Wires through deck - better method?

B

brownsox

Well-Known Member
Joined
15 Jul 2004
Messages
377
Location
London
Visit site
At present the wires for our VHF, anemometer and mast-head lighting come out of the base of our trailer-sailer mast and then through deck glands to be connected with matching wires in the (lifting) keel case. It’s a tedious business to re-wire everything every time the mast goes up or down. We would like to replace the deck glands with deck-mounted waterproof plugs-and-sockets. I presume this would be OK for the lighting, but would there be too much signal loss for the anemometer, and would the co-axial lead for the VHF work in a two-pin plug and socket? Any experience or recommendations? I've seen Bulgin Blug plugs advertised ...
 
My experience is that "waterproof" deck plugs never are. A system that passes the cable through the deck and makes the connection in the dry below has much to reccomend it. it sounds as if a relatively simple modification to your wiring arrangements below should solve the problem.
 
Agreed that so called waterproof deck plugs will always let you down eventually. We replaced all our plugs with glands, best days work ever.
 
I note that you state your boat is a trailer sailer.

I think the likelihood of damaging the cables constantly feeding them through grommets and remaking connection outweighs the disadvantages of good quality connectors for a trailer sailer.

Use the correct size connector for the RF and instrument cables to get a good seal on the cable and use rubber boots fitted tightly to the cable and going over the whole connector assembly and tape the top of the boots around the cable.

Inspect the plugs and sockets regularly for water ingress and oxidation on the contacts.

Also for the lighting connector get one with a one or two extra contacts in case you ever want to fit additional lights. (Deck? Steaming?)

David
 
Cant agree that glands are the best method when you are constantly remaking the connections. You'll find that over time the wires will get shorter and shorter.

Try googling for dri-plugs or deck plugs or similar. They will do the biz.

Regards

Donald
 
I suggest you use an inverted U tube. One of the production boats has them. Stainless tubes just big enough for the wires. Then fit the end of the wires with crimp spades or forks etc. For a thin set of wires they might be able to bend the tube but it is better if you get 2 90degrees and 2 straights welded together.

An alternate it to fit a metal tube through the deck and hose clamp a plastic tube to it that is bent into a U shape by tying the end back to the mast base. Like a back to front through hull with the pipe on the outside. Water can not get uphill easily. Some yachts use a variation of this with a tube between the deck fitting and a mast fitting but water sometimes runs down the inside of a masts.

You can use small connectors if the wire ends are staggered and the tube big enough. It is certainly the quickest method to put up a mast and get to sea.
 
My experience with trailer sailer 25 years is don't have wires up the mast. I constantly forgot to disconnect when unrigging.
A VHF antenna on the pushpit will work well (especilly in a dismasting) and cabin mounted nav lights are often more visible.
However if you do persevere then a 2 pin plug will not cause the VHF VSWR to deteriate very much. You won't notice any difference even thoug it is not right. olewill
 
Not if you do it properly. You can buy glands big enough to pass any plug through. Then for a trailered boat, you could put inline plugs and sockets in the dry below. Do anything you can to avoid deck plugs - they will end in tears. I have lost count of the number of 'dri-plugs' and their relatives I have removed and chucked away in disgust.

Or, as Will_H says, just don't send wires up the mast at all!
 
I agree with Benbow. Large glands with inline connectors below deck. BNC for vhf, 5 pin DIN for windies and choc block for lights. All the connectors are available from Maplins I believe.
 
My first boat which I "demasted" often ....

Purists will scoff - but it worked and was better than the plug system that failed from previous owner :

Used BNC on VHF wrapped in self-amalgamating tape ... lasted ages.
Lights power was via cable through small gland to above deck into a small clip-together junction box with screw block inside. Box was clipped to base of mast.

Next boat where mast only came down each winter ..... same on VHF - connector was an in-line BNC and easily wrapped. Lasted years .... each year checked and only replaced 5 yrs later ... not bad for a non-marine non-suitable item.
Cables were led from mast to below deck via smallest and tighest gland box I could find into screw block inside box screwed to deckhead.

Present boat has "Aldis Lamp" brass connectors at base of mast for steaming and anchor lights - both have failed and are "green" ... will be replaced with similar to above when I can find the enthusiasm to also go up mast and change the bulbs ! VHf is on marine push on and 1/4 turn connector - works.
Have even thought about the "tapered barrel" shaped in-line screw connectors for all ... they are avialable in exterior grade and with plastic clip together covers for both power and antenna use. Could be easily taped up and above deck. In fact for power use - what about the small garden connectors used for lights etc. ?

Final conclusion - only ones that have worked well for me are where a screw terminal block has been used ... pain but works. Best was the junction box above deck ... meant no threading wires through glands each time.

Just because it's a boat doesn't mean to say you are restricted to only Marine items - there are loads of other stuff available via Maplins, RS catalogue, CPC Parnell, Caravan shops etc. that adapted can do a good job.
 
I use Split Seal Deck Glands made by Index Marine Ltd. I have two at the foot of the mast, one for the VHF aerial cable [this will allow the co-ax connector to pass through] and another for the two cables supplying the steaming light and the tricolour light. These are wired into a chocolate block connector below deck which is renewed whenever it shows signs of corrosion. The glands have been on the boat for 9 years and given no trouble. The mast is lowered every winter and disconnecting/reconnecting doesn't take very long.
 
I made a stainless box bolted to the top of the deck with the cables coming through gromets in the deck into the inside of the box. The top of the box had a stainless swan neck tube with flex cable covering to the mast. The connections were made inside the box

easy to disconnect by removing box top disconnecting cables, all protected from water and mechanical damage.
 
We used to have a rash of leaky deck glands scattered around the mast foot, and I replaced them with a stainless goose-neck. No regrets!

I got ours from HR Parts; click on "deck equipment" then "fittings".
 
As a sound engineer it is my opinion that the 5 Pin DIN is not the best connector to use. I dislike DIN connectors of any sort as they are difficult to solder correctly with anything other than the thinnest cables. If you are going to go down the route of in line connectors inside consider an XLR type connector. They do however have a larger outside diameter.

Try cpc.co.uk product code CN0661

Gold plated contacts may well be availble I used to get 3 Pin gold plated from Future File Developements www.ffd.co.uk

David
 
I use a length of mountain bike inner tube to form an inverted U. The deck end is Jubilee-clipped to a screw-on deck fitting which has sufficient internal clearance for the plugs and wires to go through to electrical connections below. The advantage of inner tube is that it's flexible so that one can feed wires through easily and it tends to collapse so minimising the chances of water entry but still permitting drainage at the mast end.
 
I think it's 419 Swedish Krone which is about £31.

ps on second thoughts, that seems incredibly cheap for anything to do with Halberg Rassy. Shurely shome mishtake.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top