winter job No1

[copterdoctor]

Can anybody help?

My ageing Konsort has what appears to be mould under the varnish on most of the cabin woodwork. I think the time has come to deal with it, which raises a couple questions.
If I sand down the existing varnish how do I then get rid of the mould? If I am working on a laminate how deep can I go?
Any ideas on what treatment to use after cleaning it all up would be welcome, assuming I have a bulkhead left.


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[Evadne]

1) Scrape the varnish off, sanding it all would be tedious in the extreme. Fr internal work a Skarsten scraper is most useful. Scraping ply or laminate IMO is easier than sanding, as you more quickly get a feel for how much you need to remove and how much you can get a way with.
2) It may be wetness in the wood lifting the varnish off. Does it look a sort of greenish yellow? If so the varnish will lift off easily. Depending on the source of wetness, either dry the wood then re-varnish or stop the leak or whatever, then let it dry etc.
3) If water is involved, and here you should do as I say and not as I do, then the only good looking remedy is to remove all varnish, make good the wood either by scraping it back or using a teak brightener then remove all possibility of ingress. When re-varnishing (once perfectly dry), start with twice as much varnish as you need, thinned 50%, top back up with varnish for the 2nd coat and repeat until at least 4 coats are done, sanding and wiping down between each coat.
4) When you're finished, I'll hire you to do my boat!



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[Clive_Rigden]

God ! That takes me back to my sailing and rowing club in the 60's . . .
Good advice mind and the only way to get a "propper job" done

<hr width=100% size=1>Khyber

 

[Evadne]

Like I said, do as I say, not as I do... you should see the state of the brightwork in our cockpit, especially by the end of the winter! Mind you, for internal woodwork it ought to be good for decades after that sort of treatment. The 50% thinning thing is strictly speaking, I suppose, for new wood. But if you scrape back to good wood, then I suspect that it will benefit from the same sort of priming.

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[andy_wilson]

Could be mildew.

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[clouty]

I once did this job for money - a Bavairia that had been sunk in the Panama canal, which hadn't done the teak faced ply much good...

Use a Sandvic scraper - much more efficient, comes in two different sizes plus a triangular one which is v. useful for fiddly bits. You will go through the veneer, unless you can practice first on a hidden bit. Disguise damage with an artist's brush and oil or spirit based dyes, grainpainting the damage.

Let it dry. In the future, all boats will have built in dehumidifiers, draining into the water tanks.

When varnishing bare wood, new or old, you need to severely thin the first coat or two by up to 50%. Rub down with flour paper between coats, hoover up before the next coat, use a rag soaked in very thin varnish to wipe down (known as a tack rag) varnish your way out of the boat so as to raise as little dust as possible. Subsequent coats may well also benefit from 10/20% thinning. Blakes always used to need some white spirit. Makes it better value, turps being cheaper than varnish.

IMHO Danish Oil (Blackfriars, Rustins) is a better finish, easier to apply, and to recoat in future years. Dust control is not as much of a problem. If after applying a couple of coats, you decide you'd prefer varnish after all, it makes an excellent base coat so nothing is lost.


You don't own a 1936 Hillyard for 11 years without learning a thing or two about wood finishing.

No plywood problems on Senta though


<hr width=100% size=1>clouty

 

[LittleShip]

Dave Skarsten are out of business they are now called ??? Faithful. Still a great tool and can be ordered from here.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/store/main.php3?prodn=&site=>http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/store/main.php3?prodn=&site=</A>

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I wish I'd been born rich instead of good looking ?