Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
As does Lewmar which it describes as "waterproof grease for many applications", but now they also supply thin oily stuff called - wait for it - "Race Lube".
Winches
- Thread starter Neil
- Start date
As does Lewmar which it describes as "waterproof grease for many applications", but now they also supply thin oily stuff called - wait for it - "Race Lube".
[70521]
Well-Known Member
But my winches are not Harken or Lewmar.
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Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
So perhaps you can tell us the make of winch that should not be greased so we all know
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
My reefing winch is a Barton Australia one. I have been told that the reason it is almost uselessly stiff is that previous owners have greased it, causing the plastic bearing surface on the. spindle to swell up.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
[70521]
Well-Known Member
Barlow, and yes the manual does say that a “waterproof grease” can be used, but this was a heavily smeared in thick industrial grease a bit like the fatburg on the news today - no wonder the old thing was struggling and after much careful excavating, Time Team would have been proud of my efforts, I was able to extract the pawls and scrape off the fatburg, give it a good clean and light oil that will last until she comes out the water next month.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I thought it was Barton, but that may be sloppy reading. I shall check next time I am on the boat. Thank you very much indeed - I see that spares are available for Barlow winches including "Delrin bearings for aluminium drums". If you have saved me the cost of replacing the winch then I most certainly owe you a pint.
rob2
Well-Known Member
Yes, I had this problem originally with the Lewmar 30s (2 speed) and the replacement ST30s (also 2 speed). The solution was stolen from the refurb of Gigi - the Co32. The stancjions beside the winch platforms have been replaced with offset ones, so that I can get a full turn of the winch handle without rapping my knuckles. http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy87/rob2hook/Mojo - my Weston 8500/P1010006.jpg
Rob.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
My Barlows were not very good but like my even worse Viking winches they worked better with vasaline. Trouble was that vasaline turns to powder & has to be fully stripped each year. Better than grease though
penfold
Well-Known Member
The problem isn't grease per se, but that all grease is not created equal; Harken grease is excellent stuff for winch bearings, although it's wildly expensive. They are a little coy about its specifications, I think it's a 00 grade(very light, almost fluid; general purpose grease is usually grade 1 or 0, much heavier and stickier) grease although what base it is isn't obvious; the clarity suggests silicone, but there are other possibilities. Greasing winch pawls isn't a good idea either, grease should only be on the bearings; for pawls a smear of Harken's own(again wildly expensive) 'pawl oil' or a squirt of aerosol PTFE drylube would be best.
A good indicator of a well serviced(and in decent condition) winch with the right grease in its bearings and oiled(not greased) pawls is that it will continue spinning for a bit if you burl it round with your hand and let go; with the wrong grease it will stop pretty much dead.
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Seajet
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My winches, which like oil ( even if it hasn't got ' magic racing stuff ' written on it ) but hate and fail to operate with grease, are 1977 vintage Lewmar.
William_H
Well-Known Member
Op should concentrate on his old winches. If the barrel will not come off even with circlip missing then it needs to be rotated with upward pressure. When he gets one apart he will know what he is up against. If it is really stiff try a 10mm rope wrapped around 4 or 5 times then twisted or clamped to make a handle that is a good grip on the barrel. Speak to it with a hammer and try lever pressure from underneath with large screw drivers. To make it easier to move try petrol or similar solvent liberally splashed down the handle hole to hopefully soften the grease.
Winches should be opened up and cleaned frequently as said with little grease on bearings and oil on pauls. I dont think type of grease is nearly as important as frequent servicing.
I don't personally think Self tailing winches are worth the cost. Indeed the difference might go a long way towards a tiller pilot for single handed sailing. good luck olewill
Winches should be opened up and cleaned frequently as said with little grease on bearings and oil on pauls. I dont think type of grease is nearly as important as frequent servicing.
I don't personally think Self tailing winches are worth the cost. Indeed the difference might go a long way towards a tiller pilot for single handed sailing. good luck olewill
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
An alternative solution for when a winch is mounted so that you can't swing the winch handle properly is to install it at an angle. Cut a pad for it to sit on at an angle that will enable the handle be swung and bob's your uncle. Just make sure that the lead to the winch is still OK. In the couple of times I have done this, it hasn't been a problem. I think it looks often neater than a cranked or 'offset' guard rail stanchion but take your pick.
I was always told that cranking a winch handle back and fore doesn't do the pawls any good. "Winches are designed to be wound" was beaten into me from an early age.