Wiring Lofrans Cayman- help!

I plan to use the existing neg from control box to windlass as one of the new pos wires. This leaves me the choice of extending the neg input to the old control box to the windlass - about 6.8m new cable (as your diagram) or running a new cable direct from the battery- about 8.2 total. The advantage of a new cable from the battery is it avoids a connection & I've found a relatively easy route that is shorter than the existing.
Hence the question re where to take the new cable from.

You're making rather hard work of this very simple job. If you put the new control box next to the windlass, you won't have to run a new cable all through the boat!
 
You're making rather hard work of this very simple job. If you put the new control box next to the windlass, you won't have to run a new cable all through the boat!

If I move the control box I have to change all the existing cables!
If I simply replace old for new then I only have one new cable to fit. Also in its present position, behind the panel above the chart table, it's easily accessible, not something I can replicate elsewhere.
 
Remove old windlass, fit new one in same place.

Remove old circuit breaker, fit new one in same place. Leave it turned off.

Remove old contactor, fit new one in same place.

The old positive from the battery goes to the contactor, as before.

The existing positive from the contactor to the windlass goes to the new windlass, as before.

The light gauge wiring from the foot switches etc connect to the contactor as before.

New stuff :

The new contactor does not require the negative to be connected to it, but the windlass does still require it. So, connect these two 35mm negative cables together, using a post or a nut and bolt, insulate whichever you use.

Run an additional 35mm positive cable from the contactor to the windlass.

The old contactor had a light gauge wire going from the negative input on the contactor to the center switching terminal. You need to run a light gauge wire from the negative post/bolt that you just fitted to the center terminal on your new contactor.

If you use the current negative from the contactor to the windlass as a positive you will need to :

a) Mark it as such using red heat shrink or red tape.
b) Run a new negative all the way from the battery to the windlass.
c) Run a new, light gauge, switching negative from the battery to the center switching terminal on the controller.

This really doesn't make much sense to be honest.
 
If I move the control box I have to change all the existing cables!
If I simply replace old for new then I only have one new cable to fit. Also in its present position, behind the panel above the chart table, it's easily accessible, not something I can replicate elsewhere.

Your boat; your choice. But you're making hard work of it.
 
Remove old windlass, fit new one in same place.

Remove old circuit breaker, fit new one in same place. Leave it turned off.

Remove old contactor, fit new one in same place.

The old positive from the battery goes to the contactor, as before.

The existing positive from the contactor to the windlass goes to the new windlass, as before.

The light gauge wiring from the foot switches etc connect to the contactor as before.

New stuff :

The new contactor does not require the negative to be connected to it, but the windlass does still require it. So, connect these two 35mm negative cables together, using a post or a nut and bolt, insulate whichever you use.

Run an additional 35mm positive cable from the contactor to the windlass.

The old contactor had a light gauge wire going from the negative input on the contactor to the center switching terminal. You need to run a light gauge wire from the negative post/bolt that you just fitted to the center terminal on your new contactor.

If you use the current negative from the contactor to the windlass as a positive you will need to :

a) Mark it as such using red heat shrink or red tape.
b) Run a new negative all the way from the battery to the windlass.
c) Run a new, light gauge, switching negative from the battery to the center switching terminal on the controller.

This really doesn't make much sense to be honest.

Thanks Paul- you've summed it up very well & I agree that joining the existing negatives and running a new positive is the correct solution.

Thanks everyone who's contributed. It's amazing how going thro the discussion process helps to clarify the mind.

John
 
Thanks Paul- you've summed it up very well & I agree that joining the existing negatives and running a new positive is the correct solution.

Thanks everyone who's contributed. It's amazing how going thro the discussion process helps to clarify the mind.

John

We all over think it sometimes. Hope it goes well.
 
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