winch wiring

[orgescott]

Hi Guys, just started a new job and was faced with an electrical problem (new to boats).

The winch at the rear of the boat is controlled by a Vetus handheld box with a curly lead terminated with a three pin plug. No problems when it is connected to its 3pin socket at the rear - the winch raises and lowers perfectly.

When at the bridge the Vetus can also be plugged in but, does not work, traced a multicore cable that is connected to the wiring via a set of 4 miniture relays.

This cable returns into the bow of the boat and lays just underneath where the winch is located.

The multicore cable has been stripped back - should there be another box attached to this cable?.

Kind regards

 

[Evadne]

Electricity works the same on a boat as anywhere else, although sometimes it doesn't seem that way. It sounds like you may need to get someone to look at it if you're not happy fault-finding yourself.

From your description, it sounds like the box switches relays which operate the winch, and there are two places where it can plug in. The relays switch the winch so that the box doesn't have to carry large currents. If this is so then the cable from the 3-pin plug at the stern should go to a set of relays as well. That being the case either the other set of relays are not working, or are not connected, or have never been connected. If you have a working circuit and an identical non-working one then you should be able to spot the bit that is broken or disconnected by comparison. Common problems are corroded connections, burnt out relays and things that have been deliberately or accidentally disconnected.

Sorry not to be more helpful, but there is really no substitute for a circuit diagram or poking around with a multimeter.

 

[steve_cronin]

If you're referring to an anchor windlass with two control positions then I think that I can, if not help, then explain the situation.

Several boats, particularly ones used in the Med. have this arrangement. However some simply have two "curly lead" remote controls wired in parallel. This can be dangerous since the motors in these windlasses have two sets of windings one for up and one for down. They are controlled by a control box which is simply a dual relay which connects the power one way for up and the other for down. Imagine what might happen if both got connected at the same time! So, it is important that when dual control is fitted then a method of isolating the unused controller is accomodated. This is either done by making one station (say the cockpit) the master and installing a changeover switch there to isloate the control which is to be denied. This is simple and straightforward (mine is like this) However it does have the drawback that you might go to the bow having not switched over to that controller. In which case you will need to alert someone in the cockpit to switch over for you (possibly dangerous if someone inexperienced hits the actual windlass control instead) or rush back there yourself. To overcome this, some more sophisticated craft use extra relays so that the operation of one control isolates the other at that time. Sounds like this is what you have. It is though, due to the number of relays used, more prone to failure.

The easiest of all of course is to have two three pin sockets wired in parallel to the main windlass control box and only allow one hand controller to be in use at any time, keeping the other locked away as a spare. This can of course generate a rush around at mooring time looking for the hand control. You pays your money etc...


Steve Cronin

 

[orgescott]

Thanks guys for replying. Safety is of course king. Are there any sites I could visit to obtain wiring/schematic on the basic principles of winches or any other electrical/electronic equipment on boats.

Kind regards

 

[halcyon]

Passing thought, four relays at bridge, two relays control rear, two relays control front, selector switch to power front or rear pair. Thus providing isolation and interlock between front and rear winches.

Brian