Wiring for wireless for windlass

[Venus1]

Help please.
I have an electric windlass with a foot switch (up only, although the motor has a down option, not connected).
I would like to add a wireless remote, and I see from earlier posts this is a good option with eBay etc.
It seems the remote box connects across the terminals of the foot switch?
This would be simple enough, but it looks to me like the motor current (many amps) goes through the foot switch, and if so I would be surprised if the remote box can take such a current.
Am I missing something? (I'm sure I am.)

 

[Eeyore]

but it looks to me like the motor current (many amps) goes through the foot switch

Not usually! Normally goes through a windlass control unit/relay/solenoid (call it what you will) and the foot switch, cockpit control switch and remote are wired to that.

 

[Venus1]

Not usually! Normally goes through a windlass control unit/relay/solenoid (call it what you will) and the foot switch, cockpit control switch and remote are wired to that.

Ah. That explains it. I don't think I have a control unit/relay/solenoid. There certainly isn't one in the anchor well. The heavy cable goes straight from the motor to the terminal under the foot switch.

 

[jiris]

Ah. That explains it. I don't think I have a control unit/relay/solenoid. There certainly isn't one in the anchor well. The heavy cable goes straight from the motor to the terminal under the foot switch.

Actually, even the solenoid coil current may be too high for most of the RC devices generally available. I'd suggest to use a 20 A automotive relay (around 3 quids or so on E-bay) for switching the solenoid control current. If no solenoid (unusual), then add one and proceed as above.

 

[pvb]

Actually, even the solenoid coil current may be too high for most of the RC devices generally available. I'd suggest to use a 20 A automotive relay (around 3 quids or so on E-bay) for switching the solenoid control current. If no solenoid (unusual), then add one and proceed as above.

Windlass solenoids only take a couple of amps to operate. The cheap wireless remotes are rated at 5A output, so will work fine. I have one on my bowthruster.

 

[jiris]

Windlass solenoids only take a couple of amps to operate. The cheap wireless remotes are rated at 5A output, so will work fine. I have one on my bowthruster.

I probably should have worded my post more precisely. It is not so much the A value of the current, as the fact the coil of the solenoid presents a highly inductive load producing a lot of sparking. Higher rated contacts (I wouldn't trust 5 A too much) or compensating the inductivity by capacitor would be prudent.

 

[prv]

Not usually! Normally goes through a windlass control unit/relay/solenoid (call it what you will) and the foot switch, cockpit control switch and remote are wired to that.

Indeed not usually, but I've certainly seen manufacturer instructions for simple setups with a high-current direct switch instead of solenoids. This also ties in with the up-only description since the changeover usually happens in the solenoid box if present.

You would need to add a contactor (large relay, essentially) in parallel with the switch in order to use a normal remote.

Pete

 

[PaulRainbow]

I probably should have worded my post more precisely. It is not so much the A value of the current, as the fact the coil of the solenoid presents a highly inductive load producing a lot of sparking. Higher rated contacts (I wouldn't trust 5 A too much) or compensating the inductivity by capacitor would be prudent.

The Ebay remotes work just fine with a windlass. I used one pretty much every weekend on my last boat, almost always anchored, after four years of use i sold the boat, it was still working fine. The one on my current boat has been there for two years, no problems.

 

[duncan99210]

The Ebay remotes work just fine with a windlass. I used one pretty much every weekend on my last boat, almost always anchored, after four years of use i sold the boat, it was still working fine. The one on my current boat has been there for two years, no problems.

+1 I've now had an eBay wireless remote on my windlass for seven years. Works just fine. I've still got the wired switch but only use it now and again just to prove to myself it still works.

 

[Venus1]

Indeed not usually, but I've certainly seen manufacturer instructions for simple setups with a high-current direct switch instead of solenoids. This also ties in with the up-only description since the changeover usually happens in the solenoid box if present.

You would need to add a contactor (large relay, essentially) in parallel with the switch in order to use a normal remote.

Pete

Thanks for all replies - very helpful.
I will get a contactor/relay/solenoid and wireless package from eBay now that I know what's needed.

 

[SiteSurfer]

My boat was fitted with a very nice Lewmar windlass, which was set up minus any solenoid and ran the live directly through a switch.
I went the Ebay route and ordered a remote winch control, wired in an off the shelf solenoid and placed the wireless unit in the dry next to it.

The only thing that was a bit of an eye-opener was the battery size in the Ebay remote, whilst it is a 'kind of' standard size, you won't find them in too many supermarkets so worth getting a spare.