Windlass Problems

[Tidewaiter2]

Said windlass sluggish last season, ran then stopped for a breather, ran again, etc, etc. It's a SEAWOLF from Simpson Lawrence- prob original fitting to 16 year old boat. Surface mounted, with electrics in chain locker. Has to have engine running due to current drain.

This year, nothing at all when switched on and footswitch pressed.
Dismantled and cleaned UP only footswitch, nothing.
Checked visible electrics for loose/corroded connections, tightened/cleaned, still nothing.
Traced all wires-found wires from footswitch and batteries/motor to what looks like a Relay Switch. Battery/motor wires run to two substantial terminals on top, footswitch to two small ones at side of top.

Has Name; Albright in red, TYPE: SW80-374P, Voltage:12, Made in England.
1) Would I be right in thinking this is a 80 amp Relay Switch?
2) Could We replace with an 80 amp waterproof Circuit breaker?
3) Or should we replace Like with Like?

Footswitch wires to small terminals on side of top heavily corroded. When I tried to free them to clean them up and test system, one terminal/pole loosened inside the casing and now rotates and lifts!!

4)Suspect the corrosion here may be the cause of our windlass problems last season?
5) Could also be brushes on motor?

Any advice gratefully received, got a friend with crocus paper,who can deal with 5) on boat Thursday/Friday, but now need to buy replacement for Albright ?Switch before then. Preferably more seawater resistant!
Cheers
Dick T.

 

[omega2]

We had the same problem. Nothing to do with the wiring, in the end we found the brushes were worn out, not difficult to get at.

 

[pvb]

Yes, it's a solenoid switch, and you can't replace it with a circuit breaker. You can buy another Albright switch - eg here - it's claimed to be waterproof. Alternatively, look for a proper windlass control box - search for lofrans control and you'll find them for about £60. The windlass control boxes usually have two outputs (for up and down), so you'd just need to use one of the outputs if you only have an Up switch.

 

[Tidewaiter2]

Many Thanks to you both, Omega2 & PVB for your help and good advice.

Have gone for the straight SW80-374P replacement option right now, in view of its footprint on the electrics panel on chain locker roof. Not much space to play with. Thanks for the link to stockist- tried Albright web page and by e-mail just before your post, as the 374P model not shown on web page.

We'll go for a Lofrans control when this windlass is finally up for replacement- our Southerly has a moulded podium for one button only in the bows, so will probably install a plug in gland and a detachable two way flex remote then.
Cheers
Dick T.

 

[peterbringloe]

Could try this chap - very helpfull with my S L windlass http://www.slspares.co.uk/

 

[Tidewaiter2]

Update on problem-motor had burnt out armature and thin crack right across across commutator- solved by rewire and new commutator by Solent Rewinds Ltd in Hilsea- good job and honest advice from Tony and Andy.
Windlass totally stripped and freed up, power to motor, switch & relay clicks, still not running the gears mind /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thats sailing.

 

[Billjratt]

Are you in the habit of lying to the chain on the windlass rather than cleating off?
Did you RENEW the bearings?
Is there play on the worm shaft?