Why isn't my smartphone charging from the boat's 12v socket?

[Babylon]

Is it because I'm using an old Belkin 500mA USB converter, or is it perhaps a problem with the wiring to the 12v socket?

Even when switched off, my smartphone, a Sony Experia Z3, simply doesn't charge up beyond a few %. (No problems however charging it using 240v at home or with shore-power.)

For what its worth, the socket charges up (eventually) the hand-held VHF, but the previous socket melted when I plugged in a 12v searchlight on a 12v extension lead (to reach out the cockpit).

 

[Momac]

My Samung phone charges perfectly well using the 12 socket on the boat as it does from the car.
I suggest you try using your cable and phone in your car socket . If that works okay it must be the socket on the boat that is at fault.

 

[Babylon]

That's the wierd thing: being 0.5A its slower in the car than the car's normal built-in 2.0A charger, but on the boat it simply struggles to put any volts back into the battery.

I've ordered a higher amperage multi-adaptor for the boat (two 12v outlets plus two 2.4A USB ports), but I can't work out why the boat's socket is delivering below par?

 

[PaulRainbow]

I suspect the USB converter. I've got an adapter in the car with 1a and 2.5a sockets, the 1a socket barely charges the phone. Rather than using convertors and 12v sockets i'm fitting a couple of these on my boat : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281952081086?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Edit... looks like our posts crossed. Perhaps the socket on the boat is also part of the problem, is it wired with heavy enough wiring ?

 

[ex-Gladys]

Samsung chargers are at least 2.1A...

 

[DaveyG]

You could download a free charging app, e.g. galaxy charging, to see what the usb charge system is delivering. I've found that I need 12h to charge at 450ma without display on, and it will power the display and charge the battery at 1200ma.
Both the USB adapters and the leads used will have different characteristics.

 

[NickRobinson]

I've currently got a car battery, meter and 4/5 usb chargers in my kitchen asking the same question!
I've bought a new android phone with a large 6000mAh battery for using on the boat as well and it needs 2A to charge quickly.
Little chargers make phones get warm without charging.
There are lots of potential losses from house batteries to 12v socket and long skinny USB cables leech lots too.

 

[Babylon]

I suspect the USB converter. I've got an adapter in the car with 1a and 2.5a sockets, the 1a socket barely charges the phone. Rather than using convertors and 12v sockets i'm fitting a couple of these on my boat : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281952081086?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

That's actually a jolly good idea. I'm sure there's a significant drop to the existing 12v socket, so it would make a lot of sense to fit these alongside the existing socket, and run dedicated heavy cables to them, perhaps direct from the battery selector switch? The only question is whether this kit would resist the salt-laden air of a boat?

I've currently got a car battery, meter and 4/5 usb chargers in my kitchen asking the same question!
I've bought a new android phone with a large 6000mAh battery for using on the boat as well and it needs 2A to charge quickly.
Little chargers make phones get warm without charging.
There are lots of potential losses from house batteries to 12v socket and long skinny USB cables leech lots too.

Yes to phone getting warm, and yes I've just ordered one of these heavy-duty USB cables: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RL68RNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, its clearly a question of ensuring all three elements of the electrical supply are each of a large enough 'bore'!

 

[Alpha22]

Beware with all these USB charging thingies...... SOME of them spew out so much random RF hash that they will wipe out all long distance VHF reception...... You have been warned!!!! The higher the current .... the more hash!!!

 

[nigelmercier]

Is it because I'm using an old Belkin 500mA USB converter ...

500mA is way below what modern devices require, some need 6x that!

The voltage at the 12V socket is largely irrelevant, so long as it's above about 8V.

 

[PaulRainbow]

That's actually a jolly good idea. I'm sure there's a significant drop to the existing 12v socket, so it would make a lot of sense to fit these alongside the existing socket, and run dedicated heavy cables to them, perhaps direct from the battery selector switch? The only question is whether this kit would resist the salt-laden air of a boat?

I'm fitting mine beside two 12v sockets beneath the chart table. I think they should be ok inside the boat, not too damp or salty there. The standard 12v sockets are fine.

 

[Babylon]

Beware with all these USB charging thingies...... SOME of them spew out so much random RF hash that they will wipe out all long distance VHF reception...... You have been warned!!!! The higher the current .... the more hash!!!

Thanks for the warning - fitting via an ON/OFF switch would sever that problem if it arises.

A question though on RF hash: surely this would only effect the VHF signal at the antenna, which on my boat is atop a 9m high mast, rather than anywhere down the co-ax cable or at the radio itself?

 

[JumbleDuck]

I have a Belkin USB adaptor which plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. It is claimed to be 2.1A, but will not charge my ancient Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tab. It won't charge my ancient Galaxy S phone either - I have never had much success charging either with non-Samsung stuff. The real stuff does some negotiation with the device, I think.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I have a Belkin USB adaptor which plugs into a cigarette lighter socket. It is claimed to be 2.1A, but will not charge my ancient Samsung Galaxy 10.1 tab. It won't charge my ancient Galaxy S phone either - I have never had much success charging either with non-Samsung stuff. The real stuff does some negotiation with the device, I think.

Hmmm, i also have a Galaxy S phone (original flint lock version) and mine charges fine with a cheap Ebay fag lighter adapter, provided it's connected to the higher amperage socket.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331694763614?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[charles_reed]

It might be the USB cable you're using, which only taps into a 0.5amp supply.
Try using a genuine Samsung charger lead. They're wired slightly differently.

 

[ghostlymoron]

My phone doesn't charge up very fast in my car either. The only satisfactory way is a mains 2amp charger. The rate of charge is governed by the difference between socket and phone battery but many sockets are limited to 0.5amps which extend the charging time by a factor of 4. I've no idea of the capacity of a phone battery in ahr.
I've yet to try it on my new socket on the boat which has a dual usb - 0.5/2amps.

 

[Fantasie 19]

Is it because I'm using an old Belkin 500mA USB converter, or is it perhaps a problem with the wiring to the 12v socket?

Even when switched off, my smartphone, a Sony Experia Z3, simply doesn't charge up beyond a few %. (No problems however charging it using 240v at home or with shore-power.)

For what its worth, the socket charges up (eventually) the hand-held VHF, but the previous socket melted when I plugged in a 12v searchlight on a 12v extension lead (to reach out the cockpit).

Have you tried charging the phone when it's switched off?? My HUDL can be temperamental depending on USB source, but charging when it is powered off always seems to work...

 

[GHA]

These are great. See just how many milliamps are actually getting into your device.
Stick usb power meter into ebay

Another slightly related thing is cheapo cables can suck a depressing amount of power between the charge socket and the device.

 

[scottie]

Worth trying airplane mode to shut everything else off

 

[Babylon]

Yup, tried charging when completely shut down, but even then the Sony Experia gained only a few % before the little red charging led shut down!

I've just taken delivery of a short heavy-duty charger lead and a modern 3A USB thing to plug into the 12v socket, which I'll try out on the boat this weekend. If that doesn't do the trick, then the only thing is to wire a new 12v socket direct to the domestic battery isolator switch with cabling of adequate cross-section.