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Ok why can't it be longer than 1 metre?.......
[/ QUOTE ] Well perhaps that was a bit of an oversimplification. Hoses connecting appliances to the supply pipework should be as short as practicable but not exceed 1m.
ISO 10239 does recognise all hose systems but ‘All hose’ systems must fully comply with ISO 10239 as follows:
Each length of hose must be routed from within the cylinder locker or
housing directly to the individual appliance or appliance isolation
valve; and,
Hoses must have permanently attached end fittings, such as swaged
sleeve or sleeve and threaded insert; and,
Hoses must not be routed through an engine compartment; and,
Hoses must be accessible for inspection over their entire length and
connections must be readily accessible; and,
Hose connections must be stress free, i.e. not subjected to tension or
kinking under any conditions of use; and,
Hoses must be supported at least at 1m (39 in) intervals
Note the requirement for permanently attached end fittings, not just clips!
The use of all hose systems is howver not recommended and bearing in mind the limited life of hoses IMHO it is far better to fit a rigid pipe system and be done with it.
quote VicS - "If you are fitting it yourself then make sure you have read section 7 of the Boat safety scheme, Ok it is the scheme that applies to Inland Waterways but it is the only yardstick you have to go by."
para. 7.12 of the BSS says 1m to be max length for flex. hose.and gives the reasons why.
I am an ex-gas-fitter and the BSS looks like a pretty good specification to me. I would use it on my own boat ( if I had one !!)
whoops - I hadn't read all the posts......never mind...
good luck
Because there is more likelyhood of an abrasive break, the longer the bit of hose the higher the risk.
Anyway soft copper will last you the lifetime of the boat.
I also really see no problem in doing your own leak testing its only a U tube.
A CORGI fitter will charge you anything up to £150 just to certify it...... put in a buble leak detector & you have certified it for life.
When i say clips i mean big cable clips to support the brand new hose along the length...i have a wood boat so that's easy..
i would change the nails for copper[of course]
and stainless steel hose clips at the ends
only 2 joints!
test with spit!/soapy water/nose
could use copper pipe but that's adding 2 extra joints to go wrong....
gas turned off after use .i cannot see a problem....only insurance....?
For years caravans and baots have used flexi hose and then along comes BWA ... Corgi gets involved ...
Now BWA is governed by rules ... but as we repeat many times tidal waters are not.
Don't get me wrong - I don't object to increasing safety ... to preventing accidents. But increasing the number of joints in a pipe system and also using pipe that hardens and can fracture over time IMHO is not an increase in safety - it has replaced the old perished hose problem with failing joints and fractured pipes ...
Not so long ago there was a discussion about the requirement to have through bulkhead unions adding even more joints into the system - marvelous.
I have a summer mobile on south coats ... it is inspected every year and it has flexi hose (along hose is BS # stamped) and that goes under the van to a fixed well supported metal pipe that then comes up through the floor to another flexi to connect to cooker / water heater etc. Minimum joints in compliance with safety inspection. Similar was on my last tourer caravan ...
Similar is on my present and preceeding boats ...
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I also really see no problem in doing your own leak testing its only a U tube.
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There are two tests that should be carried out. One is done with air, at a specified pressure above the normal working pressure, and does not include the regulator. the other is of the whole system and is done with gas at a specified pressure below the normal working pressure.
Are you sure you know all the details of these tests, the logic for the pressures used and the time periods of the tests. They are done with a simple manometer but unless you understand what you are doing it is quite possible to get a "good" result when the system should fail. Details are in the Corgi handbook but have appeared on line.
The fitting of a bubble tester is well worth while but it wont actually issue you with a life time certificate!
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Often it only comes up because some surveyors like to be over efficious ...
If BWA / Inland waterways - that is different and you are required to have Certified Installation.
Before anyone shouts me down - I believe in safety - but after some of the crud I've seen ... some of the installations incl. my house done by so-called experts - sorry - I prefer to do it myself and be sure its done well.
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I missed that in your earlier post. Definitely agree especially the bit about installations done by so-called experts. BUT you must not forget that loads of would be DIYers do not have the skills or knowledge to install a safe gas system. Rocket science or not!
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Not so long ago there was a discussion about the requirement to have through bulkhead unions adding even more joints into the system - marvelous
[/ QUOTE ] This one has a long history of mis-quotation. You need to read the BSS to find what is required but bulkhead fittigs are rarely needed. Protecting the pipe from chafe is all that is usually necessary. Anyway even when you do use a bulkhead fitting (exiting the gas locker to ensure a gas tight exit for example) it can be bored through to remove the "land" in the cenre and an uncut pipe threaded through it to avoid extra joints!
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the surveyor IS WORKING & PAID 4 YOU not the Ins Co
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In theory you are right but, how many of us would get a survey every five years if it was not for the ins. co. insisting on it. They say we pay /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
For most people strict compliance with BSS isn't needed anyway. For example the British Waterways Scotland don't need the certificate unless you're in their waterway for an extended period.