Windlass too weak

[RichardS]

Surely you can release the clutch with a winch handle offset to the edge, by turning in one direction (Anticlockwise)), but retrieve, which will tighten the clutch, by turning and continuing to turn (with a great deal of effort) in the other direction - assuming it has manual retrieval.

I cannot see the need for '2' controls (one in the centre and one in the edge). Maybe if I was not sitting beside a glass of shiraz my thinking might be more clear

Jonathan

Are you sure you've only had the one glass, Jonathan?

If releasing the clutch by turning anticlockwise drops the chain, the turning clockwise will tighten the clutch. Once that's tight then the worm drive is locked to the gypsy and you aren't going to be able to wind in the chain without grinding the teeth off the pinion.

Richard

 

[Neeves]

I didn't say I'd had only one glass, just one glass beside me. I'd had 2 glasses earlier

I've recent changed windlass.

The old one had a clutch release in the centre, released with a winch handle. There was no manual retrieval (other than hauling in the chain by hand - or halyard winch). The new one has an offset 'hole' for a winch handle allowing hand retrieval, it effectively increases the length of the crank. I don't recall there being a central hole to allow clutch release, but it must be there somewhere.

Its a bit late now for remedial efforts and we are entertaining tomorrow - but I'll try to reduce the shiraz consumption if future!

Jonathan

 

[Plevier]

I'm doing some guess work here in the absence of a proper description of how it's wired up, but I don't think the 6 sq mm cable is relevant.
How is your 105Ah battery charged from the engine alternator? Not through this 6 sq mm cable is my guess.
I think your post implies that you have 25 sq mm cable between the windlass and the contactor and the battery, is that right?
Isn't the 6mm cable to the contactor just providing the voltage to operate the contactor, so that you can't operate the windlass without the engine running? I can't imagine you would have a power connection from the alternator directly to the windlass supply in parallel with the one from the battery. It will supply the windlass via the battery connection. The benefit is in keeping the voltage up, which is better for the windlass motor.
The answer to your problem is the clutch that is slipping.

PS If the 6mm cable is for what I think, it doesn't need to be anything like 6 sq mm, 1.5 sq mm would do.