Window removal - Temporary cover for the holes?

[Jokani]

This winter I intend to remove the windows and send them off and have new clamp types made by a company called Seaglaze.

After I remove the existing windows, I will need to cover the holes and make watertight for between 6 and 8 weeks.

Not sure what material or sticky stuff would be best to use, any ideas gratefully received.

 

[Poignard]

Cheap plywood and a rubber gasket.

 

[roblpm]

This winter I intend to remove the windows and send them off and have new clamp types made by a company called Seaglaze.

After I remove the existing windows, I will need to cover the holes and make watertight for between 6 and 8 weeks.

Not sure what material or sticky stuff would be best to use, any ideas gratefully received.

Hmmm. Be careful with gaffa tape. I did it with plastic and gaffa. Was watertight. But had to spend a couple of hours with citrus cleaner getting the sticky residue off.

 

[ganter]

When I did my Pageant windows I used ply to cover the holes. I cut it an inch oversize.
I cut two 2"x1" battens and screwed the ply on the outside onto the battens on the inside effectively clamping the ply to the window frames. I then used cheap clear bathroom sealant around the ply to waterproof.
Things stayed pretty dry inside, certainly nothing to get in a twist about.
In Spring the sealant just peeled off the fibreglass without too much grief, perhaps a plastic scraper here and there.

 

[MoodySabre]

Hmmm. Be careful with gaffa tape. I did it with plastic and gaffa. Was watertight. But had to spend a couple of hours with citrus cleaner getting the sticky residue off.

Two hours per window getting gaffer glue off my boat and that was after two weeks.

 

[VicS]

Two hours per window getting gaffer glue off my boat and that was after two weeks.

I stuck heavy gauge polythene over the openings using parcel tape. DO NOT USE PARCEL TAPE. If you think gaffer tape is bad believe me parcel tape is much worse.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Seaglaze - the people at Rackheath in Norwich? Have you actually spoken to them as when I did about 2 years ago they were very dismissive 'Sorry sir, we don't deal with small orders any more, there is a minimum £1000 order' so they didn't get my business even though they did some windows for me several years earlier. Other window people at available.
I used about 10mm exterior plywood bolted to a strongback in a couple of places. I used the self adhesive 'P' or 'W' profile rubber stuck on the plywood. I eventually did the windows myself.

 

[Jokani]

Thanks for all the help and comments, it is great being able to draw from the knowledge of the forum. I would have fallen in to the gaffa or parcel tape trap!

Cheap plywood and a rubber gasket.

Yep, that seems the way to go, and I have the ply and rubber seal left over from another project

Seaglaze - the people at Rackheath in Norwich? Have you actually spoken to them as when I did about 2 years ago they were very dismissive 'Sorry sir, we don't deal with small orders any more, there is a minimum £1000 order' so they didn't get my business even though they did some windows for me several years earlier. Other window people at available.

I have spoken to a lady on the phone, very knowledgeable, ball park figure approx £300 per window so at £1,200 not cheap, but I thought that fair considering they would be made to the exact size as the original. I did get a quote for refurbishment of the originals, at there wasn't that much difference. Plus I like the idea of clamp fit rather than screws.

I used about 10mm exterior plywood bolted to a strongback in a couple of places. I used the self adhesive 'P' or 'W' profile rubber stuck on the plywood.

Appreciate the tip on using profile rubber and sticking to the wood, I did over order some of this on a cockpit locker project, so may have enough left for this.

Thanks again all.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

I refurbished 13 windows and used heavy gauge polythene and strong tape (Duck Tape brand). It was quick and effective. The tape did not leave much residue but what was left was easily cleaned with thinners, which is needed to be done anyway to prepare the GRP if they are flang type frames.

 

[donm]

I refurbished 13 windows and used heavy gauge polythene and strong tape (Duck Tape brand). It was quick and effective. The tape did not leave much residue but what was left was easily cleaned with thinners, which is needed to be done anyway to prepare the GRP if they are flang type frames.

I also used polythene but parcel tape. Although it broke up on removal it is fairly easily cleaned off with thinners which as has been said, you will need to do to prepare for re-bedding the windows. It took me 8/10 weeks before I could replace the windows but the temporary glazing held well and was worth the work of removing the tape residue.

 

[Minchsailor]

8/9mm external ply and hatch sealing tape. Clamped to the cabin top with lengths of 2x1.

For renovating windows try www.eagleboatwindows.co.uk. Made an excellent job of mine.

 

[ghostlymoron]

I'm not clear what type of windows you have but I've refurbished several aluminium 'h' section ones myself. It's a bit fiddly eminently do-able. I covered the holes with a split carrier bag held in gaffa. As said gaffa is very sticky but wasn't too much problem to remove although I can't remember which solvent was most effective although I usually try meths, parafin, petrol, nitromors, thinners, acetone.

 

[TLouth7]

True gaffer tape (as opposed to duct tape) should come off most surfaces without leaving residue, I have not tried it on gel coat though.

Have you considered a large tarp over the whole coach roof? This still needs to be secured, perhaps some bricks and ratchet straps to the toe rails?

 

[bigwow]

I'm not clear what type of windows you have but I've refurbished several aluminium 'h' section ones myself. It's a bit fiddly eminently do-able. I covered the holes with a split carrier bag held in gaffa. As said gaffa is very sticky but wasn't too much problem to remove although I can't remember which solvent was most effective although I usually try meths, parafin, petrol, nitromors, thinners, acetone.

WD40 works on masking tape residue, perhaps it also works on Gaffer and Parcel tape residue.

 

[Poignard]

Here's what I used to temporarily close up a redundant 4" hole in my plywood coachroof. It was so "temporary" that it was there for a few years! A bead of silicon sealant round the edge or a soft rubber gasket would have been better than the Sikaflex I used, which pulled up some of the coachroof sheathing when I removed it.

 

[Hydrozoan]

I used (true) duct tape over a slight leak, and rather wished I had not, though it eventually came off - white spirit or WD40. That yellow builder's tape seems on other substrates to be commendably adhesive and waterproof, yet not bad for residue - but I expect someone will now tell me it's the same as duct tape.