Windy Ghibli - sea water in bilge but no idea where it comes from - help please

[Divemaster1]

........... The sump looks a bit rusty so will replace that while I’m at it plus all rusty nuts and bolts and any hoses that look like they need changing.

Believe rust expands up to 7x the thickness of the steel, so if the sump just "looks a bit rusty", there will be plenty of life left in it ... Clean up, degrease and repaint (and perhaps use a more resistant paint than the std V .. paint). All IMHO of course ...

 

[GaryAH]

You may think twice before making the sump in stainless as you may encounter some galvanic corrosion problems. I think there are corrosion resistant steel (corten?) or just make a bit thicker (and heavier) than the original...

Yep agreed, it’s something to think about although there will be a gasket and sealant between the 2 metals but the sump bolts will be tight up against the sump as will the lower dipstick assembly where it joins the sump. I think you can buy some paste to tackle galvanic issues but not sure how long that would effective. Cheers G

 

[GaryAH]

Believe rust expands up to 7x the thickness of the steel, so if the sump just "looks a bit rusty", there will be plenty of life left in it ... Clean up, degrease and repaint (and perhaps use a more resistant paint than the std V .. paint). All IMHO of course ...

Yes good point. Once the engine is out next week I’ll have the sump off and have a good look at it and decide then. Sump replacement on any VP engine is expensive but so is lifting the engine so ideally when it goes back in I want it looking as good as it can be and hopefully this will be the only time the engine has to be lifted under my ownership. Cheers Gary.

 

[UrbanSk]

I’ve just done a Sealine Sc38 that took on water as soon as you put in In gear , it was the transom shield gasket failed , when yiu select reverse it created a gap between the shield and the hull , you could at the worst have a rotted transom which has allowed the shield to crush the transom allowing this .

Id be looking around the back of the engine lower part near the exhaust pipe where it bolts to the shield .

if access is good the job can be done without actually removing the engine from the boat , I carried out this task on my own for a client earlier this year .

Hi!

Hi!
Found this thread using google so sorry if i hijacked it.

I have a Sealine SC38 with a rotten transom. It is completely delaminated and need a rebuild.
Any pointers on how to lift out the engines. It has dual D6-330.

It looks like the rear sofa can be removed but i don´t think its enough.

Regards,

Urban

 

[simonfraser]

would this be rusty enough to be concerned about ?

 

[penfold]

From the picture probably not, but until it's cleaned up it's impossible to be sure.

You may think twice before making the sump in stainless as you may encounter some galvanic corrosion problems. I think there are corrosion resistant steel (corten?) or just make a bit thicker (and heavier) than the original...

What significant galvanic issue is there going to be? Stainless steel next to cast iron might be an issue if immersed in salt water, but it's painted and in a nice dry engine space.