Windlass servicing, what do you service and how often.

Norman,

You make me wonder if a horizontal windlass is 'better' in that the seawater and mud that can simply enter the shaft and bearings of a vertical windlass, through the upper rubber seal under the gypsy, can better drain away for the horizontal shaft.

I'm happy to admit - I know little about windlass :(

Jonathan
 
The unit I encountered was a very old Nilsson, I post this due to the standard of customer service from the company, a level that is rare these days. Prompt, friendly and extremely helpful. Even though the model in question has not been made for ages they either carry or will manufacture all parts for service. Here is what they have to say about servicing http://www.jamesnilsson.com/motors__spares___service/spares/early_nilsson_winches scroll down a bit..
 
I don't know about electric winches but Lofrans manual ones need taking apart, cleaning and greasing annually if corrosion of different materials is to be kept at bay. It's not difficult and can be done without removing it from the boat.
 
Yngmar said:
This thread evokes vague feelings of guilt focused around the bow. Unfortunately no videos for a Lofrans Cayman - the manual just says to take off the gypsy and rinse the bits with some water, then add grease, but no idea how to even open the rest of it. Anyone done a Cayman?
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I have a Lofrans Kobra, same service kit as the Cayman- this YouTube (there's 4 altogether) shows how simple a service is.

http://youtu.be/daJBBSqcgNI
 
We have a Lofrans Falkon. Great windlass. Horizontal type above decks so easy to service, which I assume is the reason why it lasted 33 years. The case had badly corroded so I replaced the whole thing with a new Lofrans Falkon a couple of years ago.
 
If you have a vertical windlass, if possible, it is worth fitting a deflection plate so that the motor and gearbox don't get sprayed with saltwater.

Worth a look while you are doing the service.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I don't know about electric winches but Lofrans manual ones need taking apart, cleaning and greasing annually if corrosion of different materials is to be kept at bay. It's not difficult and can be done without removing it from the boat.
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Also Lofrans electric ones, and preferably more often than once a year. The manual says "....at least once every six months" and they mean it, especially if the drum is alloy on a S/S shaft, as many are. After a major fight to get the drum and gypsy off a couple of years ago (total several hours work over a week, including penetrating oil, heat and mallets) I now check it disassembles OK every couple of months.
 
Thanks Noelex, I will be installing a deflector plate during the next week. I'm also thinking of taking a large plastic bottle, and sliding over the electric motor (drain holes in bottom), large enough to allow decent airflow. But I need to grind the case down and repaint.

Is there some reason, other than built in obsolescence, that the motor covers are mild steel.

I note that newer windlass are now being made with composite cases instead of the more usual cast aluminium it saves weight and removes one component that can corrode..


I note that Lofrans are very popular, no-one has mentioned Lewmar, Maxwell/Vetus, Muir - nor the one I really like - Lighthouse.


We have disassembled our Muir Atlantic, which prompted the thread, bolts corroded so badly had to chop them off, heat was an option but I'd have set the catamaran on fire first ;(. Motor case badly corroded. The exploded diagram was incorrect.

Jonathan
 
With the motor and gearbox chopped off, previous post, and it being safe to apply lots of heat, WD40 and some arduous work with punch and hammer to even more seized bolts I have taken the gearbox apart. I had not realised muddy oil was such a commendable lubricant :( but maybe its not mud but abraded gear teeth :( - yet to check.

Having chopped off the bolts, to release the gear box and motor I was concerned that where I had attacked it with an angle grinder would necessitate a new gear box case. However I find that the top and bottom plates of the gear box look identical and I can simply reverse the plates, making the nice undamaged bottom one into a new top plate, to take the securing bolts.

When it is replaced I shall adhere to advise, annual service and equally important make sure the assembly bolts and studs cannot corrode and turn into one immovable lump. The advise to service on a work bench was more than correct, don't try to service on a yacht it might be very messy and its easier with a fair amount of space and ability to safely apply lots of heat.

Thanks for the educated comments.

Jonathan
 
jonrarit said:
and an "after" picture View attachment 54996
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Jon,

Looks lovely, it gives me something to aim for! :)

Knowing that the motor case is mild steel subject to a constant salt and water environment and are looking for another 30 years did you paint or prepare in any special way. I've painted steel lots of times but have no experience of painting in such an aggressive environment. I'm not so optimistic to think my painting will last that long - what did you do.


I guess electric motors are another commodity so maybe asking too much for the motor maker to make with a special case - but you might think that its something windlass companies could look at - a composite case cannot be that difficult (though given the interest in this thread I suspect no-one, except we select few, would be prepared to pay any extra for a corrosion free case. The latest models have lots of composite that previously would be cast, the housing for horizontal windlass that was alloy is, can be, now composite, gearbox casings are now, or can be, composite.....

Jonathan
 
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Neeves said:
and are looking for another 30 years did you paint or prepare in any special way.Jonathan
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No nothing special just plasticote enamel. It's obviously cleaned well before painting and I finding warming the surface with an air gun helps the long term adhesion of the paint. Also a liberal spray of WD40 once in situ doesn't do any harm in protecting the finish.

To be honest I really don't expect the paint to last more than a few years before needing done again

jr
 
I wasn't aware that the manual recommended such frequent maintenance. Many are lucky if they get done every 6 years!
jwilson said:
Also Lofrans electric ones, and preferably more often than once a year. The manual says "....at least once every six months" and they mean it, especially if the drum is alloy on a S/S shaft, as many are. After a major fight to get the drum and gypsy off a couple of years ago (total several hours work over a week, including penetrating oil, heat and mallets) I now check it disassembles OK every couple of months.
Click to expand...
 
Jon, I did not think you were serious about the longevity of the paint work :) - but it still looks good.


Maxwell are suggesting

Every 3 months disassemble and clean

Every year, use services of qualified technician to service motor and (owner) make remedial paintwork for rust on motor

Every 3 years the gearbox should be serviced by an authorised service agent.

Viewing the few replies and lack of Forum activity on the subject I'd conclude windlass are, largely, not serviced.

Jonathan
 
Thedreamoneday said:
I have a Lofrans Kobra, same service kit as the Cayman- this YouTube (there's 4 altogether) shows how simple a service is.

http://youtu.be/daJBBSqcgNI
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Thanks, looks like mine comes apart in a similar fashion, although I have some doubts about there being enough room to pop off the motor cover (it's installed inside the anchor locker). Something to try once the weather gets a bit friendlier again.
 
Having looked at a few vertical windlass, smaller ones upto 12mm/1/2", they all have same basic components and are assembled in the same or similar way. Even the components 'look' similar. Service is simple, disassembly varies in ease and different manufacturers have different solutions to the same problems. I have found the biggest issue is leaving it too long and the bolts or screws are corroded solid and there is insufficient space to work with hammer and punch or blow torch.

Newer windlass are easier to work with than older ones as certainly some manufacturers have put some effort into making disassembly easy - Maxwell new models can have the motor and gearbox removed with a simply composite twist sleeve (so no corrosion implications) and a spring clip and 2 bolts hold the gearbox to motor. I'm guessing Maxwell/Vetus are not unique.

But if you were to service regularly (that unknown schedule) the YouTube referenced by Thedreamoneday will give a good good idea for most.many verticals.

I do not know enough, anything, about horizontal windlass to know if they are also similar to each other.

Jonathan
 
Neeves said:
Thanks Noelex, I will be installing a deflector plate during the next week. I'm also thinking of taking a large plastic bottle, and sliding over the electric motor (drain holes in bottom), large enough to allow decent airflow. But I need to grind the case down and repaint.

Jonathan
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Very wise my new motor only lasted two seasons due to water ingress. Here is what I did.
View attachment 55041
 
My biggest problem has been corrosion on my joins to the thin wires from the foot switches.

Annually I service the drum and gypsy and this winter, took the cover off to check the brushes on the motor.
Some water ingress and corrosion after 10 years of heavy use[I use the boat as a committee boat so anchor an lot]. I also use the winch to hoist the dinghy aboard.
I have used sealant to improve the joint seal.

Lofrans Tigres
 
Lofrans appear a popular brand?

My hawse pipe, sounds very grand - the hole in the deck under the windlass where the chain falls - is lined with domestic plastic plumbing pipe (the deck has been reinforced with marine ply and it must be 2" thick) - I think I might sleeve mine, with the next size smaller, and extend as KREW2 has done - and cover the motor with, maybe, a domestic sewer pipe (something large).

I assume that waterproof sprays, like silicone etc - are not much use in the rather harsh environment of the anchor locker?

Jonathan
 
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