Windows - Boat not Microsoft that is

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ex-Gladys

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SWMBO is doing the headlining on GL (already done a cracking job on the panels) and having spoken to Alan at Hawke House he has recommended taking out the windows and re bedding them afterwards.

This makes me a bit nervous because I'm of the "if it don't leak don't disturb it" brigade, but with 20+ yr old windows he reckons we're on borrowed time anyway.

Anyhow, the windows are perspex/acrylic sheet with screws running through to an internal frame with those funny stainless nut things, but no external frame. Examination seems to suggest that the sealant (about 6mm thick) between the coachroof and the perspex is silicon, so removal shouldn't be too difficult. Anyone got any gotcha preventing tips?

Thanks in advance
 
6mm seems very thick for silicone.
Perhaps there's some kind of gasket as well.
I'm planning to cut new window gaskets out of bicycle
inner tube, to use silicone sparingly and have something
to do the nuts up against, rather than sqeezing all the
silicone out again.Many people use adhesive Sikaflex.
 
I'd ditch the 'mastic' type solution and the proper closed-cell adhesive backed foam strip sold specifically for this purpose. Available in a couple of different widths. Extremely easy to fit/use and no mess.

An added advantage is that the widows will be simple to remove/refit should it ever be necessary.
 
We did this on RG's windows, which don't have a frame but are set into apetures in the hull, which is how yours sound. It was 2003, the scars haven't faded yet; we and made nearly every mistake in the book!

Ours were stuck in with some horrible black stuff which was a total nightmare to get off. I forget what we used in the end - acetone and elbow grease and a palette knife I think. The windows themselves were each slightly different. It took us (and our long suffering supplier) a long time to realise this - but templates won't do. Take out the originals and copy these. Also it was only be removing them we found that the upper edge of the arpeture had a chamfer - and we certainly couldn't imitate that on the template.

Interlock screws are the way to go, with the specially made gaskets as Jerryat says. Then put UV resistent mastic/goo/silkaflex round the outside to protect them.

HTH
 
Our Perspex is actually just slapped on the outside of the coach roof, not let in at all. With the adhesive stuff how easy is it to put the bolt holes through the foam?
 
Hi Simon,

The windows must be screwed/bolted into place as the foam strip is only adhesive on one side. In any case, the bolts are needed to pull the windows down onto the strip (it appears to almost disappear) and form a totally watertight joint. Bit like a head gasket actually.

There are differing views on which bit to stick the foam to- i.e. to the window or to the coachroof. In my experience using framed windows, sticking it to the window frame is the correct method, as you can ensure that it is fitted tightly into the rebate.

With your windows (as I understand it) you might be better sticking the foam round the aperature then fitting the window.

Either way, the surplus foam strip can be easily trimmed off with a sharp knife/razor to give a neat and tidy finish.
 
Hi Botheras,

Not a problem at all. I checked this out with various window people before fitting mine, and was strongly advised NOT to 'drill' the foam for the bolts.

There are two reasons: the drill will 'snag up' the gluey foam into a a small ball, thus forming a tiny aperature in the foam. Secondly, merely pushing/screwing the bolt/interscrew through the foam allows the foam to 'squeeze' tightly round the bolt as it's tightened forming a first class seal and eliminating the need for mastic round the bolt/interscrew.

HTH's

This method was the unanimous view of the window outfits incidentally.
 
Hi Botheras again!!

Sorry, should also have pointed out that the recommended way of forming a hole in the foam was simply to push a small screwdriver through it! This allows the bolt/screw through without 'balling' up the foam.

It also allows the location of the exisiting holes to be 'found' if you are refixing existing/new windows in the same place.
 
Took mine out last fall. They were screwed with a type of gasket between the window and GPR.
The Forum advised me as follows,which I did. The advice came from Boatbuilder from Cornwall.
Proceed to your local plastics supplier for windows and purchase polycabonate.Trade name 'Macron' it does not scratch as easily as poly.
Then go the Sillkaflex dealer,get that on the internet.No good going to the swindle shops as they will not stock the right stuff.
As poly and GPR have vast expansion rates,screwing is a no-no. Puchase the UV sealent ,the correct primer for Poly and GPR.They are not the same.
Nip down to B&Q and puchase some glue sticks and cut off 2 mm washers.Sand down the window frame until baby smooth and apply primer. Glue the washers on to the frame and wait to set. sand the appropiate inch band around your poly widow clean with appropiate cleaner from sillkaflex and apply primer.
You will need some clamping devices-e-mail me.Apply UV glue in a thick 3mm by 10mm swage.Place window on frome and wit for a good two hrs.Backfill and leave for a week. Sillkaflex supply a very comprhensive manual on there stuff. A motoroised dispenser will save yor fingers. Ask for a discount and the minimum cost will be a £100. my e-mail discoduckmb@yahoo.com.Someone will come back and say that the UV glue is hard to get off.Quote from cornwall was that it would be no use if it did come easerly
 
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