window advise needed

[caranova]

Hi everyone, New to the site, and looking for some help.

I've got a problem re-bedding the windows in my Nick 26

Can anyone help with this or have had problems in the past.

cheers

 

[boatmike]

Refer to earlier post re hatch window- sikaflex deterioration. Everything I said there applies

 

[FAITIRA]

Renewed the forward facing windows, hatch acrilic in my Nic 32 Mk X1 a year ago.

 

[castaway]

You don't say what type of windows they are on the Nick 26 but if they are frameless and screwed, or bolted thro, a couple of pointers.

I would paint the inside 'rim' of the acrylic/perspex where the sealant goes...looks betteras the sealent or tape is hidden.

I would use tape rather than sealant..much easier and neater. btw this is closed cell tape and is available from any decent swindlerly.

Counter sink the heads of the csk bolts ..apparently this spreads the load reduces cracking.

If you use sealent, use masking tape in any place where it might sqidge out .

If using sealent tighten down the bolts/screws lightly, then leave it a while ( a day?) to allow the sealent to harden off a bit then tighten fully

Most of this is applicable to framed windows as well of course. I say agian tape is much better than sealent for almost any of these type of jobs..easier too

Regards Nick

 

[caranova]

Re: window advise needed ( boat mike)

Been through the posts,but can't find the site, When did you post it.
Thanks for getting back to me.

 

[boatmike]

Re: window advise needed ( boat mike)

It's 22 posts previous to yours. Title as I said.... relevent text repeated here...

For full information on bonding and sealing windows Sika produce a booklet. "bonded transparency for a clear view" If you follow their instructions to the letter you don't need to use screws at all.
Try to get a copy from your local Sika distributor or through www.sika-industry.com. Briefly there is a primer (206 or 215) that you should use on the GRP prior to bonding and on the window abrade surface on bonding area and prime with 209. Then apply 295UV to give a thickness of at least 5mm (don't bolt up with screws if used and squeeze it all out again!) Afterwards use any reasonable form of protection for the outside of the window to stop direct sunlight.
I did my windows this way when I built the boat 7 years ago and I would have to chisel them off if I wanted to remove them now.
For doubting thomas' who says you need screws or they will leak or fall off look at your car windscreen. Its held on in exactly that way and is printed with a UV protection strip on the outside.... Take a look!

I would add that if you make up some little sika spacers to stand the windows off by 5 mm it will stop you squeezing out the material when bonding.