Wi Fi Booster

[EugeneR]

I've used several long range devices but this is the one I currently use and it seems to work the best for me.
(this one wouldn't be required if you use a Bullet)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-...6416&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+router+high+power

Although described as high power, I note that in CE countries this device is limited to EIRP of 20dBm (100mW), and EIRP of 27dBm (500mW) for FCC countries. This is lower than the 1000mW for earlier-mentioned devices, and all else being equal (cable/antenna) this would not have the same range.

I wonder, though, if the latter devices exceed the CE and FCC limits and could cause disruption to local transmissions?

 

[Tempus]

OK what you say makes sense. The wave is the dearest one I have ben able to find and I dont know why its so much more than others.

Have a look at "on board wi fi" that does seema good compromise at £270 alreadt to go.

But now you have mentioned the cable?? can you expalin the differences?

There are 2 ways of powering and connecting these devices:

THe bullet has a simple ethernet plug in cable as you have in a router. It has an operating voltage range of 10v-24v so works fine on a boat 12v system. You need to "pipe" the power into the ethernet cable and you do this with a POE (Power over Ethernet) injector. They are very cheap!. No need to regulate the volatage. You can then plug the "unpowered" part of the ethernet cable into a normal domestic router, or your Laptop's LAN port.


For an example - see here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Solwise-Bas...8&qid=1393239542&sr=1-9&keywords=POE+injector

The other way is via USB. USB is limited on run-length, but that can be got around, and you cannot plug into a normal dosmestic router. Alfa use this system, and while I have no personal experience, many happy users are out there.

 

[matm]

Has anyone experience of the digital yacht booster and wi fi hot spot installation

I've had a WL510 Digital Yacht for about 18 months now. I added a cheapo mini-wireless router to it and it works just fine. Good for multiple IP devices and pretty much works like you would expect at home. Also use Samsung Smart TVs on the boat and it's fine for streaming netflix etc.

However, per other comments above, you have to login to the WL510 should you change location. Nice interface but quite techie - fine for me but some may struggle. I've never tried its 4-6 mile claim either (why would you...)

 

[Powersalt]

I've had a WL510 Digital Yacht for about 18 months now. I added a cheapo mini-wireless router to it and it works just fine. Good for multiple IP devices and pretty much works like you would expect at home. Also use Samsung Smart TVs on the boat and it's fine for streaming netflix etc.

However, per other comments above, you have to login to the WL510 should you change location. Nice interface but quite techie - fine for me but some may struggle. I've never tried its 4-6 mile claim either (why would you...)

ok, that's interesting. Did you have it installed with aerial on the arch etc? And another stupid question do you have to run 12/24 volt up to the aerial?

 

[oGaryo]

MedMilo,

The Alfa unit I suggested is only a high gain wi-fi antenna powered by the USB connection on a PC (maybe a Mac).

Alfa do many devices and so I suggest you have a look at their website for a (maybe) more appropriate (to you) unit.

http://www.alfa.com.tw/

Has anyone tried their Tube U product?

 

[matm]

ok, that's interesting. Did you have it installed with aerial on the arch etc? And another stupid question do you have to run 12/24 volt up to the aerial?

Yep. Antenna on the arch. Think it's just coax to it though. I had it installed by EBY but you can download the manual from the DY website to check. WL510 box in the engine room with cat5 going into the saloon. Very nice install.

 

[matm]

Ps. I use this router. Tiny and powered by micro USB so slimline power plug.

http://www.dabs.com/products/tp-lin...g - Routers and Switches - Routers&origin=pla

 

[RobbieW]

Has anyone tried their Tube U product?

I've just bought one but havent tried it in anger yet. Be a bit careful as there are two different models, the Tube U (G) and Tube U (N). The G works with b/g networks and has a USB port for connection/power (so works with an R36 too). The N works with b/g/n networks and has an ethernet port for connection/power (using PoE, so you need an injector). Edit - seems I'm wrong, both the N and the G are USB devices, its the very similar Solwise device that uses ethernet (which I bought and flashed with Alfa firmware hence the mistake)

One of the attributes of the firmware running in the N is that it remembers networks you've previously connected to, dont know (yet) if it automatically reconnects.

 

[Prhperio]

Has anyone tried their Tube U product?

Yes. Not properly installed yet but bought the TP-Link 15dB aerial, Tube-U(N) and connected to the Alpha R36. Previously in East Cowes the WiFi was pretty shaky and slow but a quick trial a couple of weeks ago with the aerial just propped up on the aft deck seemed to show a huge improvement. Whereas previously even a web site was pretty painful at times, I could stream a youTube video no problem with this set up. I don't think that there was any great change in other parameters (number of other users for instance) so I'm assuming it really is the new set up. All in cost a bit over £100 I think. Not too difficult to set up but was a bit miffed that I had to update the firmware in the R36 to get it to recognise the Tubeu(N) device as the new firmware was dated some time in 2012!

if you don't mind a spot of fiddling it's a cheap but good way to go IMHO and I'm sure you'd get lots of tech help on here as well... (Let me know if you'd like to come and play with our set up in ECM)

 

[RobbieW]

Ps. I use this router. Tiny and powered by micro USB so slimline power plug.

http://www.dabs.com/products/tp-link-150mbps-wireless-n-nano-router-86HZ.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc%20product%20search&utm_content=Q200&utm_campaign=Networking%20-%20Routers%20and%20Switches%20-%20Routers&origin=pla

The MR3020 is very similar in size and capability but adds the ability to plug a range of 3/4G dongles in as well. So you get choose whether the internet connection comes from a mobile supplier or your WiFi extender, the AP connection for on board devices is unchanged.

 

[nigelmercier]

You need add an alfa r36 to make it a hotspot

Nope.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...rs-from-one-wifi-signal&p=4088870#post4088870

 

[SteveSarabande]

Nope.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...rs-from-one-wifi-signal&p=4088870#post4088870

Ok so you can use a pc instead of a router, but running a pc just to extend the wifi is a little wastefull. The router uses less power. Unless you are using the pc for other functions on board the router is smaller and more energy efficient.

 

[Simon391088]

Hi,

I've been looking into this too...
The Ubiquiti bullet is a tech bit of kit to leave out in the rain. Is it really properly weatherproof? I read somewhere that you should use waterproof tape between it and the antenna to prevent water ingress. In addition it doesn't seem to have a bracket. It looks like you fix the antenna to a rail somewhere and the bullet hangs off the bottom? And as has been said - I think you need a router as well to provide a hot spot for all those on board isn't there one with this built in?

From my research it looks like you either have to buy components yourself and cobble something together, or you pay another company a huge amount more to do this for you - usually with the same or similar components.

Simon

 

[Powersalt]

IT would seem there are a number of complete kit options on the market but frpm the replies here not many seem to be installed ( IF ANY).

Having asked the question on here I think I am more confused than I was before except:

It would seem cat 5 cable is a better option to usb.

The bullet gives far better service.
And the access software can make a big difference to ease of use.

Take a look at the web site "wi fi on board".

WHat do you think of that bit of kit?

 

[RobbieW]

IT would seem there are a number of complete kit options on the market but frpm the replies here not many seem to be installed ( IF ANY).

Having asked the question on here I think I am more confused than I was before except:

It would seem cat 5 cable is a better option to usb.

The bullet gives far better service.
And the access software can make a big difference to ease of use.

Take a look at the web site "wi fi on board".

WHat do you think of that bit of kit?

That seems a fair summary, some will argue the toss over USB/cat 5/low loss signal cable for a long run. One thing its worth asking the 'packagers' is what improvements have been made to the usability of the software in their solution. The solution sold by the Exmoor company, linked above, seems to use what I'd recognise as the RogueWave product. That has been strongly recommended on PANBO; partly because it worked but mainly because the package software had been reworked to take some of the 'tech' out of it. Where that has been done, some of the pricing will reflect the effort going into that software and the ongoing support provided.

 

[RobbieW]

I've just bought one but havent tried it in anger yet. Be a bit careful as there are two different models, the Tube U (G) and Tube U (N). The G works with b/g networks and has a USB port for connection/power (so works with an R36 too). The N works with b/g/n networks and has an ethernet port for connection/power (using PoE, so you need an injector). Edit - seems I'm wrong, both the N and the G are USB devices, its the very similar Solwise device that uses ethernet (which I bought and flashed with Alfa firmware hence the mistake)

One of the attributes of the firmware running in the N is that it remembers networks you've previously connected to, dont know (yet) if it automatically reconnects.

Realised the source of my confusion; Alfa also make a Tube2H which has an ethernet interface. This device seems to share the same hardware as the Solwise Patriot 2H and the Ubiquiti Bullet M2. Its this variant that I have, not the U.

 

[Paul_DY]

Hi, Paul here from Digital Yacht.

Followed this thread with interest and felt I ought to explain why our WL510 and new WL450 units are more expensive than the component parts, as has been pointed out by a number of people.

When we first looked at what components to use, we saw a number of problems with the standard Bullet device;
- No IP rating was quoted, simply said "Weather Proof"
- Single Power Over Ethernet (PoE) connector which was a new and confusing technology at the time
- Quoted as 24v supply (max) but on a 24v boat the voltage can go up to 30v or more
- Very "Techie" user interface
- Lack of knowledge of this technology amongst both end users and dealers

We decided to make the "Bullet" more suitable for marine use and supplied it in a "below deck" housing, with 10m of low loss coax cable and a proper marine grade 12dbm omni-directional antenna (with base mount) that could withstand the tough Western European weather conditions. We had seen Bullet's hung off the base of a normal Wi-Fi hotspot type antenna on the stern rails of boats in Florida and the Caribbean and these appeared to last a few seasons, although UV damage to the plastics was evident, but would this solution be good enough for more northern climates ?

We also took care of all the PoE connections inside the "below deck" unit, supplied a network cable to connect to a router or computer and made sure that the product was clearly labelled 12v Only. We also checked the unit with a number of different popular routers and access points and created clear user guides and tech notes on installation and usage.

We have also spent time and effort on making the web interface of these units easier and better documented than the standard Bullet versions and of course we give very good technical support to our customers, even assisting on setting up 3rd party devices (when required).

On the new WL450 we have encapsulated the electronics in a marine grade waterproof antenna housing with a standard 1" x 14tpi thread for fixing to a VHF antenna mount. The unit is supplied with a 10m PoE cable and the same web interface as our WL510.

We realise that some people are skilled enough and have the time to put together a system themselves but we also feel that our pre-configured, "works straight out of the box" solutions are good value and take a lot of the risk and uncertainty out of the purchase and installation.

Hope this clarifies the issue.

 

[Robg71]

Great minds think alike...
I bought a bullet M2 hp titanium... Apparently its more waterproof than waterproof.... Hmmm.
Anyway, i didnt like the fact its not particularly well fitted to antennae mount, doesnt look robust. So i fit my shakespeare wifi antenna to a standard mount, and run a short length of coax from (hidden out of way) bullet to the antenna.
More waterproof, much sturdier industry standard mount... The metre or so of coax will make bugger all difference...

 

[Powersalt]

OK, I think I understand about the bullet and the alternatives but what about the lower end of the market. Wi Wi on board and matis. How do they offer such a product for circa £300 complete? are they the same?

 

[Paul_DY]

I have never looked at the Matis product and could not find it when I Googled "Matis Wi-Fi" but if you look closely at the Wi-Fi Onboard solution, it is an Alfa Networks Tube, a 3rd party router they have stuck their label on and an antenna that is probably no more than 9dBm with normal RG58 (or similar) coax cable which will give quite a lot of attenuation at 2.4GHz.

There is nothing wrong with this solution and it will give pretty good results, if the antenna cable is not too long, but these are all components that you could buy and assemble yourself if you knew where to go. I think in general, you get what you pay for and there are bargains out there but do your homework and I would suggest that the following would be a good checklist for Wi-Fi systems;

1) Antenna - probably the most important component as it is out in all weathers and you really want no less than 9dBm (including cable loss)

2) Cable to antenna - the thicker the better, as attenuation of signal strength at 2.4GHz is significant and every meter of cable (even the thick low loss LMR400 cable) can reduce your signal by 0.25dBm per meter

3) Power connections - most routers are designed for home/office use and need a mains adaptor to provide 5v, 9v or 12v DC to the router. Check if the router can be safely connected directly to the boats 12v battery system or whether additional DC-DC converters/regulators are needed.

4) Network or USB connection - network connected long range Wi-Fi adaptors need no special drivers, work on all operating systems and can have the network cable easily extended up to 50m or more. Cheaper USB connected long range Wi-Fi adaptors must have a driver installed (check compatibility with Windows 8 and Mac OS X Mavericks 10.9) or be connected to a specific router device that has a USB connector and the driver installed, and extending the cable beyond 5m can be problematic, requiring the use of special powered extender cables.

5) Simplicity of operation with good support - you don't want to be spending your precious sailing time poring over manuals and ringing the manufacturer of the Wi-Fi adaptor, so make sure the system is easy to use, that there is plenty of good support info on the manufacturers website and if you do have to contact them that they provide good service.