Window seal leak options

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bluetooth

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Ive read many threads about leaking windows and challenges to repair/fix/replace.
Specifically im now referring to the large front windscreens of a 90/00s boat.
The seals on my Fairline T40 windscreen leak a little but they are almost 20 years old and it resided in med for first 11 years.
Ive tried adding sikaflex in places and is improves but limited though it may be that ive not done the entire window yet.
Option of removing is ... well looks nightmare

Seen the adverts for buytl-tape which looks like they can seal a dam.

Super Waterproof Tape Butyl Rubber Aluminium Foil Tape, for Roof Leak, Surface Crack, Window Sill Gap, Pipe Rupture (5M) : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Now im thinking is there scope to use this as a 'neat' thin strip over the rubber ? Cant believe it would look any worse if well done
Thoughts ?
 
That will look crap!
Rake the old out….hoover it out…make sure it’s dry….mask it up….fill it with the appropriate sealant….I’ve used PU40 ,works well…..don’t forget push it right in with a spatula or one of those silicone moulding tools which I don’t know the name of but have loads kicking about ……hopefully someone else will know what I mean and post a link!
 
Flynnbarr said:
That will look crap!
Rake the old out….hoover it out…make sure it’s dry….mask it up….fill it with the appropriate sealant….I’ve used PU40 ,works well…..don’t forget push it right in with a spatula or one of those silicone moulding tools which I don’t know the name of but have loads kicking about ……hopefully someone else will know what I mean and post a link!
Click to expand...

Not possible to rake it out! Its C shaped and encloses the windscreen on out and inside. Functions to hold windscreen in place and seal.
When I say leak I am talking dribbles.
When u say will look crap I wondering at what level of crap compared to how it looks now and what a silicone repair looks like.

Maybe I need to buy some of the tape and have a closer look.
I was only thinking of a 2mm overlap each way onto the windscreen and the frame.
 
Ask on the fairline forum?……they are all of an age now where I would think someone else has had the same…..surely there must be a better solution than that !
 
Flynnbarr said:
Ask on the fairline forum?……they are all of an age now where I would think someone else has had the same…..surely there must be a better solution than that !
Click to expand...

I posted on here as imagine it applies to all makes of boats.
All I've generally heard of is replace if u can afford/ source, silicone it or accept it.
 
The front screen on my Azi was bonded in, like cars. The mastic dried out over time and needed replacing. This was a toast dig out and reset. Worked a treat. Yours sounds easier with a rubber seal. Sounds like a new seal needed.
 
rafiki_ said:
The front screen on my Azi was bonded in, like cars. The mastic dried out over time and needed replacing. This was a toast dig out and reset. Worked a treat. Yours sounds easier with a rubber seal. Sounds like a new seal needed.
Click to expand...

In principle yes but looking at the deconstruction involved to access is the issue. I could of course just continue as is !?

What did you reseal with ?
 
Could you remove the glass and re bed it with the appropriate stuff ?
Even just the outside part .

I had all the cockpit glass replaced ( and obviously re bedded ) on my Itama .Done by professionals at a yard .
As mentioned it’s messy scraping out the old stuff .But all csn be hoovered up .Best done in a yard TBH .
Just fancied a colour change no leaks btw .

Independently at one haul out we ( My two mates and I on a bit of a jolly ) removed the port holes in the hull and re bedded them using proprietary sealer .Sika something other from the yard shop .One guy on the inside and another inside working together.
All looks OEM .Like you just thought time and Med Sun / salt and chemical deterioration etc they were ready for a pull and re bed .Use blues masking tape to protect areas and clean up with a sharp knife + solvent .
To be fare there was evidence of leeks / seeps when we got them out so well worth doing .This is a 2001 hull .

Remember generally it’s not just sea water splashing up in a chop , the real killer is rain water running down .

Any one on here who has a old boat who has never pulled the hull port holes think again !
 
I had a similar problem with my Sealine S37 (20 years in the Med)
I cleaned out between the rubber and glass well, put masking tape with say 5mm glass showing and sealed with Sikaflex all the way around. I‘ll stress all the way around.
Completely successful and has lasted 4 years so will look at redoing this year.
You can still get the exact rubber profile for the Sealine and I guess for the Fairline too. It’s what we both should do really but for an hour with Sikaflex every 4 years, I prefer to go boating than tackle that one.

Sikaflex 295 UV Marine Adhesive & Sealant
 
DavidJ said:
I had a similar problem with my Sealine S37 (20 years in the Med)
I cleaned out between the rubber and glass well, put masking tape with say 5mm glass showing and sealed with Sikaflex all the way around. I‘ll stress all the way around.
Completely successful and has lasted 4 years so will look at redoing this year.
You can still get the exact rubber profile for the Sealine and I guess for the Fairline too. It’s what we both should do really but for an hour with Sikaflex every 4 years, I prefer to go boating than tackle that one.

Sikaflex 295 UV Marine Adhesive & Sealant
Click to expand...

Thats excellent and was what i was thinking and started a year or so ago. Imagine it took you most of a sunny day!!
With this post i was wondering whether these tapes might do a similar job but without all the mess. In essence the tape being easier than the 2 tapes needed either side of the sikaflex ?
Ive ordered some of a black tape to see what it looks like - for a tenner its worth it and not doubt can find a domestic use if looks awful or otherwise not suitable
Will report back
 
Portofino said:
Could you remove the glass and re bed it with the appropriate stuff ?
Even just the outside part .

I had all the cockpit glass replaced ( and obviously re bedded ) on my Itama .Done by professionals at a yard .
As mentioned it’s messy scraping out the old stuff .But all csn be hoovered up .Best done in a yard TBH .
Just fancied a colour change no leaks btw .

Independently at one haul out we ( My two mates and I on a bit of a jolly ) removed the port holes in the hull and re bedded them using proprietary sealer .Sika something other from the yard shop .One guy on the inside and another inside working together.
All looks OEM .Like you just thought time and Med Sun / salt and chemical deterioration etc they were ready for a pull and re bed .Use blues masking tape to protect areas and clean up with a sharp knife + solvent .
To be fare there was evidence of leeks / seeps when we got them out so well worth doing .This is a 2001 hull .

Remember generally it’s not just sea water splashing up in a chop , the real killer is rain water running down .

Any one on here who has a old boat who has never pulled the hull port holes think again !
Click to expand...

Yep would be a massive job and the T40 windscreen frame would have to be fully taken out to do this though. Dont think man maths could justify it as my issue is minimal and the water drops that do get through drain easily in the channels they are meant to and out of the cockpit. Its the reason i have left one option as to accept as is given its a 20 yr old boat now were are in 2022
 
As a mid term top up because of the severe thermal stresses on the front glasses I use that Capt Tolleys leak sealer .
Its a bit like car seek n seal .
Just run it around the interface of glass and black mastic .It’s white but goes transparent with air and runs down micro cracks .
Med boats get pretty blasted with the hose in the marina after a run out = rinse salt etc off .

I used it around all the through the top side fittings even cleats , lights etc .
On the old Sun squeaker around the radar arch fittings as again UV and thermal stress = busted seals ….even with the best craftsmanship will in the world.
EB6D172F-5797-49E9-A119-4C9B926D345C.jpeg
Use this ^

See Vid every fitting has had this dribbled around it .
Thermal stress move breaks seals .

 
Portofino said:
As a mid term top up because of the severe thermal stresses on the front glasses I use that Capt Tolleys leak sealer .
Its a bit like car seek n seal .
Just run it around the interface of glass and black mastic .It’s white but goes transparent with air and runs down micro cracks .
Med boats get pretty blasted with the hose in the marina after a run out = rinse salt etc off .

I used it around all the through the top side fittings even cleats , lights etc .
On the old Sun squeaker around the radar arch fittings as again UV and thermal stress = busted seals ….even with the best craftsmanship will in the world.
View attachment 128263
Use this ^

See Vid every fitting has had this dribbled around it .
Thermal stress move breaks seals .

Click to expand...
Thanks
I’ve seen that around, even in Spain.
I was thinking of doing a re-Sika but because the old Sika is still holding up I might just try what looks to be a simple bit of maintenance.
 
Portofino said:
As a mid term top up because of the severe thermal stresses on the front glasses I use that Capt Tolleys leak sealer .
Its a bit like car seek n seal .
Just run it around the interface of glass and black mastic .It’s white but goes transparent with air and runs down micro cracks .
Med boats get pretty blasted with the hose in the marina after a run out = rinse salt etc off .

I used it around all the through the top side fittings even cleats , lights etc .
On the old Sun squeaker around the radar arch fittings as again UV and thermal stress = busted seals ….even with the best craftsmanship will in the world.
View attachment 128263
Use this ^

See Vid every fitting has had this dribbled around it .
Thermal stress move breaks seals .

Click to expand...

Lol. I had bought this a few years ago but never used as thought it set rigid and therefore would crack as rubber, window and frame expand and contract as environment changes? Did / does it?
 
bluetooth said:
Lol. I had bought this a few years ago but never used as thought it set rigid and therefore would crack as rubber, window and frame expand and contract as environment changes? Did / does it?
Click to expand...
It’s fine ….never sets hard stays flexible .It’s just runny so it penetrates cracks or gaps and seals as it says .
 
bluetooth said:
Lol. I had bought this a few years ago but never used as thought it set rigid and therefore would crack as rubber, window and frame expand and contract as environment changes? Did / does it?
Click to expand...
Depends on the gap it’s trying to fill. Often requires several attempts, just let it dry between “coats”.
As mentioned, it’s milky coloured when wet, so brim the crack and let it settle. Some extract with a syringe for difficult to get at locations.
As mentioned, this is the easy option, pulling windows can often result in their destruction on older boats.
 
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