Winterizing yanmar 75HP turbo engine

[Sailfree]

Now boat is out of charter I intend to do this myself - Be first time - used to repair/play with cars but new to marine engines. I expect boat, Jeanneau 43DS, to be out of water for say 1 month.

1. On last sail run engine up to temp and drain oil and replace oil & filter.

2. Replace diesel filter

3. Replace impellor - probably refit with speedseal cover

4. With boat in cradle drain sea water. Close valves and fill from sea water filter with antifreeze.

Any comments? have I missed anything?

I assume the cooling system will be OK but could top up with a bit of antifreeze?

 

[sailorman]

Now boat is out of charter I intend to do this myself - Be first time - used to repair/play with cars but new to marine engines. I expect boat, Jeanneau 43DS, to be out of water for say 1 month.

1. On last sail run engine up to temp and drain oil and replace oil & filter.

2. Replace diesel filter

3. Replace impellor - probably refit with speedseal cover

4. With boat in cradle drain sea water. Close valves and fill from sea water filter with antifreeze.

Any comments? have I missed anything?

I assume the cooling system will be OK but could top up with a bit of antifreeze?

why fit the impeller now, far better to leave until relaunch ( assuming it does need changing )
antifreeze is normally a 50/50 mix

 

[pvb]

why fit the impeller now, far better to leave until relaunch ( assuming it does need changing )

Agreed, in fact the impeller could simply be removed over the winter, especially if the OP is hoping to fill the sea water system with antifreeze. With the impeller in place, the antifreeze won't get past the seawater pump unless the engine's turned over.

 

[Sailfree]

Thanks guys - that why I ask the questions.

Very happy to learn from others experience

 

[pvb]

You'll probably find that Yanmar have an owner's manual which will detail the recommended winterising procedure.

 

[vyv_cox]

What is it that you think adding antifreeze to the raw water side will achieve? I don't know your particular engine but on my Yanmar there is only one metallic component throughout the raw water side - the heat exchanger. I have never heard of a corrosion problem with one, so assume it has been designed to be fully resistant. Everything else is rubber or plastic.

With the boat in the cradle run the engine for a minute while delivering fresh water into the Vetus filter, either from a hose pipe or a five gallon bottle. If you don't have that type of filter, run a hose from the pump inlet to a bucket of fresh water in the cockpit. Shut the engine down, open the impeller cover and drain the exhaust trap. All the water will be removed from the raw water side. At the same time, drain the calorifier into the bilge and pump all of it over the side. No freezing worries if there is no water.

 

[Sailfree]

What is it that you think adding antifreeze to the raw water side will achieve? I don't know your particular engine but on my Yanmar there is only one metallic component throughout the raw water side - the heat exchanger. I have never heard of a corrosion problem with one, so assume it has been designed to be fully resistant. Everything else is rubber or plastic.

With the boat in the cradle run the engine for a minute while delivering fresh water into the Vetus filter, either from a hose pipe or a five gallon bottle. If you don't have that type of filter, run a hose from the pump inlet to a bucket of fresh water in the cockpit. Shut the engine down, open the impeller cover and drain the exhaust trap. All the water will be removed from the raw water side. At the same time, drain the calorifier into the bilge and pump all of it over the side. No freezing worries if there is no water.

I assume you are flushing out any residue salt water with fresh then draining as much as possible the fresh water.

I was going to put antifreeze in raw water side as its what the Yanmar Service Engineer did (as I found out when I turned the raw water inlet valve intending to grease it one winter!

 

[Steve Clayton]

Re closed circuit cooling; when did you last drain down and replace coolant? If your reservoir is green then with the advances in a-freeze Yanmar recommend replacing. I've got the spec if you want it and where to buy.
To flush through the calorifer heating take both hoses off the engine and flush through; you be surprised at the amount of crud that comes out!

Assuming your 75hp is the 4-JH range (same as mine in SO45.2) then engine oil is bog-standard mineral diesel oil. Do NOT use anything synthetic.

 

[Tranona]

I assume you are flushing out any residue salt water with fresh then draining as much as possible the fresh water.

I was going to put antifreeze in raw water side as its what the Yanmar Service Engineer did (as I found out when I turned the raw water inlet valve intending to grease it one winter!

In our climate there is no need to put antifreeze in the seawater circuit, nor indeed drain it unless we get one of the rare winters like 1947 or 1962/3 and the boat is outside for long periods. Fresh water circuits such as calorifier and domestic water may need draining.