnate the surrounding with a penetrating sealer to kill off any fungus.

Any recommendations please?

I've used a penetrating epoxy to soak into a soft wood to seal and strengthen it.

I used to use Cuprinol Wood Preserver Clear to kill rot when I was repairing my timber boats in the UK.
 

ianat182

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Just been out to the garage to check- its" EVERBUILD WOOD HARDENER FOR WET ROT for wet rot"Deep penetrating formula;Reinforces decaying wood and provides ideal base for Everbuild 2-part wood fillers.
i purchased at my local POUNDWISE Shop in Portchester for £6.99 and used it to seal a faux fascia on our park home, backing a plastic outer moulding. It really does absorb the resin and waterproofs it. Suitable for interior or exterior application.

try a google for www.everbuild.co.uk
-located in LEEDS.

ianat182
 

coopec

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If you do a google ( penetrating epoxy) you'll find some information there as well as some video clips!
 

jwilson

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I wouldn't let any of the "wet rot wood hardeners" anywhere near wood on a boat, certainly not on anything even remotely structural. Most are just thinned cellulose lacquer. I've used them plus filler often as a good temporary bodge for old house window frames pending a proper repair, but not a proper repair in themselves.

Lots of wood preserver products do soak in, kill rot spores and protect adjacent areas, but most then make it difficult to bond new wood or filler to afterwards.
 

Kukri

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Be very careful.

First, be sure that what you have got is one of the wet rot species, the commonest is coniophora puteana. For these to flourish, you need a moisture content in the region of 50%, which indeed you are most likely to get in the vicinity of a persistent slow leak. If you have dry rot - serpula lacrymans - you have very serious trouble indeed and need drastic treatment and expert advice. Dry rot can grow in moisture content as low as 20% as its filaments bring the moisture with it - it eats the cellulose and leaves just the lignin giving an appearance of semi - burnt wood. Fortunately it has a characteristic smell - the smell of a rotting garden shed...

As jwilson says you MUST cut back to sound timber, quite ruthlessly, and replace what you have cut out, and needless to say you must stop the source of moisture. You can certainly epoxy in the replacement using the same or similar timber with due attention to scarph angles (1 in 10 is a good working figure).

Copper napthenate ("green Cuprinol") is quite effective but probably illegal...
 
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