Windlass wiring

[jav301]

Hello

I’ve just fitted a new windlass solenoid. All is finally working but because of the different geometry of the contacts, the windlass negative cable is a very tight fit. So I’d like to extend it.



The means that suggests itself is to use the windlass fixing stud to terminate the original cable and add a short extension link from the stud to the solonoid negative post.



Can you think of any reason not to do this? (I’m not a confident electrician)



Thanks

 

[footsoldier]

Photo, or drawing of what you have in mind, might help

 

[Boathook]

Can't you move the solenoid a bit ?

A picture or two does really help.

What you have suggested could work but it would require insulation on the stud and link to make sure that it can't short out anywhere.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Hello

I’ve just fitted a new windlass solenoid. All is finally working but because of the different geometry of the contacts, the windlass negative cable is a very tight fit. So I’d like to extend it.



The means that suggests itself is to use the windlass fixing stud to terminate the original cable and add a short extension link from the stud to the solonoid negative post.



Can you think of any reason not to do this? (I’m not a confident electrician)



Thanks

It's not good practice to use equipment for current carrying cable.

If you have a hydraulic crimper use a barrel connector to extend the cable. If not, get a short extension cable, with properly crimped ends, and bolt the two together, insulate the joint with self amalgamating tape. You could also join the two cables by using a power post, for instance ; Power Post (8mm) Small Base Red or Black | Electrical Car Services

 

[salar]

I have done exactly that, and used a copper tube butt splice connector like so Copper Tube Butt Splice Connector for 16mm² Cable covered in shrink tube. You need the correct size connector obviously, and a decent crimper.

 

[jav301]

Thanks folks. That's made my mind up. I'll use a substantial connector to a short extension and leave the stud out. I've already moved the solonoid as far as I can without a lot of faff and it is the worry of shorting across the terminals that makes the extension attractive. Will enable the cable to enter from "outside" instead of being stretched between the terminals of the solonoid.