Windlass question

[winsbury]

Ive just fitted a Lofrans Royal which looks very smart and works great on the anchor chain. But I have some questions that aren't answered by the manual or after extensive searching for info:

1. what is the intended practical purpose of the rope winch drum other than looking impressive ?

2. what is the purpose of the protuberance at the aft end as its useless as a general purpose cleat being only 'half-a-cleat' so to speak. I imagine this is for putting a loop of rope over to hold the anchor in place on the bow fitting but is this correct ?

3. what is the procedure when the anchor chain runs out and gets to the warp; my chain is 20m + 50m octoplait. There seem to be some fairly aggressively shaped mouldings deep down in its groove which don't look rope friendly or should the rope drum take over the work somehow even though its offset from the bow roller ?

 

[prv]

1. what is the intended practical purpose of the rope winch drum other than looking impressive ?

Handling rope anchor warps, perhaps on a kedge. Occasionally for mooring lines on larger boats.

2. what is the purpose of the protuberance at the aft end as its useless as a general purpose cleat being only 'half-a-cleat' so to speak. I imagine this is for putting a loop of rope over to hold the anchor in place on the bow fitting but is this correct ?

I would have thought more for a big loop on the end of a swinging mooring pendant, avoiding the need for a big central cleat.

3. what is the procedure when the anchor chain runs out and gets to the warp; my chain is 20m + 50m octoplait.

Depends whether the gypsy is meant to be a rope & chain one or chain only. If the former, and assuming you have a suitable splice between the two, it should just pass over the joint and carry on. If it's a chain-only gypsy, you'd need to transfer to the warping drum.

Pete

 

[vyv_cox]

We replaced our Maxwell without a capstan for one with one, specifically for hauling in lazy lines. With the full blast of the meltemi blowing on the bow and heavy chain on the lower part of the line we found it extremely difficult to haul in sufficiently to keep the stern off the pontoon. Having the capstan has transformed the berthing operation.

 

[Billjratt]

1. what is the intended practical purpose of the rope winch drum other than looking impressive ?

We use it for winding people up the mast and raising masts between boats, best to have a nice big block attached near to the bow roller to get a good lead.

 

[winsbury]

I would have thought more for a big loop on the end of a swinging mooring pendant, avoiding the need for a big central cleat.

hmm, maybe as a temporary measure that would be okay. Everything Ive read seems to suggest that the windlass is not intended for taking a mooring load; I cant see how it would be possible to ensure the loop either didn't fall down (which could allow snatch loads) or possibly jump off as there's no horn to secure it properly.

Depends whether the gypsy is meant to be a rope & chain one or chain only.

I just spoke to Force4 who confirmed the gypsy on the Royal is only intended for chain, there's no option to add a dual purpose one which is a right 'Royal' pain ( pun intended ) as I hadn't appreciated that limitation and really don't want the weight of an all chain rode in the bow of my relatively small boat. So I guess the next problem is how to transfer the load over from the gypsy without loosing a finger in the process.

 

[prv]

hmm, maybe as a temporary measure that would be okay. Everything Ive read seems to suggest that the windlass is not intended for taking a mooring load; I cant see how it would be possible to ensure the loop either didn't fall down (which could allow snatch loads) or possibly jump off as there's no horn to secure it properly.

The "mooring load" thing refers to leaving the chain in the gypsy to secure it. That can supposedly damage internal pawls etc or even bend the main axle. Dropping a loop over the whole windlass should be ok, I would think, as they generally have heftier bolting arrangements than a cleat would.

Don't understand what you mean about a loop slipping down - it can't get any lower than the deck. But this is only my guess as to the purpose of the "horn" anyway.

Pete

 

[winsbury]

The "mooring load" thing refers to leaving the chain in the gypsy to secure it. That can supposedly damage internal pawls etc or even bend the main axle. Dropping a loop over the whole windlass should be ok, I would think, as they generally have heftier bolting arrangements than a cleat would.

Indeed, damage to the workings is the reason cited but you're right it would be a similar function to a sampson post provided none of the moving bits were used to tie off to. Windlasses that have a proper double horn cleat are much more obvious, its the single horn that got me wondering.

So that just leaves the question of how on earth to transfer from chain to warp safely or do I have to bite the bullet and get a longer chain

 

[Talulah]

Use an anchor snubber. The chain will go slack. You can then pull the warp through and transfer it onto the drum.
Then release the snubber.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cA2AJlf0lwE

 

[Tranona]

When the chain comes up, use a chain hook or a stopper to hold the chain while you transfer to the chain gypsy. In practice think you will find with all 20m chain plus some rope out it will be easier to haul the rope by hand and then drop the chain on the windlass for the last 20m.

 

[neil1967]

you could use a device to take the load off the chain/rode once it was in far enough (either one of those one way 'flipper' things, or a chain hook that links into the top of the chain and then can be tied off). once there is no load it should be easy to transfer the chain/rode to the chain gypsy - assuming you still have sufficent chain down that you are not floating free on the tide!

Neil

 

[winsbury]

Thanks people, perfect !... I already have one of the gizmos below which I use to snub the chain to hold the anchor in the bow roller when stowed and back to a cleat when anchored in shallow water to take the strain off the windlass but with the same length of rope hooked over the windlass horn it will hold the chain while I move the warp over without having to tie a rolling hitch so is quick to do into the bargain.

Asking swmbo to hauling the rope by hand until the chain appears will be fine light airs and slack water but the snubbing method will be much better when stronger wind or tide is keeping pressure on the system.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/6-8MM-Stainless-Steel-Mooring-Device-Anchor-Chain-Lock-Gripper-Boat-Marine-/00/s/NDUwWDYwMA==/$T2eC16J,!zEE9s3!(HziBQbsbkobFg~~60_1.JPG

 

[sarabande]

. So I guess the next problem is how to transfer the load over from the gypsy without loosing a finger in the process.

Have you come across these chain snubbers / grips ?

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products/yacht-ropes---rigging/anchor-warps/custom-chain-snubbers

 

[winsbury]

Have you come across these chain snubbers / grips ?

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products/yacht-ropes---rigging/anchor-warps/custom-chain-snubbers

hi yes I have seen those too but I already have a similar device which does the same job - see the link in the previous listing.

 

[Billjratt]

Interesting gizmo, haven't seen one like that before.
If you've enough distance between the bow roller and the capstan, there's a stainless steel cleat available - like a samson post tilted slightly back with a slot in the rear face to take the chain. All you need to do is push the (taught) chain down into the slot, then ease the capstan. When it's time to haul, simply wind in and the chain automatically releases from the slot. Ideal for temporary pausing while swapping from gipsy to drum as well.
Unfortunately I haven't managed to source one for my current boat - The last boat was American and for all I know the cleat may have been made to order, but it was a pleasure to use.