While im asking questions - best product to cut/polish faded gel coat

Whitelighter

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One of my summer jobs is to cut/polish Seralia's superstructure and deck. Lots of fiddly areas so probably will be done by hand (I actually find this sort of thing quite relaxing if not under time pressure).

What is the current concensus on best products to cut/cut&polish/polish?

Also, is there a custting product that wioll take scrtaches out of a perspex screen? The flybridge wind deflector could use a little TLC
 
You'll be there all day if you do it by hand..

Buy a DAS-6 PRO.

If you're interested there's a good (car-based) detailing document here.

I have used Chemical Guys, Farecla, Meguiars, 3M and AutoSmart products on various boats. AutoSmart EVO 3 is easy to use if you're new to machine polishing. I prefer 3M Imperial Cutting Compound.
 
On Rogue in 2006, 2007 and 2009, for the hull and decks, I used T Cut by hand. Took me 2 whole days to cut, polish, and wax, the hull. The decks I did over a long period at my leisure.
This was a Moody 44 so probably much less area than your boat but, if therapy is the order of the day ........

I'm now a fan of Meguiars and have also bought their polishing machine so, if I get around to a polish and wax this year, I'll be using their stuff and the polisher on the bigger expanses.
 
Thanks all.

I agree for the topsides a machine it the way to go, but Im quite happy to spend 3 or 4 days slwoly doing the superstructure.

It definitly needs cut first though - so is T cut the best option? Then follow up with a polish. Does Maguiers work by hand?
 
For lightly oxidised or lightly scratched GRP for hand polishing try Peek Polish. For canopy windows and perspex try Meguiars PlastX.
 
I have a 1980 boat that until 6 years ago spent all its life in Ibiza, the hull is an olive colour which was badly faded, I did two coats of aqua buff 2000 followed by a few coats of silver yak (as recommended on here) and the results were brilliant, that was three years ago and just a coat of yak at the beginning and end of season has kept it's shine amazingly. Cutting compound is on eBay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquabuff-...hash=item4abb6f63a1:m:mNXb8B1wDN-oUhslbzl_sLA
 
The 3M series of perfect it/ fast cut /finesse products. Done by machine - much better than doing it by hand

Agreed. The "fast cut plus" with the green top is particularly effective, as it claims to break down into smaller grit size during cutting so does most of the job in one application. It's quite pricey, but saves a lot of elbow grease. A second treatment with Extra fine plus (yellow top) gives a like new finish.

I'm less convinced about the paste wax, but it is quick and easy to apply so I've stuck with it.

Definitely better to use a machine, except for the wax which is wipe on, wipe off.
 
Another vote for the 3M products ... comprehensive instructions available on the web, progressive approach to abrasion/cutting, very easy to use with great results and available everywhere. Last year I invested in a Flex XC3401 polisher and I'm very happy with it.
 
I wouldn't use T-Cut ever on anything boat related.

The 3M Perfect It range is silica based so you should really wear a mask for prolonged use. You'll end up using more by hand as the cloth will absorb most of it - a pad and machine polisher really is the way to go. I also use a 77mm DA polisher from Mirka but it runs off of compressor. You can buy a 240v / 24v version now though - it's great for all the hard to reach areas.

A 1l bottle of Imperial Compund was about £40 last time I checked - if you're going to do it by hand I suggest you go for Farecla G3 or AutoSmart Evo-3.
 
One of those 1 litre (approx.) bottles of the fast cut plus and the fine/finesse will be more than enough. About £40-50/bottle afaik (to non board members!)
 
Just remember that when you take the gell off, you cant add it back, so start with something super mild and get agressive if need be.
3m have the most incompressible web page and product line, but they used to do a 2.5 kg tub of polish compound,and the finesse it 2
Try web page 3m direct or something

Free delivery of you spend enough.
But i d get a proper polisher..makita, rules etc,and get plenty of 3m white and or yellow mop heads
... The actual polish and compound
Is almostt inconsequential compared to the rest of the gear!
The type of wool mop really dictates what is going to happen...
 
I wouldn't worry about taking off too much gelcoat by machine polishing - it's much thicker than a painted finish. I regularly sand gelcoat to blend in repairs with 320 grit on a DA up to 1500 and then polish it. Polish compunds are typically around 10,000 'grit'.

3M woolpads need to be on a rotary and that's going to be too big physically and daunting for someone who hasn't machine polished before. 6" foam pads on a DA are much easier to work with and I have to disagree about product being almost inconsequential. Matching the product to pad is the key - but again for a beginner I wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
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