Windlass - circuit breaker, why?

[symondo]

I kno the obvious answer but what im curious about is:

When the unit is not in use - do you 'break' it to avoid any potential shorts etc... or keep it live?

and obviously if it does pop you can easily reset it providing there is no actual shortages within the circuit.

My reason for asking is what would be the disadvantage of using a fuse instead? and then using a relay to activate/de activate the main power circuit via a switch at the helm?

 

[Bru]

We've only just acquired the equipment in question and we've only used the windlass twice but my intention is to pop the breaker when its not in use to prevent accidental activation of the windlass by somebody stepping on one of the buttons if the cover flips open (as we've noted they can do in a stiff breeze from astern for example)

So my take on it was to isolate for physical rather than electrical safety

Edit: I just realised that the above might be the obvious answer referred to in the OP!

 

[Hoolie]

Following advice from previous long-lost threads, I fitted a breaker in the anchor locker. The logic is that in some circumstances if your anchor is fouled or jammed the windlass will stall and can trip the breaker. If this happens you need to be able to reset it without leaving the fore-deck. The breaker is fully waterproof and has to date never tripped in service.

 

[symondo]

Following advice from previous long-lost threads, I fitted a breaker in the anchor locker. The logic is that in some circumstances if your anchor is fouled or jammed the windlass will stall and can trip the breaker. If this happens you need to be able to reset it without leaving the fore-deck. The breaker is fully waterproof and has to date never tripped in service.

thats an intersting thought actually. I was always under the impresson breakers should be close to the battery to isolate any potnetial live wires making thier way into the boat.

 

[Hoolie]

I have battery isolators as well, close to the batteries.

 

[l'escargot]

I've got both a circuit breaker and an battery isolator switch on mine. The isolator for when it isn't in use to prevent accidental activation and the circuit breaker to cut out if it overloads or develops a fault when in use.

 

[symondo]

I've got both a circuit breaker and an battery isolator switch on mine. The isolator for when it isn't in use to prevent accidental activation and the circuit breaker to cut out if it overloads or develops a fault when in use.

To isolate i was debating using a switch on a relay so it could be activated from the helm, and then using 1 of those covered switches to avoid accidental activation?

 

[owen-cox]

You should definitely have the fuse or circuit breaker as near to the battery as possible so that if there is any electrical short from one cable to another you dont have a big bar heater running the length of your boat I would also isolate it with either a switch or relay at the supply end for the same reason.

 

[l'escargot]

To isolate i was debating using a switch on a relay so it could be activated from the helm, and then using 1 of those covered switches to avoid accidental activation?

Sounds a bit complicated. I've just got one of those battery isolators with a removable red key, just for the windlass, down near the master battery switch and the circuit breaker just up from it

 

[symondo]

Sounds a bit complicated. I've just got one of those battery isolators with a removable red key, just for the windlass, down near the master battery switch and the circuit breaker just up from it

My thoughts of using a relay would be to remove the need to go and turn the circuit on manually - fairly easy to wire but wasnt sure if it was an accetable way of doing it or if there was anything that may hinder this which is why others dont do it

 

[estarzinger]

There are a lot of ways to skin this cat but I would offer two general principles - (1) the fewer connections in the circuit the better - less electrical resistance and fewer points for failure, and (2) you want the circuit protection near the battery.

Put together, those suggest to me, that you want just a circuit breaker near the batteries.

And to the OP's actual question - I presume you can drop the anchor without power, by releasing the clutch? If so, then there is no pressing safety need to keep it 'live' and it arguably makes some sense to turn the breaker off when sailing for some length of time. But I will say that I basically only turn mine off for ocean passages, and never for say overnight sails. Accidental activation at sea has really not been any a problem.

 

[Alpha22]

That is going to be a fairly hefty relay.... KISS - breaker for overload condition and red switch close to battery to isolate for safety.

 

[nigelmercier]

Am I missing something here? There is already a heavy duty relay in the circuit, it's in the control box. To isolate the windlass, just remove the switching voltage from it. Of course this doesn't work if the relay sticks, but it will only do that on a switch over.

 

[coopec]

"ELECTRICAL



See Wiring Diagrams for wiring instructions.



Circuit breaker (must be fitted to ensure warranty)

If the windlass is overloaded or stalled the circuit breaker will automatically cut power to the windlass and protect the wiring and motor. The circuit breaker should not be used as an isolating switch (My emphasis)

I know Muir Winches recommend putting the circuit breaker near the winch but I can't find where they actually say it

 

[coopec]

Obviously I have more reading to do.

Electrical components

Circuit breaker: at the very least, every electric windlass circuit must have some sort of appropriately sized circuit protection, a heavy-duty circuit breaker located as close as possible to the battery bank, (My emphasis) in a dry place that’s easily accessible. The breaker must be sized to handle the expected operating load, yet protect the wiring from a very high current draw and/or a short circuit. Remember that circuit protection will not protect the motor from sustained high load usage, which can cause heat buildup in the motor without tripping a breaker. Windlasses are designed to operate for short periods of time only.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...oreId=11151&page=Windlass-Wiring#.UwwJF4WXgR4

 

[GrahamM376]

The circuit breaker should not be used as an isolating switch (My emphasis)

I know Muir Winches recommend putting the circuit breaker near the winch but I can't find where they actually say it

Circuit breaker needs to be as close to the supply as practical to protect the cable runs. I always use our breaker as an isolator to avoid accidents in case someone trips a foot switch inadvertently.

 

[GandJ]

An additional safety inline cut-off switch (for the operator) is also good practice as deck switches often fail/corrode and a means of quickly shutting off a rampant windlass is essential!

 

[Mrnotming]

An additional safety inline cut-off switch (for the operator) is also good practice as deck switches often fail/corrode and a means of quickly shutting off a rampant windlass is essential!

Agree, on an Oceania 41.1 my size 11 convinced the down button to stick powered on,deploying all the chain rode.Disconcerting as shouting back for the energiser to be switched off was greeted with incredulity!
Bad things happen! Perhaps a remote is more reliable,often wonder why mobos anchoring systems are so much better organised than production AWB's