Winterising Volvo MD2C

[pottyYachtie]

I am about to haul out and do some work over the winter.
I have a Volvo MD2C engine. I notice on other threads people have suggested putting caustic soda in to clear any goo in the engine.

I was simply going to run clean water through the strainer then run some antifreeze mix through.

The reason I ask is I was thinking of fitting a Calorifier to heat the Hot water and I might change the engine to indirect cooling while I am at it.

Any thoughts?

 

[VicS]

I am about to haul out and do some work over the winter.
I have a Volvo MD2C engine. I notice on other threads people have suggested putting caustic soda in to clear any goo in the engine.

I was simply going to run clean water through the strainer then run some antifreeze mix through.

The reason I ask is I was thinking of fitting a Calorifier to heat the Hot water and I might change the engine to indirect cooling while I am at it.

Any thoughts?

MD11C
MD2B. 2 for 2 cylinders. (1970-75)
MD11C. 11 for 1100cc (1975-81)

Dunno about the caustic soda ..... Dont think that will do any good, although useful for the exhaust injection elbow. A descaler perhaps. But it would have to be recirculated to do much good. Virtually impossible to recirculate anything around the blocks effectively though.

Drain, flush with fresh water, drain again, then fill with antifreeze.
But remember if the engine is cold most flushing simply goes through the bypass to waste. So run on freshwater from a hose via a bucket until warmed up to flush.

Recirculate the antifreeze to ensure the blocks do actually have antifreeze in them. Crack open the drain valves until you get antifreeze coming out.

Dunno what's involved converting to indirect .... details of the system in the workshop manual IIRC ( manual on http://www.bluemoment.com/downloads.html if you don't have a copy)

Owners manuals on VP website http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...lication_search/pages/publication_search.aspx if you've mislaid your copy

 

[sailorman]

MD2C to change to indirect will cost many £s, buy a kettle.
Then follow Vics advise

 

[vyv_cox]

Adding a calorifier to a raw water cooled engine is not expensive, quite easily done for about £50 plus the calorifier. Changing to indirect cooling is a far bigger job, requiring a heat exchanger, circulation pump, different thermostat arrangement.

Are you sure about the caustic soda? Hydrochloric, sulphamic and phosphoric acids are used, plus commercial products such as Rydlyme. As Vic says, you need to take special measures to get the reagent into the engine, either circulating it hot or pouring it in through the thermostat when it is stationary. Unless it is showing signs of overheating I would follow your own thoughts, again noting that it can be difficult to get the antifreeze inside the engine.