Windlasses - Is there any routine maintenance?

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RIN

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We have a Lofrans (Airon I think) windlass on our boat and we have never had to do a thing to it. But should we be doing any annual maintenance to it? Its an expensive and important piece of kit and I should be sorry to have it fail through not looking after it properly
 
We too have a Lofrans Airon windlass and it is an excellent piece of kit. I believe the manual advises that you dismantle it occasionally and wash the components with fresh water before spraying with WD40. I have to say that I've never touched mine in 4 yrs of owning the boat and it still works fine
You can download the manual from the Lofrans website
 
Thanks for that - I will strip it down when the boat comes out of the water. It is working ok but it often jams. Last thing you need when trying to anchor. I think I'll also replace the chain this year as it is very rusty
 
it is important to look after it
You do need to take it to bits and use light oil
you will find out how important this is if you ever need to either

deploy anchor quickly by loosening the top

or

raising the anchor by hand

there is a small brass rachet that stops the anchor chain going back down when you have a rest.

It needs light oil every 6 months.
if you use grease it will not work.
 
I have to admit I have never raised the anchor by hand nor in fact have I lowered it as you suggest. There are three sort of horns on the top of the windlass (like a three bladed tap handle) Presumably if I slacken that off the chain will run free? I can't remember exactly but I think there is also a socket in the top for a winch handle presumably to raise the anchor. Can't recall a ratchet though.
 
you can not see it unless you take it to bits.
if you move the chain and wind it by hand you should be able to hear it.
if you have not oiled it for 18 months it will almost certainly be stuck.
Its not a long job, just try not to drop any bits /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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It is working ok but it often jams. Last thing you need when trying to anchor.

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If it's working OK then you'll probably find the jamming is caused by chain getting trapped under more chain in the locker. If you have a lot of chain or you've been bounced around abit in choppy seas, this can easily happen.

Get the anchor out on the pontoon and all your chain, hose it down as you re-stow it, this should help a lot. If it's calibrated chain, it shouldn't jam otherwise.

Problems usually come on the electrics side, so inspect all the connections and give them a water repellent spray too if you can get to them.

Sorry, I can't remember the name of the stuff but it's like WD-40 but thicker and stays wettish.
 
I would also recommend that you service with lots of good grease every year and also from recent bitter experience that you actually remove the motor and the gearbox once every couple of years, grease EVERYTHING and change the oil if it has that facility, if this has not happened you will need a disc cutter to remove it.........(and you learn a whole new vocab!!!!)
 
Well I think we had too much mooring warp, 32 metres of chain and 75 metres of rope on a 30ft boat probably used up most of the anchor locker. I have just cut it down to 32/25 which I think is still pretty safe
 
From LOfrans manual for Airon:

A correct and periodic maintenance operation is essential for the best efficiency of your windlass. At least once every month remove the salt layer , which forms
periodically on the outer casting , to avoid electrolysis problems which could prejudice the windlass performances.

Wash with a fresh water and clean all the
surfaces , particularly in the most hidden points , where salts deposits.

We recommended , at least once every six months , to disassemble the windlass gipsy
following the instructions below.

Standard version : using the handle unscrew (273) , remove (274, 275) then unscrew (217) , remove (288 and 289). Remove (276) and extract (277).
Low profile version :using the handle unscrew (285) then remove (286), unscrew (217) , remove (288 and 289). Remove (276) and extract (277).
Clean and check all the parts , spray all with CRC 3097 "LONG LIFE" or WD40. Watch if there are no electrolysis traces and grease the main shaft thread.


After a long inactivity period , the electric motor could run slowly. We recommend to check and clear the brushes and replace it if necessary.


We strongly recommend to separate , at least once every year , the windlass from the deck to clean and remove the salt layer under the base.


The gearbox is proper filled with SAE 90 long life oil. If there is a leak of oil from the body , it will be necessary to disassemble and replace the seals. For this
purpose , it is available a complete set of seals . At the beginning and at the end of the season , check the motor and control box, removing eventual residues and
covering the terminals with grease .
 
just done mine by the book aforementioned. easy job which had not been done for 5 years but found nothing that was really in need of any attention. pretty bombproof design. 5 year old grease etc still doing perfectly good job, but worth checking out all the same.
 
every time when you raise the anker, salt water will flow over the windleass.
In summer this water will dry quickly, and leave salt in between the rotating parts of the windleass.

A couple of years ago our windleass was completely jammed, due to the salt, the electric trip switched off all the time when using the windleass.

Thats the reason why you should clean regulary with fresh water.
 
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Well I think we had too much mooring warp, 32 metres of chain and 75 metres of rope on a 30ft boat probably used up most of the anchor locker.

[/ QUOTE ]

The amount of rope isn't really a problem for concern. You could have 10 mtrs of chain and 100 of rope if there's room in the locker.

The most important thing is to have the correct 'chain splice' from chain to rope so that it will run through the windlass. If you don't know this splice you can find it in most books of knots and splices, quite easy once you've done it a few times.

Don't forget, it definitely weakens the rope at this point and should be checked periodically, depending on how often you run out the rope section.
 
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