will ptfe tape stop muy engine anode working?

Burnham Bob

Burnham Bob

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my beta 14 has a pencil anode which screws into the heat exchanger. i'm always afraid of tightening it up too much in case it strips the thread. it looks like seawater has been leaking out. when i replace this time i was thinking of using a bit of ptfe tape. however, although the anode will still be in the same seawater epectrolyte (?) might the ptfe tape isolate the anode from the heat exchanger defeating the object? advice welcome as i simply don't know.
 
It could do, and is perhaps not advisable. I've never had any leakage problem with the Beta anode, maybe you are being too cautious with tightening.
If you do use PTFE tape or some other type of sealant, an easy check to make would be electrical continuity between the anode hexagon and some other part of the engine or heat-exchanger. Look for a resistance of 1 ohm or less.
 
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I don't know that engine but may be it has a soft copper washer under the head of the anode holder. It is this that prevents leakage as it deforms slightly when you tighten down. Whenever you replace the anode you should fit a new copper washer (they aren't expensive) or else anneal the existing one by heating it to a cherry red colour and then cooling it.

If it's a tapered thread then a couple of turns of ptfe tape won't hurt because it is so soft that the thread will cut through it easily and maintain electrical contact
 
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parsifal said:
I don't know that engine but may be it has a soft copper washer under the head of the anode holder. It is this that prevents leakage as it deforms slightly when you tighten down. Whenever you replace the anode you should fit a new copper washer (they aren't expensive) or else anneal the existing one by heating it to a cherry red colour and then cooling it.
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copper on an aluminum HE :rolleyes:
 
Aluminium washer perhaps?
If the anode tightens against the wall of the HE, putting some sealant on the thread won't hurt.
 
The anode screws into the end cap, which is bronze I think.

As I see it, the end caps are not supposed to be in electrical contact with neither the HE tube stack (brass/copper?) nor with the HE tank (some kind of alu alloy) as these should be isolated by the o-rings. (Though there might be contact between the end cap and the stack through the bolt).

I have cured some seeping from the pencil anode thread with a little copper fat.
 
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Have had two different ones on mine (both from Beta), but no washer. I assumed that they are interference or taper fit but may be wrong. Just get it clean and do it up a little bit tighter and if should not leak.
 
As BabaYaga has pointed out, the joint is brass on brass so you will not strip the thread by giving it a good nip

Not having copper grease on the boat, I have tended to use a blob of silicone grease and never had a problem.

I am not sure if copper grease on aluminium would cause a practical problem. I tend to doubt it, tho I do not use it on al alloy in the same spirit that I always touch wood for good luck.
 
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ptfe I would have thought just more or less seals but it doesn't stop thread to thread contact.
if you remove a fitting which ptfe has been used its just in the valleys of the thread.
 
BabaYaga said:
The anode screws into the end cap, which is bronze I think.

As I see it, the end caps are not supposed to be in electrical contact with neither the HE tube stack (brass/copper?) nor with the HE tank (some kind of alu alloy) as these should be isolated by the o-rings. (Though there might be contact between the end cap and the stack through the bolt).

I have cured some seeping from the pencil anode thread with a little copper fat.
Click to expand...

The OP refers to a Beta 14. I assume that's the same as a Beta 13. In that engine the anode screws into the body of the HE. I never experienced any leakage, can't remember what kind of washer it had, but a fibre one might fit the bill.
 
earlybird said:
It could do, and is perhaps not advisable. I've never had any leakage problem with the Beta anode, maybe you are being too cautious with tightening.
If you do use PTFE tape or some other type of sealant, an easy check to make would be electrical continuity between the anode hexagon and some other part of the engine or heat-exchanger. Look for a resistance of 1 ohm or less.
Click to expand...

This; if you're concerned test with a meter, but 1-2 turns of ordinary PTFE(as opposed to the thicker stuff sometimes sold for gas pipe fitting) will be unlikely prevent electrical continuity; if it does just remove and refit until continuity is achieved. 1 ohm is a bit optimistic though, anything less than 100 will be fine as the currents created are milliamps.
 
I tried ptfe on my volvo to stop the white fuzz .

It stopped. Unfortunately, the anode stopped working. I showed it to a volvspec dealer and he confirmed that it was not working. Bit like a soft banana.

That's how I felt when the dealer got it out of me that I had used ptfe.

I have cleaned the threads on the pencil stick in the hope that I will get a better seal.
 
A small blob of Fernox LS-X, available from any good plumber's merchant, will seal the pathway for water but allow metal to metal contact where possible. When you need to replace it, the soft curing LS-X will be removable by rubbing it with your fingers.
 
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