Winterizing a Aq225D

[TerryS]

Hi all,

Having read this forum on how to winterize a boat - I am in the process of winterization for my penta AQ225 Petrol engine. I have drained all sea water out by opening valves on engine block and on exhaust manifolds, also disconnected sea hose to drain water.

The boat is stored on the dry and I have purchased some "muffs" to be able to run the engine out of the water whilst attached to a hose pipe. The questions i have are below

1) I intend to fill up a tub with water and attach a hose to the water intake, Will the impeller be able to suck the water from the tub or does it need to be pumped into it?
2) I intend to flush the engine with anti-freeze and fresh water, any idea how long i should run the engine with the anti freeze going through it? Or what measurement of water i should pump through it?
3) Should i run the engine up to temperature with fresh water before pulling through the fresh water/anti freeze mix?
4) Is there any specific anti freeze i should be using?
5) Its petrol so I dont think i need to add fuel stabilizer, correct me if i am wrong?
6) Should open all valves and drain the hoses down AFTER i have run anti freeze through it?
7) If i should re-drain it, should i leave valves & hoses open or closed?

I intend to take the batteries out of the boat for the winter, is there anything else i should do regarding the engine or outboard leg (penta 280) for the winter?

Many thanks again!

3 months into this boating life, and i am loving it!

 

[QBhoy]

Hi terry.

Forget all the big tub stuff and flushing with antifreeze that way...
You simply only need to take the big hose off the t stat and fill the hose until af comes out the t stat casing. Then fill the 2 other smaller hose off the t stat that go to the exhaust manifolds, until af comes out the drive. Eco friendly stuff of course. 2 parts concentrate and one part water. You’ll need just short of 20 litres made up to have plenty.
Just make certain you’ve defo stained the block and poke around the drains for crud. Folk leaving the block empty in previous winters means the block often corrodes and flakes block the drains. Make sure that water pump is drained too.
If you have a hot water heating system off the engine, you’ll need to take these two hoses off the circ pump on engine and blow through them too...before all the above.

 

[QBhoy]

With the leg...either change the oil or at least crack the drain open on the gear oil and check for water ingress. Really common for them to take in water and even freeze if it’s bad. Leave the leg down to, allowing any water to drain and not collect more.

 

[TerryS]

QBHoy,

Re-read everything, fully understand, thanks for your help!

Terry

 

[TerryS]

One more question, once i have done all of the above, should i redrain down the system or just leave everything plumbed in and all drain valves closed with water and anti freeze inside?

Also, should i do anything with the fuel?

 

[QBhoy]

Hi terry

Personally I leave it full to the brim with AF, making sure it’s enough to cover the temps you see. I mix 2 parts concentrate to 1 part water. With the stuff I use that’s covering down to -19oC.
But the reason I do this is to stop corrosion internally. If its left empty...that’s when all the corrosion occurs. Oxygen filled damp and cold, varying temps means it’s a perfect environment for cold corrosion. It’s a certainty that damage is done left empty this way. Hence, I leave it full to almost reduce any corrosion. My boat is 16 years old now and has never had any sign of corrosion or flakes of metal in the drains. That’s the reason. But just make sure you’re certain of the concentrate level of antifreeze