Window Frame Corrosion

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widgeon

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After some time lurking here, I am finally provoked to post.

All of the non-opening coachroof windows on my HR31 are corroding. The corrosion appears to be coming from the inner surface of the outer frame. There is a 'rubber' seal between the outer frame and the outside of the window glass.

I have resisted the temptation to take the outer frames off, as there is no leak. However, with the build up of corrosion products, I am concerned that a leak will appear soon and that, even worse, the frames may distort.

The frames are marked 'M C Berg Denmark'. The anodising on the visible surfaces seems to be intact.

If I remove the outer frames, what is the best method of re-preserving the frames?
 
If you take the frames off, and as long as the corrosion is only on normally hidden surfaces, you could remove the corrosion (use aluminium oxide paper only) and prime/paint the cleaned surface. Or you could get the frames professionally re-anodised, which would be better.

When removing the frames, be sure to note which screws go in which holes, because you'll probably find they are different lengths!

If all else fails, you can get replacement Bjerg portlights from HR Parts & Accessories - Vickie Vance is very helpful. They also have sealing gaskets, etc. Good luck!
 
I have the same problem on a 1997 HR, and its extreme. If I had purchased the boat new I would be very ------ off. I have sent you a message. I contacted HR and sent them loads of pictures and of course they have never seen the phenomenon, although some other company will manufacture new screens Berg are no longer in business I understand. The quote was an arm and three legs as I need five new windows one of which opens. Let me know how you get on.
 
>>Or you could get the frames professionally re-anodised, which would be better. <<

Unusually I definitely do NOT agree with pvb on this one!! I had a very similar (though very small areas of surface corrosion) problem to you on the windows in my boat, so removed them and took then to a well known local anodising company.

The result was simple awful! The frames came back covered with tiny pinholes (not right through) so that they looked like a relief map of the moon! The annoying thing was that I had been warned by a window manufacturing company that this would happen, but had ignored the advice.

The frames were returned to the anodisers, who deep polished (effectively sanded)them, then re-anodised them. The result was better, but in my opinion still looked worse than when I took them in!!

Apparently the anodising process exposes hitherto unseen pockets of corrosion that the anodising doesn't 'cover' but actually highlights. It is a common problem I have since learnt.

In the end I put the frames in the garage and bought completely new windows and wrote the earlier cost and messing around down to experience.

Frankly I wouldn't dream of going that route with your windows, but swallow hard, and buy new.
 
I have some corrosion on all the frames, and a slight leak on one.

I assume there is very little loss of structural integrity; anyway, I am unlikely to be heaving around in huge seas with greenies smashing across the deck.

Given that, would it be OK to simply scrape out the old, hard seal and refill with UV proof sikaflex as a bodge to last until, say, next year when I plan to renew the frames?

One fisherman in Newhaven swore by the technique. What does the jury think?

Robert
 
Hi karsha,

I'm not an expert on this and without actually seeing your windows, it's difficult to advise. However, surface corrosion is, as you imply, unlikely to cause a signifcant weakness in the frames, so temporary sealing would be fine until permanent replacement is possible next year.

Using Sikaflex (the UV proof version) should be enough to get you dry even in fairly lumpy weather is it's applied properly, and preferably after using the correct Sika primer (horribly expensive!) and a well cleaned surface.
 
Hi. Nick. I presume Widgeon is really Widgeon III, ex BKYC boat, 1995?

I had corrosion on the fixed frames of Stork III, appearing from under the external rubber gasket. I carefully scraped it out avoiding damage to the gasket. That was over 2 years ago and with the exception of one spot, it hasn't returned. I didn't use any sealant afterwards, just wax polish a couple of times in a year, but always wash boat down with fresh water after sailing, where water available. Try it before removal and/or replacement.

Pochard III and Teal III are on the East Coast, Tern III is in the Solent, currently for sale at Transworld.
 
Thanks, I will give that a try. Did you loosen the securing screws to slightly release the outer frame before scraping?

Yes, she is Widgeon III; friends have just sold Petrel III and Skua III is also here in Gosport. Another friend has just sold Mallard II.
 
No, didn't loosen the screws. Frames not leaking so left it that way. Good luck.

With your list thats nearly the set of twelve. Hope to come down to the south coast next summer, will keep an eye out for you.
 
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