Which Seacock To Buy!

Zagato

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For peace of mind I am going to replace my cockpit drain sea-cocks - Can anyone suggest the right type at a good price, do they come with skin fittings?

Fairly straight forward to fit them I presume with a splurge of Silkafex :confused:
 
DZR from a.s.a.p. supplies

+1.

I recently enquired to ASAP and they replied that their bronze seacocks have chrome plated brass balls and they have no seacocks with bronze balls at all. So ISTM the best from ASAP is their DZR types which have DZR balls.

Boo2
 
Forespar Marelon glass reinforced plastic ones

http://www.force4.co.uk/9381/Forespar-Marelon-Plastic-Seacocks.html

For real peace of mind fit those and never have to worry about corrosion again.

Thanks VicS, I'd be interested to go down this route especially as Cornish Crabbers now use plastic sea-cocks (probably these - I'll find out!).

Sorry Boo2 I must be over simplifying this as they wouldn't use chrome if it didn't work but hardened chrome swivel ball joints and ordinary bright work on old cars never mixed well with salty roads :eek: I will look at ASAP DZR but like the sound of plastic ones - I wonder why everyone isn't using plastic, sounds to be a very good solution :confused:
 
Forespar Marelon glass reinforced plastic ones

http://www.force4.co.uk/9381/Forespar-Marelon-Plastic-Seacocks.html

For real peace of mind fit those and never have to worry about corrosion again.

Please forgive the drift.

This may, or may not, be a stupid ignorant question, but:-
"Can Marelon/plastic seacocks be used for exhaust outlets?"

I need to replace a badly corroded and jammed gate-valve type and wondered if this is a good place to start with replacing all my seacocks (eventually)?

Polite and sensible answers only - it's too near Christmas and hence hyper-grandchildren for painful comments!
 
I dont know about Marelon specifically but Vetus do offer glass reinforced plastic exhaust outlets.
Maybe a look at Forespar's website would be a good idea.

The exhaust system probably already contains plastic components eg water trap, muffler or swan neck.

OTOH if the exhaust outlet is above water is there any reason not to use a metal outlet?
 
I dont know about Marelon specifically but Vetus do offer glass reinforced plastic exhaust outlets.
Maybe a look at Forespar's website would be a good idea.

The exhaust system probably already contains plastic components eg water trap, muffler or swan neck.

OTOH if the exhaust outlet is above water is there any reason not to use a metal outlet?

And the Vetus exhaust outlet is infact rubber.
 
Thanks VicS, I'd be interested to go down this route especially as Cornish Crabbers now use plastic sea-cocks (probably these - I'll find out!).

Sorry Boo2 I must be over simplifying this as they wouldn't use chrome if it didn't work but hardened chrome swivel ball joints and ordinary bright work on old cars never mixed well with salty roads :eek: I will look at ASAP DZR but like the sound of plastic ones - I wonder why everyone isn't using plastic, sounds to be a very good solution :confused:

Because the "problems" with bronze/DZR are overrated. "Plastic" valves have their place in metal hulls, but they are relatively expensive and physically bulkier and offer no real advantages in a GRP boat. There is a certain amount of fashion in this as well. Plastic valves are made (mostly) in the USA and have a prescence in the market place. Bronze are also common in the US, but more expensive than plastic. DZR not that common - probably because it offers few advantages over the well established plastic ones!
 
Please forgive the drift.

This may, or may not, be a stupid ignorant question, but:-
"Can Marelon/plastic seacocks be used for exhaust outlets?"

I need to replace a badly corroded and jammed gate-valve type and wondered if this is a good place to start with replacing all my seacocks (eventually)?

Polite and sensible answers only - it's too near Christmas and hence hyper-grandchildren for painful comments!

Should not be a problem as the temperature of the water/gas by the time it gets there is lowered.

However, it does beg the question as to why you want a valve there anyway? Used to be common in the past before the advent of exhaust water traps and swan necks (both of which are commonly plastic) but rarely fitted now.
 
However, it does beg the question as to why you want a valve there anyway? Used to be common in the past before the advent of exhaust water traps and swan necks (both of which are commonly plastic) but rarely fitted now.

Still potentially useful, though. In some conditions there's a certain comfort to be gained from knowing that the only open hole in your hull is the companionway hatch. I wouldn't break into an existing exhaust to add a valve, but if I was renewing the system I'd probably at least consider it.

Pete
 
Should not be a problem as the temperature of the water/gas by the time it gets there is lowered.

However, it does beg the question as to why you want a valve there anyway? Used to be common in the past before the advent of exhaust water traps and swan necks (both of which are commonly plastic) but rarely fitted now.

Quote:- Still potentially useful, though. In some conditions there's a certain comfort to be gained from knowing that the only open hole in your hull is the companionway hatch. I wouldn't break into an existing exhaust to add a valve, but if I was renewing the system I'd probably at least consider it.

Pete


Thanks to you both. An alternative way of looking at the problem. I reckon I'm ok with the existing valve as long as it doesn't get knocked off, or the hose perish. At least that gives my wallet breathing space!
 
There are several types. There are rubber ones but one type is described as "made from glass filled reinforced synthetic material"

Yes and I think Vetus also do Stainless.

Mine is rubber and is the exhaust hose. I also have a plastic (not GRP) muffler but my water lock I made of stainless as I could do that cheaper that buying a plastic Vetus one local.
 
Quote:- Still potentially useful, though. In some conditions there's a certain comfort to be gained from knowing that the only open hole in your hull is the companionway hatch. I wouldn't break into an existing exhaust to add a valve, but if I was renewing the system I'd probably at least consider it.

Pete


Thanks to you both. An alternative way of looking at the problem. I reckon I'm ok with the existing valve as long as it doesn't get knocked off, or the hose perish. At least that gives my wallet breathing space!

Presumably if it is jammed it is in the open position, so useless anyway! No different from not having one at all! One thing I forgot to mention is that most modern exhausts are 45mm diameter or upwards, so massive valve required.
 
most modern exhausts are 45mm diameter or upwards, so massive valve required.

Yes - though I guess the crucial question is whether it would be OK in much cheaper brass. Not below the waterline, and while it does have seawater passing through that's only for the one or two hundred hours a year that the motor is running, so I'd be inclined to say it would.

Pete
 
Yes - though I guess the crucial question is whether it would be OK in much cheaper brass. Not below the waterline, and while it does have seawater passing through that's only for the one or two hundred hours a year that the motor is running, so I'd be inclined to say it would.

Pete

Yes, think brass would be OK, but still would not bother if there was a good swan neck and a water trap. Valves to close off exhaust date from the days when traps and swan necks were not necessarily used and exhaust bores for petrol and old style diesel engines were much smaller bore.
 
Yes, think brass would be OK, but still would not bother if there was a good swan neck and a water trap. Valves to close off exhaust date from the days when traps and swan necks were not necessarily used and exhaust bores for petrol and old style diesel engines were much smaller bore.

Well, this person seems to consider them worthwhile even in a newish 47-footer.

Certainly agree that a valve is not necessary equipment, but closing the outlet in rough weather is perhaps a way of putting a few more points into your black box, so including the facility to do so has some value.

Pete
 
Yes, think brass would be OK, but still would not bother if there was a good swan neck and a water trap. Valves to close off exhaust date from the days when traps and swan necks were not necessarily used and exhaust bores for petrol and old style diesel engines were much smaller bore.

Interesting.
Having both is "belt and braces", probably OTT. But it's still a hole in the hull:(, albeit usually above the waterline.
 
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